Preparing to re-coat rubber roof- a couple more questions

[Stella]

Hi Everyone!

I have finally saved up enough to buy roof coating for my rubber roof.

Total budget is $500 which also includes one replacement AC Shroud.
My head is spinning at the choices. After reading many threads here I am leaning toward this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KA561K/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A8SZNUTSXXYGD

It seems to be for EPDM roofs- I have read several that are cheaper that do not mention epdm so I am leery.

Questions:

1. Opinions on the product above? Any other suggestions?

2. Do I need "lap sealant"? If so what for and roughly how much?

3. Should I also apply this to the roof of the slide out?

Any input at all is very welcome- and as usual thanks a million guys. You have truly made RVing a fun and exciting get away!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Liquid Roof is a well known brand, so ought to be a safe choice.

Lap sealant is used around joints, wherever something protrudes through the roof or the rubber sheeting meets the sidewalls and front & rear caps.  You should make sure the joints are all clean and the caulk in good condition before you apply the Liquid Roof, cause it will coat over it and it is difficult to tell the condition of the caulk afterwards. Besides, you don't want to scrape up your nice new coating to repair a leaky seam!

It may be that a coating of liquid epdm over old caulk will seal a leaky joint, but that's a chancy affair. Better to fix the caulk first and be sure.

Application to slide out: hard to answer. What is the material of the slide top and what condition? It's a separate decision from the main roof, but evaluated in the same way.

 

[Just Lou]

• Pro Guard makes very good products
• You won't know if you need any lap sealant (or how much) until you remove your shrouds and vent covers.  Use it to repair any questionable areas around roof openings.
• Don't  coat your slide top unless it is also EPDM.  If it's just metal, as I suspect, it would mess up your seals beyond repair.
• Use the Pro Guard 'Liquid Rubber' instead of the 'Liquid Roof'.  It's the same product, only cheaper.

Have you checked with Gulf Stream to ask if your EPDM roof was made by Alpha Systems?  If it is an Alpha roof, you will need to use the Pro Guard Primer prior to the coating, and that would add more work and expense. 

 

[Stella]

Thanks Gary and Lou.  I will check with Gulf Stream to see who made my roof: if I am going to do this job I want to do it RIGHT.

Makes sense about the slide. It has a shade that rolls out with it (standard for slides I suppose) and I will have to peek under it. But it makes sense to think that, since it is protected from the elements and sun most of the time, that it is fine.

I appreciate the responses! thanks!

 

[quailchaser]

If you by chance have the manuals that came with the unit...I know, long shot...but, it will have who's roof was used.  Off hand I can't remember who was on our choachman, but it was not one of the Alphas. 

I have sitting in the garage; 6 gallons of the liquid roof, 50' x 40" eternal bond tape, 3 or 4 tubes of lap sealer, and bunch of scrappers.  I still need the AC gasked. 

I'm about two weeks behind as the weather was not cooperating and then the fridge fried.  Fried twice.  Once on after 14YEARS.  Got reman.  3day install, worked for 11 days.  Replaced with a New cooling unit.  Seems to be going well now.

 

[PatrioticStabilist]

I don't know if you want to but we took everything off the roof before coating it.  Then I put new Maxx Airs, vents, and everything up top.  It's a lot of work so didn't want to be cutting out old rotten skylights and stuff later.  And that was a ton of work getting all that stuff off but well worth it in my opinion.

 

[DownbytheRiver]

I'm not sure if this is the best place for this question, but it seemed to follow the thread:

I am re-doing my roof and I purchased some Plas-T-Cote elixr.  It is similar to liquid roof, especially for the purposes of this thread. 

Is one supposed to remove everything down to the plywood and then apply the paint, or is it meant to go on over the current EPDM roof?  I have peeled down some areas to the original rubber roof and it is in pieces- badly worn beyond repair.  I wasn't sure if there is such a thing as "too damaged for the liquid roof/plas-t-cote options to really work" and if the rubber roof needs to be there to create a seal or something.  If I strip down tot he plywood, replace what is needed, then add this paint, will it work?

a new piece of rubber will be about $700 not including additional supplies.  I want to know if I can safely and adequately spend half of that on a "paint-on" rubber roof, Eternabond, etc.

Many thanks for advice.

 

[Alfa38User]

Unless is is specifically stated that this product can be used over wood or conversely, is to be used over EPDM, then you have your answer. The way I see it, if the EPDM material is that bad, it should be replaced. The balance of the roof can't be too far behind. If it is to be replaced then there is likely no need for the liquid product.

That said, I saw nowhere on their site that it was for use over an EPDM roof but I did find one place where it was said to be for aluminum and galvanized roofs and NOT for rubber roofs here: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-roofs/elixir-plas-t-cote.htm

 

[DownbytheRiver]

Thanks Alfa, but I actually got the product for rubber roof, seen here:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-roofs/40119.htm

 

[Just Lou]

The product information says coverage is 200 sqft per gallon, that indicates a very thin coating.  The product is obviously meant for a roof in good condition.

