Power problems! Please help!

[Dfucile]

So I just got a 1999 Coleman Bayside. I’m in the process of making sure everything is working prior to me taking her out for the first time.
One of the problems I am facing is that when I am plugged in to shore power, my lights in the camper are not working. Nor is the water pump. The outlets all have power, just no overhead lights. My galley kill switch is destroyed, however when I test the voltage at the two wires, I am getting 0.000v. Should this not be reading close to 120v? I also do not have a light on my gas detector. All fuses are good and no issues with the breakers.
I do not have a battery connected, but should that even matter? My friends Westlake, same year, does not require a battery to run his lights.
Can somebody please help?

 

[JayArr]

Is your battery converter getting 120VAC? It should supply 12VDC to the camper when plugged into shore power but it looks like it isn't. Find it and confirm it's getting power, if it isn't getting 120VAC then find out why and if it is getting 120VAC and there is no 12VDC coming out of it then replace it.

 

[Dfucile]

Thank you. Looks like I’m going to have to dig tomorrow to find this to inspect it. I’ll let you know what I find.

 

[Rene T]

Do you know where the battery is suppose to go? If you do there should be battery cables there. While plugged into shore power, measure the DC voltage at those cables.
When you find the converter find the brand and model number and post it here.
The converter may have fuses built into it to protect it in case someone connects the battery cables to the posts wrong. Check for fuses on the converter itself.

 

[John From Detroit]

The lights, water pump, control power for Fridge, water heater and AC is all 12 volt
120 volt ---- Converter----Main fuse panel---switch----Battery
Note there are fuses on the converter (on mine they were around back where you could not see them unless you pulled the beast. On many they are 30 amp fuses on the right side of the fuse panel (When the converter is behind the panel)
There may or rather should be a circuit breaker or fuse between battery and switch or switch and fuse panel

Lights, Water pump et-al connect to fuse panel

 

[Dfucile]

The lights, water pump, control power for Fridge, water heater and AC is all 12 volt
120 volt ---- Converter----Main fuse panel---switch----Battery
Note there are fuses on the converter (on mine they were around back where you could not see them unless you pulled the beast. On many they are 30 amp fuses on the right side of the fuse panel (When the converter is behind the panel)
There may or rather should be a circuit breaker or fuse between battery and switch or switch and fuse panel

Lights, Water pump et-al connect to fuse panel

Thank you. Yes the battery mounts on the tongue. I see the two prong plug but do not have the harness (will be ordered). I will check the voltage to that plug though.

I checked all the fuses on the front of the converter and they all do not look as though they are blown (3 or 4 15amp fuses and 1 30 amp fuse). There’s also to 15amp breakers that both were in the on position. However I will pull the converter out and check the back of it also to see if there are any fuses or maybe even some loose wires.

I appreciate your suggestion and will let you know what I find.

 

[Rene T]

Thank you. Yes the battery mounts on the tongue. I see the two prong plug but do not have the harness (will be ordered). I will check the voltage to that plug though.

Can you post a picture of that two prong plug you are talking about. I have no idea what it may be. It may be a spot for a fuse.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

As John described, the 120v power to your trailer feeds the power center (breaker panel) with 120vac and a converter/charger converts that to 12vdc to charge the battery and supply power to lights, water pump, etc. as long as shore power is present. If your shore power is showing zero volts at the power center (you can measure at the 30A circuit breaker), then the converter can't run and you have no power except battery. And the battery soon goes dead.

I don't know what two-prong plug you refer to, but it's probably a 12vdc feeder, maybe for battery charging or maybe something else. A picture would help us understand.

 

[John From Detroit]

Also if you provide the make/model of the converter it helps
As for fuses. They may look good but be defective (As opposed to blown) i've seen it happen. For most of them a test light works well (the 30 amp may need an ohmmeter)

Test light is like an ice pick, With a wire out the handle. Clip the clip to a known good ground (The "Green/Bare wire bus is a good ground) Probe the little sqare windows in blade fuses or both ends of the fuse in a glass Tubular fuse (3ag type) BRIGHT BRIGHT = GOOD. DARK DARK - no 12 volt BRIGHT DARK (or the other way around) Bad.. The 30 amp may have power from teh converter on one end and the battery on the other. so it needs to be removed and metered.

 

[Dfucile]

Can you post a picture of that two prong plug you are talking about. I have no idea what it may be. It may be a spot for a fuse.

This is what the battery harness plugs into so that the battery can charge off of shore power….. I’m guessing?

 

[Dfucile]

Also if you provide the make/model of the converter it helps
As for fuses. They may look good but be defective (As opposed to blown) i've seen it happen. For most of them a test light works well (the 30 amp may need an ohmmeter)

Test light is like an ice pick, With a wire out the handle. Clip the clip to a known good ground (The "Green/Bare wire bus is a good ground) Probe the little sqare windows in blade fuses or both ends of the fuse in a glass Tubular fuse (3ag type) BRIGHT BRIGHT = GOOD. DARK DARK - no 12 volt BRIGHT DARK (or the other way around) Bad.. The 30 amp may have power from teh converter on one end and the battery on the other. so it needs to be removed and metered.

So I unplugged the harness from the back of the converter. And I took my voltmeter to each lead for 12v circuits and I am getting no power to any of the terminals. I am guessing this means the converter is bad and not doing it’s job.
The fuses all test out and but when I take my voltmeter to test the fuse ports, I am also getting no power. Again, leading me to believe that I have a power converter that is no good.
I am also getting no power out to the two prong battery connection that should be reading 12 volts also.

 

[JayArr]

Do you have power going into the converter? Don't assume anything.

 

[Dfucile]

Do you have power going into the converter? Don't assume anything.

Yes. Power is going to the converter.

 

[John From Detroit]

A no output does not always indicate a bad converter. Some of them refuse to output without a battery present or so I am told (though why they would do that I do not know).

My suggestion is to replace teh converter. if it's attached to the fuse/breaker panel Progressive Dynamics 9600
If it's stand alone 9200
Match the last two digits to the model of your existing converter as close as you can For example a xx30 would get an XX45 (The smallest made if I'm not mistaken) an xx60 and xx60

 

[Jkoht]

Running a quick Google search shows multiple forum entries about failure with the Magnetek 6720 converter. I'd say it's time for a replacement.

 

[uchu]

Wondering if the OP confirmed if the converter was malfunctioning or not...

 

[Dfucile]

Wondering if the OP confirmed if the converter was malfunctioning or not...

The converter is not functioning. Needs to be replaced.