Powering an RV Refrigerator From the Pedestal to Avoid Breaker Trips

[oldryder1]

the breaker pops because some other load was added while the 30a circuit is powering the AC close to its load limit. (maybe also on a 50a. feed but I don't know that.) Using the microwave or even a coffee pot can cause the breaker to trip.

Another load that comes and goes automatically is the reefer. If the breaker is near its limit and the reefer starts this can cause the breaker to trip for what seems to be no reason.

Many reefers (maybe all) have an outside access panel where the reefer is plugged into a standard outlet. The "hack" is to open the outside access hatch for the reefer, unplug the reefer, and then feed it with an extension cord plugged into the 120v outlet in the power pedestal. Easy fix.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Or run it on LP gas while you are using the A/C. Fridges use very little gas.

Not trying to downplay what you suggest. If you are in a campground for several days, your suggestion is worth going to the trouble to dig out the 14 gauge extension cord I carry, but that also means leaving the outside access open to bugs and birds.

I manage my loads when on shore power by using or keeping the water heater off unless I need it, then choosing gas or electric based on what other loads are on. Fridge also, gas if needed.

I am only connected to shore power about half the time, I am usually in campgrounds without power.

Charles

 

[DutchmenSport]

Every since our original pop-up, we've been using additional extension cords with the camper. As you stated, any extra amp draw and the main breaker will pop. Plug in an electric skillet or an electric griddle, or a toaster, or sometimes, even a coffee pot and .... POP!

I always have a 30 foot heavy duty extension cord plugged into the 15/20 amp socket at the power pole. Mostly, it's run to the front of the camper for cooking outside, especially those electric griddles and electric frying pans.

Granted my camper is a 50 amp, That translates to a LOT of electricity that can be used at any one time. BUT, after the 2 main 50-amp breakers, they are sub divided into 15 and 20 amp on each circuit throught the camper. The water heater (gas/electric) is on a circuit all by itself (15 amps). The washing machine and dryer are on a separate 20 amp circuit only. So so on.

So, if plugging in an appliance into a wall socket, it's possible to max out that circuit and cause the breaker to pop! No, not the main 50 amp, but the lesser 15-20 amp one. (and I've done this many, many times!).... when running an electric griddle AND an electric skillet inside the camper at the kitchen counter, one is plugged into the camper wall outlet, the other is ALWAYS plugged into that separate 50 foot extension cord, stuck through the door, across the floor and up to the counter.

My refrigerator (residential) is on a separate line also, but also connected to the inverter.

Your recommendation for running a separate electric extension cord is right spot-dead-on good advise!

 

[Kirk]

Using the microwave or even a coffee pot can cause the breaker to trip.

Both of those are fairly large electrical loads. A small microwave will draw between 5 - 7a, while larger ones use 7-10a. Most coffee pots draw at least 5a and often more. The Keurig will need between 8-15a. A typical RV refrigerator operating on 120V will use 2-3a.

 

[bigbAZ]

Fortunately I'm able to run the microwave or the electric water heater element when the AC is running. (They are both on the same circuit with an automatic energy selection switch which prevents them from operating simultaneously, the microwave has priority.) This is on a 30 amp.

I haven't seen an RV AC unit draw more than 15-18 amps unless it is getting low voltage, you may have another issue. One thing to avoid is prolonged current draw over 80% (24 amps). Intermittent use over 24 amps should not affect a system where everything is in order.

 

[Kirk]

I haven't seen an RV AC unit draw more than 15-18 amps unless it is getting low voltage, you may have another issue. One thing to avoid is prolonged current draw over 80% (24 amps). Intermittent use over 24 amps should not affect a system where everything is in order.

Most standard RV air conditioners, such as 13,500–15,000 BTU units from Dometic or Coleman, draw 12–16 amps continuously at 120 volts while operating under normal conditions. A 30‑amp circuit breaker is rated to trip at 30 amps, but for continuous loads (3 hours or more), the National Electrical Code limits the maximum current to 80% of the breaker rating for safety.

 

[bigbAZ]

Most standard RV air conditioners, such as 13,500–15,000 BTU units from Dometic or Coleman, draw 12–16 amps continuously at 120 volts while operating under normal conditions. A 30‑amp circuit breaker is rated to trip at 30 amps, but for continuous loads (3 hours or more), the National Electrical Code limits the maximum current to 80% of the breaker rating for safety.