It sounds like you need some substantial rubber membrane repair or replacement.  If you replaced it all, you wouldn't need to coat it, but if you are talking patching with membrane or Eternabond tape, then a product like ProGuard "Liquid Rubber" or "Liquid Roof" should be used to coat the entire roof.

 

[DownbytheRiver]

good point Lou,
  Judging from what I am hearing, my rubber is in bad enough shape that I will have to replace it, therefore coating will not be necessary. 

 

[Stella]

Just in case anyone else needs information on manufacturers of Gulf Stream products here is a great link:

http://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/customer-service-numbers.htm

I soon will know if my roof is ALPHA and will proceed with my order.

 

[quailchaser]

Mostly finished! ;D

The prep work took me 5 days at about 3-4 hours per day.  I removed all the Dicor around each opening.  Had to wash the roof twice with simple green.  My son washed about 3/4 the roof the first time...before I fixed the leaks.  He had to be carfull and use towels to block running water away from the cuts and open vents.  There were around 8 places where the roof had tears or cuts.  One vent hole had been cut past the opening and outside the vent covered area.  Great install from the factory...Not.  I used EDPM rubber patch as pictured below to cover all the penetrations.  I used butyl tape and fiber to fix the cut on the vent as I wanted it to be flush.  Replaced one vent, both kitchen and bath vent pipe covers, and the refer vent.  Once all these were replaced and all the cuts and tears covered with patches, I washed the roof again.  No leaks even with all the dicor gone!!!! 

Started on the liquid roof at 10:30am and finished at 2:30pm.  Hands, knees, clothes, shoes sacrificed.  This is a very messy project.  But, I spent less than $600 so far.  Haven't decided whether to use dicor or eternabond tape over the vents and caps.  I'll decide that next week when the roof is all cured.

Some notes of usefullness ;D ;D
Liquid roof flows better at 75 degrees than 88 degrees plus direct sun overhead.
Using a roofing big Squeegee from Home Depot is unwieldy.  A smaller had squeegee would have been much better.
Don't paint yourself into a corner....Ha ha ha ha. 
I'm still not sure which was worse for me.  The front slope or the rear rack.  Under the TV antenna sucked too.

Overall, I'm really happy with the project. 

 

[Just Lou]

Pictures please........

 

[quailchaser]

Pictures please........

Sorry.  Ran out of daylight.  I'm terrible at documenting projects.  I tend to get done and then remember to take some photo's.  That being said, I have no before photos...or during photos...

I'll take better ones tomorrow.

 

[quailchaser]

Had to get the other camera as the photo's above are poor.  This should be better.  First photo is of one of the large patches.  The rubber patch material was great to work with.  They covered nicely with the liquid roof.

 

[joester]

roof looks nice. our 1991 Tioga got a brand new EPDM rubber roof earlier this year, was the best solution for our rig.
not cheap, but should last a LONG time....

 

[quailchaser]

roof looks nice. our 1991 Tioga got a brand new EPDM rubber roof earlier this year, was the best solution for our rig.
not cheap, but should last a LONG time....

Thank You.  I looked into that as well.  The cost of materials would not have been a lot diffferent, but the labor would have been.  The rubber was ok on ours.  Top layer in several areas was flaking, but not down to the black.  I could have gotten a few more years out of it with just patching the cuts and few tree branch tears and caulking the caps and vents.  However, now it's done!!!! ;D 

 

[Stella]

What a magnificent roof! It is perfect!

I really appreciate you sharing your pointers and process and will share pix when I start mine. Truly hoping it turns out as beautiful as yours has!

 

[quailchaser]

Thank you, Stella.

Preparation and patience are key to this project.  Again, I removed the dicor(lap sealant) off of all the vents and the front and rear caps.  I used a 2" wide somewhat flexible putty knife.  I had a Home Depot bucket on the roof to deposit the mess as I went.  Most of the cuts and tears in the roof had been repaired with some sort of sealant/caulking by the previous owner.  I scraped all this off as well.  My son marked each cut or apparent cut that he found as he cleaned.  Amazing how much stuff you find when you are forced to go over every inch of the roof.  The rubber roof on ours rolls over the edge and is secured on the side.  I used blue painters tape and ran it along all the edges and the front and rear caps as my edge of where I wanted the liquid roof to stop.

Once all that was done, it only took me 4 hours to do the whole roof.  Would have been faster if it wasn't so warm.  I would mix a gallon pail.  Hall it to the roof.  Use a paint brush (2" worked well) to do the edges, around all the vents and the end caps.  I only did this in the area (~5' x 8') that the 1 gallon of liquid roof would cover (~40-46 sq feet).  Then I poured the liquid on the roof in the area I wanted to work, and used a squeegee to spread it.  Then I would pour the next area and use the squeegee and spread it out evenly.  Doing this until the 1 gallon pail was empty.  Then I went over the entire area with a short knap paint roller on a 5' pole extention to smooth it out.  Very similar to painting...except this stuff is quite a bit thicker.  Then I would mix the next pail and repeat the above steps.  I worked from front to back.  Might have been better to work 1/2 the width of the roof all the way from front to back or vice versa and then do the other 1/2.  Have fun!  Oh, and if you are using white like I did...sunglasses and sun screen!!!!!