Propane thru-a-wall connector?

[Jack2]

This might be a trivial, but what do I need / where do I find a thru a wall connector allowing me to hook-up propane tanks outside the rig and be able to hook-up propane powered appliances when needed?

In my limited RV experience, I've seen only a physical / single piece of hose going from a tank, thru a wall opening, to an appliance, and this is what I want to avoid.

Using analogy, I am looking something similar to cable TV jacks.

Thanks,
Jack2

 

[Lou Schneider]

You won't find one, due to the dangers of routing tank pressure propane inside of the RV. Propane needs to go through a regulator first to reduce the pressure. That's why the extend-a-stay kits connect right at the motorhome's propane tank, so the gas can go through the regulator before being sent to the appliances.

Propane tank pressure ranges from about 100-150 PSI, depending on the temperature. The distribution pressure going to the appliances is 0.5 PSI (11 inches water column). You don't want to connect tank pressure directly to an appliance.

 

[Jack2]

[...] Propane needs to go through a regulator first to reduce the pressure. That's why the extend-a-stay kits connect right at the motorhome's propane tank, so the gas can go through the regulator before being sent to the appliances.
[...]

I totally get it. I didn't mention about the pressure regulator but I was thinking about placing it outside.
To summarize: [propane cylinder outside] --> pressure regulator --> hose to the outdoor of my theoretical connector --> indoor side of the connector --> hose --> appliance.

Is this still not an option?

Thanks,
Jack

 

[JayArr]

You can make that in the plumbing aisle of Home Depot. You just need some fittings, a short piece of pipe and some mounting hardware. All those flexible hoses may seem convenient but you'r plan has a LOT of failure points that could leak and cause a fire. If nobody does it the way you think of there is probably a reason!

The correct - safe - way to do it is to find a place to permanently mount the regulator, from wall around the tongue is a good place. The tank attaches to the regulator with a rubber flexible line. Then from the regulator use steel threaded pipe to run down and turn under the trailer so you're below the frame, route to a location where you can enter the trailer like inside a cabinet or below the sink. change from steel to copper underneath and run the copper up through the floor to the appliance.

I would NEVER use a flexible line inside the trailer, NEVER.

 

[Heli_av8tor]

My kitchen slide-out has the fridge, stove, and furnace in it. Must be a flex line connecting it to the propane.
Ideal? Probably not, but there are tons of them out there.

 

[CharlesinGA]

You can make that in the plumbing aisle of Home Depot. You just need some fittings, a short piece of pipe and some mounting hardware. All those flexible hoses may seem convenient but you'r plan has a LOT of failure points that could leak and cause a fire. If nobody does it the way you think of there is probably a reason!

The correct - safe - way to do it is to find a place to permanently mount the regulator, from wall around the tongue is a good place. The tank attaches to the regulator with a rubber flexible line. Then from the regulator use steel threaded pipe to run down and turn under the trailer so you're below the frame, route to a location where you can enter the trailer like inside a cabinet or below the sink. change from steel to copper underneath and run the copper up through the floor to the appliance.

I would NEVER use a flexible line inside the trailer, NEVER.

I have it on good authority that the codes governing gas lines in RV's have recently changed, and they no longer allow the black steel pipe that has been used for many years in trailers and motor homes. My Winnebago View MH and the Thor travel trailer I just sold both had rigid black steel gas piping underneath, routed thru holes in the frame. In both cases, copper brought the gas up thru the floor to the appliance.

My Bigfoot is plumbed completely with soft copper tubing routed under the trailer thru openings in the crossmembers, and with Tees and Ells to take it up thru the floor to the various appliances. The one that astounded me is a 2017 trailer my travel buddy purchased last year. It is completely plumbed with flex rubber hose with threaded metal ends (flare or pipe, not sure) crimped onto the hoses and this runs the length of the trailer underneath (but above the underside plastic skin) and Tees and runs up to appliances in various places. We had to really get down and hunt to find the outside quick disconnect for BBQ grills and griddles. Its rather far underneath in a difficult to reach location.

