Recurve R3 hitch frustration

[bikemutt]

The weight-distributing trailer frame side of this hitch is driving me nuts!

According to the manual the tension bar plates are to be installed plumb and level to the trailer frame. The problem I have is no matter how tight I secure the plates, they end up rotating and/or moving on the frame after tight back-ins (more so), and mountainous trips (less so).

I could, of course, ignore this; the setup works for towing regardless of how the plates happen to be oriented. The problem that's not acceptable is the tilted plates interfere with the proper operation of the tension bar lever which is used to set the bar into the plate, the tilted plate wants to push the lever out of the assembly making it darn near impossible to seat the tension bar into position.

Here's a picture showing the driver side plate installed plumb and level with respect to the frame:

Here's what the plate looks like after a 5 mile trip and a tight parking back-in:

I torqued those bolts as tight as I can manage with a 1/2" ratchet handle, either something is wrong, or I'm doing something wrong.

My first thought is to assemble the plate as shown in the first picture, then either drill and tap, or drill for self-tapping screws to prevent the rotation. My concern with that approach is now I've modified the trailer frame which will be blamed for every future thing thing that can possibly go wrong.

My second thought is to dump the Recurve hitch and go with chains.

Thoughts please?

 

[Martian]

First thing to look at is what rating you torqued the bolts to. Did you follow the torque settings as stated in the instructions? If not, there is no reasonable expectation that the parts will do their intended job. If you do not have a torque wrench, borrow one or rent or buy one as there are many things on a trailer that need to be torqued, with wheels heading the list.

 

[bikemutt]

First thing to look at is what rating you torqued the bolts to. Did you follow the torque settings as stated in the instructions? If not, there is no reasonable expectation that the parts will do their intended job. If you do not have a torque wrench, borrow one or rent or buy one as there are many things on a trailer that need to be torqued, with wheels heading the list.

There is no torque specification for the hangers, I installed the nuts and bolts just as recommended.

 

[Joezeppy]

Is the spacing between the bolts slightly larger than the frame? 8" frame but 8-1/4" spacing, for example? If so, maybe use a steel shim above the frame to make it exact? You'd want to secure the shim to the frame somehow to avoid the possibility of it flying out.

 

[SuwanneeDave1]

I have the same hitch and it did the same thing when I first installed it. After I reposition and tightened it a couple of times it stayed in position. You might need a 1/2 inch breaker bar instead of a ratchet. Also tighten the nut and not the allen head bolt side.

 

[bikemutt]

Is the spacing between the bolts slightly larger than the frame? 8" frame but 8-1/4" spacing, for example? If so, maybe use a steel shim above the frame to make it exact? You'd want to secure the shim to the frame somehow to avoid the possibility of it flying out.

Yes, the vertical distance between the frame bolts is greater than the frame height by about 3/16 of an inch. I tried shimming with some flat bar stock but that didn't seem to work quite how I figured it would.

The more I re-read the instructions, and re-watch a manufacturer's YouTube video, I think the hangers are supposed to rotate in order to accommodate the tilt of the ball assembly. I'll give that a try.

What I find misleading is the manual's diagram showing the hitch before hooking up, and after hooking up. The red lines I added show the implied tilt of the ball assembly in both cases, the drawing makes it appear as if the pre-tilted ball assembly is dead-level with the trailer frame after hookup, that simply is not the case. The ball assembly is tilted using a setscrew and thumbwheel from above, and a locking screw from below, it is fully captured in it's tilted position, whatever tilt angle is selected is where it's going to stay regardless of hookup position.

If in fact the ball assembly swiveled vertically as indicated, tilting the assembly would offer no additional, or less torsion.

 

[bikemutt]

Alrighty then, I think I finally have this beast figured out.

This is the angle needed to bring the truck and the trailer to proper ride alignment; the hitch is maxed out. My guess is a pair of 1200lb tension bars would be a better fit for this setup, but the 1000lb bars are within ride specification:



What's not obvious from the diagram is this forces the tension bars to point downward from the hitch towards the trailer. The only way to get the bars close enough to their hangers in order to set them in place is to lock the hitch to the ball and use the tongue jack to raise the truck and trailer tongue. As the jack is extended the tail end of the tension bars get closer to their hangers. Once the bars are within a couple inches from their hangers, then it's easy to use the hookup tool to slip the tension bars into the hangers and lock them in place. The final step is to retract the tongue jack and allow the load to be borne by the truck suspension and tension bars.

The reality at this point is the tension bars are not level with the trailer frame, they are at least 12° apart, and for that reason the hangers, which are expected to be in the same plane as the tension bars, must also rest at 12°.

What I think I missed to begin with is how much the tongue jack needs to raised to seal the deal: around 3" above the nominal ride height measured at the rear bumper is required. I still feel a pair of 1200lb tension bars would take this off the ragged edge, maybe I'll call Camco, see if they agree and want to donate a pair, lol.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Raising the tongue and rear of the truck to ease connection of the bars is common practice and mentioned in most hitch instructions.

Charles

 

[Domo]

I think I paid about $50 to have a welding shop mount those plates. Later, I cut off the excess tabs for the bolt holes with a metal abrasive blade in my right angle grinder, primed and painted. Done, no issues.