Quick question

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NFranzen

Active member
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Posts
41
Location
Lexington, Ohio
My 2000 Dutchmen Voyager has a spot for a battery.  I installed a battery and have everything hooked up properly but my interior lights still do not work.  My fridge can be AC, DC, or propane, so I set the fridge to DC and it is cooling, so I know the battery is working.  Is it not made to run my lights also?  I have no documentation on this thing so I am just guessing.  Thanks!

*Edit:
Everything works when I am hooked to shore power.
 

Rene T

Site Team
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May 20, 2011
Posts
19,489
Location
Farmington NH
All your lights should be 12 Volt DC. There are exceptions. I had a light in a RV years ago which was 110 Volt AC. I have no idea what your problem is so we'll just have to wait till one of the experts jumps in.

How old is the battery and have you had it checked?

Have you checked the connections on the battery. Maybe when you want to run several lights, the connections on the battery are not tight enough is not allowing enough voltage to pass to the wiring but they are tight enough to power just the 12 volts for the fridge. Shut the fridge off and try just one light.
 

SeilerBird

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Feb 25, 2012
Posts
16,701
Location
St Cloud Florida USA
I think the lights are 12 volts but I would not bet money on it. In my fifth wheel I have more 110 volt lights than I do have 12 volt lights.
 

NFranzen

Active member
Joined
Apr 23, 2018
Posts
41
Location
Lexington, Ohio
Yeah the 2 lights are 12 volt.  I have tried to turn just 1 on without the fridge with no luck.  The battery is good.
 

Prior member

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Jan 20, 2015
Posts
1,232
When we first got our Coleman pop up, the interior lights would not work.
After tracing the wiring out, we found a switch on the side of the fold down sink/stove.
On ours when the sink/stove is folded for travel it disconnected the switch. but what was happening when we set up, the flexible  water drain pipe was holding the unit just a fraction up off the switch. I cut the hole where the pipe passed through a little bigger which allowed the unit to seat properly and turn on the switch. -That fixed the problem

You could possibly have a similar set up

jack L
 

John From Detroit

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Posts
26,278
Location
Davison Michigan
Suspect list: Battery (but you say it is good and I won't argue)
battery installed backwards (likely would not affect lights)
Bad connection. battery Ground cable or anywhere along the hot lines
Missed connection (Very common) many RV's have 2 or more wires hooked to the house positive. Some have 2 or more to the negative as well.
"Salesman Switch" really the house battery disconnect switch USUALLY but not always just inside the roor at a handy level if you are standing on the GROUND but may be inside on a master control panel. or in the battery bay.> NOTE some are "Locally" operates. Some remote and if remote the switch, the fuse that powers it and the latching solenoid are all on the list.
Tripped circuit breaker
Blow "Main" fuse (this is usually a 30 amp). 
 

John From Detroit

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Posts
26,278
Location
Davison Michigan
To Diagnose. I use a test light.. This is an ice pick looking thing with a wire coming out and a clip.

Start at the battery  Bright light = GOOD
Now move the ground clip to a chassis point (not painted) still bright. Good
Move out along the positive wire(s) and when you get to a point that is dark.
Problem exists between bright and dark.

NOTHING can be easier to read.
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,489
Location
Farmington NH
John From Detroit said:
Suspect list: Battery (but you say it is good and I won't argue)
battery installed backwards (likely would not affect lights)
Bad connection. battery Ground cable or anywhere along the hot lines
Missed connection (Very common) many RV's have 2 or more wires hooked to the house positive. Some have 2 or more to the negative as well.
"Salesman Switch" really the house battery disconnect switch USUALLY but not always just inside the roor at a handy level if you are standing on the GROUND but may be inside on a master control panel. or in the battery bay.> NOTE some are "Locally" operates. Some remote and if remote the switch, the fuse that powers it and the latching solenoid are all on the list.
Tripped circuit breaker
Blow "Main" fuse (this is usually a 30 amp).

John, the Op says it does work on shore power but doesn't on battery.
 

Alfa38User

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Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Posts
6,678
The OP should be aware that if the fridge is cooling using 12V, it won't be for long. Those are very battery hungry beasts as they use a 12V heater heater to do the job. Plugged into AC usually works best followed by propane if plugging in is not available.

Every electric group of circuits is protected by a fuse or a circuit breaker, sometimes with a small inline, well hidden fuse.
 

Rene T

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May 20, 2011
Posts
19,489
Location
Farmington NH
Alfa38User said:
Every electric group of circuits is protected by a fuse or a circuit breaker, sometimes with a small inline, well hidden fuse.

The thing is Stu is that they work fine on shore power. That tells me that shore power is getting to the converter then all the 12 volt circuits.  I'm still thinking it's something with the battery.

To NFrazen, is there any chance of getting another battery from someplace and just try it?
 

Hfx_Cdn

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Sep 22, 2006
Posts
3,866
Location
Nova Scotia
My 2 cents worth is that there is a ground problem in the 12 volt circuit somewhere.  I would follow John;s advice and see if you can find where the breakdown is occuring.  It sounds like it would be at a splice between the battery and where the converter hooks into the 12 volt circuit.

Ed
 
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