If the OP is fearful of lines passing up thru the floor being "cut", worn, fretted, etc, the best thing to do is plan on sleeving the tubing (probably 3/8 copper) where it passes thru the floor with snug fitting rubber hose or similar. It will last a lifetime.

Charles

 

[Warningt]

I have it on good authority that the codes governing gas lines in RV's have recently changed, and they no longer allow the black steel pipe that has been used for many years in trailers and motor homes. My Winnebago View MH and the Thor travel trailer I just sold both had rigid black steel gas piping underneath, routed thru holes in the frame. In both cases, copper brought the gas up thru the floor to the appliance.

My Bigfoot is plumbed completely with soft copper tubing routed under the trailer thru openings in the crossmembers, and with Tees and Ells to take it up thru the floor to the various appliances. The one that astounded me is a 2017 trailer my travel buddy purchased last year. It is completely plumbed with flex rubber hose with threaded metal ends (flare or pipe, not sure) crimped onto the hoses and this runs the length of the trailer underneath (but above the underside plastic skin) and Tees and runs up to appliances in various places. We had to really get down and hunt to find the outside quick disconnect for BBQ grills and griddles. Its rather far underneath in a difficult to reach location.

If the OP is fearful of lines passing up thru the floor being "cut", worn, fretted, etc, the best thing to do is plan on sleeving the tubing (probably 3/8 copper) where it passes thru the floor with snug fitting rubber hose or similar. It will last a lifetime.

Charles

Charles,

I’m coming in a day late and $ short here but am needing the same thing. I’m new to this forum, but am wondering if the codes you referenced are posted anywhere that you know of. I want to install the gas lines correctly, but am having trouble finding the current codes to do so.

Thks

Greg

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

NFPA 1192 is the safety code for RVs, and I believe it includes (by reference) sections of NFPA 58, the gas code. Your local library reference section may have copies; if not you may have to buy them from either RVIA or NFPA.

 

[CharlesinGA]

New RV's all seem to have rubber hoses and Tees and Ells to make up a system. My motor home had black iron pipe and the buyer (a very non mechanical person and a worry wort) was greatly concerned about the layer of fine rust dust on the pipes. I told him it was normal but if it bothered him greatly to get a can of POR15 and a small brush and paint them. Personally, I would do it like my Bigfoot and use the soft copper tubing (3/8) and brass flare fittings and cover the tubing with split plastic wire loom material. clamping everything in place with rubber lined Adel clamps to hold the tubing.

Charles

 

[John From Detroit]

This might be a trivial, but what do I need / where do I find a thru a wall connector allowing me to hook-up propane tanks outside the rig and be able to hook-up propane powered appliances when needed?

In my limited RV experience, I've seen only a physical / single piece of hose going from a tank, thru a wall opening, to an appliance, and this is what I want to avoid.

Using analogy, I am looking something similar to cable TV jacks.

Thanks,
Jack2

First there is High Pressure and Low Pressure Propane. HIGH pressure is what is in the tank. LOW is what most appliances use.
Portable grills usualy have their own regulator..
Now. there is a product the more or less Generic name (used to be a brand name) is either Extend-a-Flow (For trailers) or Extend-a-Stay) for motor homes.
This goes between the Tank and the Regulator and has a "Tap" on it that looks like the top of a "Throw away" Propane bottle (The 1 pounders) You can get a 10' hose to go to your grill (or 2) and an adapter if your grill has either an Acme or POL connector on it.

They work well.

The "Extend-a-stay" for the motor home also has an INLET plugged with a screw in plug.. You can remove the plug (it's just a safety there's a check valve behind it) and screw in a 5' hose to a luggable tank. you don't need that on a trailer with removable tanks for obvious reasons.
I had one on my trailer. and the other on my motor home. Work well.

 

[Warningt]

Thanks all for the input.