Yep agreed, but that leaves plenty of room to run a microwave or a water heater at the same time. Neither are continuous loads. (for that matter NEC does not consider any thermostatically controlled load as continuous). If the OP is tripping a 30 amp main with 1 AC and a fridge, or 1 AC and a microwave, something else is going on. Maybe his converter/charger is maxed out or maybe the supply voltage is low, or the pedestal breaker is weak.

 

[John From Detroit]

Most standard RV air conditioners, such as 13,500–15,000 BTU units from Dometic or Coleman, draw 12–16 amps continuously at 120 volts while operating under normal conditions.

100% correct but some ... Well if the condenser (the outside coils) are "Dirty" or clogged so air flow can not flow properly they heat up up up and as they heat up the compressor has to work harder harder harder and as it works harder it draws more and more current. And pop goes the breaker.
(In my case the 20 amp branch breaker)

Cleaning may help.. since I had a coleman fan on that unit (Air excel makes Coleman) and since Coleman's suck (on the one that had low air the original fan failed, it was a blower but using the only fan I could get, a Coleman type, it became a sucker) A mist of water kept it cool enough to hang in there even on the hottest days. )

One of the many joys of RV life.. Fixing stuff or making it work despite issues.

Oh it cooled better with a mist too but that's another issue. How to mist it.. I leave that to you .

 

[CharlesinGA]

Fortunately I'm able to run the microwave or the electric water heater element when the AC is running. (They are both on the same circuit with an automatic energy selection switch which prevents them from operating simultaneously, the microwave has priority.) This is on a 30 amp.

Same here. I installed one after I discovered the factory put the water heater on a general purpose outlet circuit. Combined the WH with the microwave circuit, giving the MW priority (they don't run for a long time anyhow).

Charles

 

[RayIN]

Yep, a priority switch has been used by the RV industry for many decades. My old 1976 allegro class A MH used one (3-way switch) to control a 2nd air conditioner, the microwave oven and absorption refrigerator. Water heater was LP only.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

Many reefers (maybe all) have an outside access panel where the reefer is plugged into a standard outlet

I think the only fridges with outside access panels are typical RV absorption fridges. The residential fridge in my motorhome doesn't have a panel, which looks the same on all rigs, and I don't think 12V fridges will have one either.

 

[rpnelson]

the breaker pops because some other load was added while the 30a circuit is powering the AC close to its load limit. (maybe also on a 50a. feed but I don't know that.) Using the microwave or even a coffee pot can cause the breaker to trip.

Another load that comes and goes automatically is the reefer. If the breaker is near its limit and the reefer starts this can cause the breaker to trip for what seems to be no reason.

Many reefers (maybe all) have an outside access panel where the reefer is plugged into a standard outlet. The "hack" is to open the outside access hatch for the reefer, unplug the reefer, and then feed it with an extension cord plugged into the 120v outlet in the power pedestal. Easy fix.

Yes, units with 30 amp power supplies and lots of electrical appliances will have these issues. Another thing to consider is that if the camper has some years on it the main breaker (30 amp) may be getting weak and tripping sooner than it should. I have had to replace these several times on 2 or 3 campers over the years. When I replaced them the tripping stopped but you still have to manage the load and not turn on too many appliances at the same time.

 

[canam175]

the breaker pops because some other load was added while the 30a circuit is powering the AC close to its load limit. (maybe also on a 50a. feed but I don't know that.) Using the microwave or even a coffee pot can cause the breaker to trip.

Another load that comes and goes automatically is the reefer. If the breaker is near its limit and the reefer starts this can cause the breaker to trip for what seems to be no reason.

Many reefers (maybe all) have an outside access panel where the reefer is plugged into a standard outlet. The "hack" is to open the outside access hatch for the reefer, unplug the reefer, and then feed it with an extension cord plugged into the 120v outlet in the power pedestal. Easy fix.

Try checking, if you can, your current load on that circuit breaker when it trips, unfortunately circuit breaks are life limited and will trip at lower current loads as they get older. I recently was returning from a trip to Florida and running the AC on the generator when the circuit breaker tripped several times, replaced the breaker and no reoccurrence of the tripping.