Re:Fire Suppressor System Installation

[JerArdra]

Jim Dick,

RE placing the remote-head of a FE up high (I don't want to remove the refer either).  I am looking at placing the FE itself on the left side (toward rear of MH) of my Norcold at the bottom on the floor.  Then pulling the remote head up with a string or rope.  This is very "iffy" so far but when I was switching between the old 1200 and the new 1210 I removed the refer vent cover on the roof.  Then I cut away all the screen/mesh so I could reach in and clean the burner tube from the top using a long narrow brush (flue brush).  BTW, I replaced the screen with 1/4" hardware cloth.  I cut the hardware cloth to a size that allowed it to be folded around the outside of the frame to which the removable vent cover fits and it worked GREAT.  Now all I have to do is place the form-fitted hardware cloth screen cover in place, set the plastic roof vent cover in place, install the four mounting screws, and both the new hardware cloth screening and the vent cover are secured in place.  This allows me to clean the vent tube once a year as Norcold recommends.  BTW, cover your gas burner nozzle before brushing the vent tube so you don't fill the nozzle with debris.

Now, I said "iffy" because it's difficult to reach down so I am still trying to figure out how to secure the remote FE head so it does not swing freely about.  Who knows, maybe a thin metal or wooden post secured at the top but that leaves me with how to secure the post to the remote head.  Maybe I can secure it to the remote head before hand and pull it up by the post?????????

Skyking4ar2,

You mentioned two FEs.  I have been reading some troubling stuff on the IRV2 forum and elsewhere.  I also might install TWO FEs, one low right next to the electric element on the burner stack and one up high above the coils.

The photos show a few other things I found.

JerryF

 

 

[JerArdra]

To refresh you here is a photo of the rear of a Norcold Model 1210.  For
those of you with a Model 1200, as I remember, the two fans in this picture
that are mounted up high just above a label are mounted lower, let's say,
about half way between the top of the coils and where you see these two fans
in this photo.

I posted this to help if you try to mount a remote FE head up-high above the
coils without removing the refer..

The idea I mentioned in my previous post would come down from the top.

Another idea would be to make an L shaped holder for the remote head.  Then
reach up on the left side of the coils and secure the holder with the remote
head over the coils.  I may have room to do this in our coach.  BTW, this
upside down L would have to be secured to the inside of the outside wall
of the MH because you CANNOT drill any holes into the refer to hold the
upside down L shaped holder. 

In the photo I tried to show the L shaped holder using white colored equal signs.

JerryF

 

[JerArdra]

In my previous post I talked about how I might place a the remote head of an SS30 FE over the rear coils of our Norcold without removing the refer.  In this new picture of the rear you can see a 45 degree line.

I found out that I could place a 2" by 20" long piece of 1/4" plywood with the remote head attached at the upper end.  Look along the 45 degree angle shown on the photo (my previous post discussed the L shaped line on this photo).  I can do this because the wood can be attached to the outside wall on the MH at the bottom (lower left corner of the photo).

JerryF

 

[JerArdra]

My FE arrived today and this weekend I will install it.

JerryF

 

[Jim Dick]

Jerry,

I'll be interested in how you make the final installation. I'm sure I will be getting one soon.

 

[KodiakRV]

Jerry,

I'll be interested in how you make the final installation. I'm sure I will be getting one soon.

I bought one of these ss-30 halon fire extinguishers in December and installed it in our fridge compartment.

Jim -- This place is right down the road in north Melbourne.  It's near Wickham Rd. and Lake Washington Rd.

 

[JerArdra]

Saturday - 3/5/2011

ALL,

I just finished installing our Fire Extinguisher (FE) and also a Smoke Detector (SD). 

First the FE.  I bought the remote head Halon SS30 and placed it horizontal on the floor behind our Norcold 1210.  Then I routed the remote head over to the side of the Norcold where the gas burner and the electric heat elements are located.  The remote head itself is about equal in height with and next to the electric heat element.  Also, the remote head (that's where it must reach 165 degrees) is tucked back in the corner so it is NOT in the direct path of incoming air through the outside wall vent on the motorhome.  I did this without removing the Norcold refer.

See my annotated photos showing the FE install in detail.

Now to what could be even more important as a "first warning" of a fire, e.g., the Smoke Detector (SD).  Standing outside the motorhome and looking inward toward the rear of the refer it is mounted to the left side of the Norcold.  This is the opposite side from the gas burner/electric element heaters.

It is mounted on a plywood stick that is 37" long so it is up next to and slightly above the left side of the refer's coils.  Also, I was able to install it without removing the Norcold.  Here are some thoughts on the SD installation.

To replace a battery it would take about 30-40 minutes to remove and reinstall it.  For that reason I  bought a Lithium 9 volt battery so it would last 4-5 years.  NOTE:  Lithium batteries work better in cold weather.

If I get a false alarm it is at a height that all I have to do is use our portable outside front door step and reach up through the outside refer vent to press the "stop bugging us" button to end the noise.  If I keep getting false alarms from dirt in the air as we drive then I'll have to remove it.

I bought a small SD (3-7/8" in diameter) so it would fit.  It is Model i9040 at Home Depot for $5.00.  Yes, your life is worth $5.00 even if you have to remove it because of false alarms!!!

You can hear it in both the bedroom and kitchen.  It is an 85 decibel horn.  It is muffled a bit because of its location but remember it would be sounding continuously, not just a single beep, and would get your attention.

See my annotated photos to further understand the SD instillation.

One more idea:  For those of you who do NOT have a baffle into which you can screw an eyelet to hold the smoke detector stick, try gluing a short piece of a 2 x 4 or maybe two thicknesses of 2 x 4 to the outside wall of your coach.  Before gluing it pre drill a hole into which the eyelet will be screwed in.  You don't have enough room to dril it after it's glued in place.  Then you could install a smoke detector like I did with the stick touching the floor and an eyelet holding it to the wall, 2 x 4 in your case.

JerryF 

 

[Tom]

Thanks Jerry. Great job.

 

[ArdraF]

I have to say, Jerry did a really nice installation of both the fire extinguisher and the smoke alarm.  He put a lot of thought into it and talked with a lot of people before proceeding.  I think he did a great job (not that I'm biased!).

ArdraF

 

[KodiakRV]

Saturday - 3/5/2011
ALL,
I just finished installing our Fire Extinguisher (FE) and also a Smoke Detector (SD). 
...
JerryF

What a great job of annotated photos.  Thanks!  Very clever way of getting the smoke detector to a good location, too!

 

[Molaker]

@Jerry - nice job.  But, I have one question.  How to you reset the smoke detector if it is triggered by - oh say, your neighbor's campfire or your own BBQ?  I have a suggestion that may or may not work and that would be to wire in a switch (could be mom push button maybe) to interrupt the battery power.  Run the wires down the board to an accessible point and mount the switch there.

 

[rbell]

Good job Jerry. I'm thinking many of us are going to do this.

 

[Kim (skyking4ar2) Bertram]

Ardra/Jerry,

I am hoping to have mine done before we get to Moab and will enjoy sitting at the feet of the masters and getting my grade.  ;D

Thanks for the excellent report. I think the completeness of this solution will help a lot of people sleep better at night. It certainly is cost effective.

Kim

 

[Jim Dick]

Jerry,

Great job and description!! I'll be getting mine this week. Thanks for your efforts.

 

[JerArdra]

Molaker,

The button on this Smoke Detector (SD), which is probably on the circuit board, does a couple of things depending upon whether it is being held down or just quickly pressed down such as:  a quick press tests to see if the SD is still working and holding it down stops the 85 decibel horn if it is sounding off an alarm.  For me it would be to complicated to rewire it.

OTOH, because either Ardra or I can stand on our portable front door step (SEE PHOTO), reach up through the outside vent, and hold the button in for a couple of seconds to stop the horn I didn't consider a more elegant solution to shutting it off.  To complicated for me!  Thanks for the thought.

JerryF

 

[JerArdra]

Kim,

You're absolutely correct.  I really like the Smoke Detector (SD) because it would give a warning when you are sleeping at night.  The continuous sound of the SD 85 decibel horn would wake you up but the quick short whooshing sound of the Halon being discharged might not wake you up.

To me, our Smoke Detector is the first line of protection.  My feeling is, let the coach burn (we have insurance for the coach) but just make sure that both Ardra and I get out unscathed!

JerryF

 

[PancakeBill]

Jerry, must have been fun mounting the remote bracket, looks like a tough left handed contortion.

 

[Molaker]

OTOH, because either Ardra or I can stand on our portable front door step (SEE PHOTO), reach up through the outside vent, and hold the button in for a couple of seconds to stop the horn I didn't consider a more elegant solution to shutting it off.

I could not tell from your photos if the test/reset button could be reached.  Since it can, then no worries.

 

[JerArdra]

PancakeBill,

It was a bit tough.  In fact, if I had a left-handed friend close by I'd have let them do it.  I was glad the FE head only used two screws.  The inside screw (closest to the Norcold itself) was the hardest one.

JerryF

 

[JerArdra]

Can anyone answer this question?  Do you think it may be possible to remove the horn from the Smoke Detector's circuit board, add some wire, and mount it outside the Norcold's cabinet?

Maybe someone has an old (not working) smoke detector they could cut apart and see if the horn could be removed and a longer wire added.

Attached are two photos of the inside of a Smoke Detector that I found on the How Things Work internet site.

JerryF