Refrigerator replacement

[wunderlong88]

My 2016 RPod has a Dometic fridge that I think took a lightening hit. Dometic says $750 to replace the control panel (and I'm not 100% sure that will fix the problem).

The fridge is model RM7551L. Dometic could not tell me what fridges will fit in it's spot and from the prices of their equipment (1500+) I am hoping to find an inexpensive fix. This is my first camper and I have not been able to figure out how to find other options for a replacement refrigerator. I'm hoping you guys can point me in the right direction.

Thank you,

Linda

 

[HueyPilotVN]

If you have an Invertor then you might consider a residential Refer.

Maybe a small one for a RPod.

Here is a link to a post that discusses them.

Residential vs RV Fridge

In my trailer days I used a small "Residential" Fridge and loved it. but I never went far so it was never long without power Save once when I had to put the trailer in storage then I had to steam clean it. I was glad to have a RV type Absorption cooling unit in this RV. But I am also...

www.rvforum.net

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

I haven't researched this unit specifically but my first pass on this would be to apply power to the heater directly and see if the cooling unit operates. If that's intact, then you've got some confidence in replacing other suspect parts. Something to compare that cost to is labor and refit cost/complexity of something else, so I'd want to know for sure the unit I had was really toast before entertaining a tear out.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[donn]

Well, you can always pull it out and measure then go looking for a suitable replacement. That would be the simplest. Apparently your refer model is discontinued, so a replacement model will be your best choice.
Now, how do you RV? Always full hookups, then maybe either a 12VDC compressor refer or a 120VAC only apartment model would be a far better choice.
If you do some non hookup RVing then you will want a dual fuel model and Dometics seem to be better than Nevercolds.

 

[wunderlong88]

We mostly hookup to electric but occasionally use solar panels in mild weather when we can get an electric hookup.

 

[John From Detroit]

Both Dometic and Norcold have made what I call "Danfoss" (Explanation follows) class all electric 12/120 volt Refrigerators.. these draw about 40 watts running (Between 3 and 4 amps at 12 volt) not much power. work well based on the hardware I have in that class. (Two chest freezers. one died after 15 years and I replaced it ) These are "Drop in" replaements for at least one absorption model.


There are a few different companies who make the ultra effiient compressor used in these units.. Danfoss is one of them.. that's the only name I recall so that's the one I use...

 

[Rene T]

Spend a little money and have a mobile repair guy come in and trouble shoot it. It may be just a fuse is blown. Make sure the guy you call is very knowledgeable about refrigerators.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Its rather odd that Dometic cannot tell you what replaces your existing fridge. They have THIS interchange manual for just such purposes (however it is now somewhat out of date and the recommended replacement appears also to be out of production) Go to PDF page 13 (printed page numbered 6 at the bottom.

The dimensions are in millimeters, so your existing RM7551 translates to 4.13 cu ft, and 32.32 inches high, 20.67 inches wide, and 24.5 inches deep.

Eleventh line down
MODEL; YEAR DISCONT.; CAPACITY (Litres); DIMENSIONS H x W x D (mm); IGNITION
RM 7551; 2005; 117; 821 x 525 x 623; MES R

specified replacement is
NEAREST REPLACEMENT; CAPACITY (Litres); DIMENSIONS (H x W x D mm) without door; with door; IGNITION; COMMENTS
RM 8555; 115; 821 x 523 x 553.5; 821 x 525 x 624; AES; Specify left or right hung

Charles

 

[jazz]

I had the NeverCold yanked out of mine and a Company install a Residental Fridge in my Revolution 40C. Fits great.

 

[whiteva]

We installed a residential fridge & inverter last year. Best upgrade yet!
Only concern was keeping it closed during travel. While having a barley pop and studying the problem, the answer was very simple. Since the door could be placed on either side, the threaded hinge holes were already in place on the opening side. Cut out a flat piece of aluminum then covered in soft cloth that was 4 inches long, drilled a hole in the middle and used an M5 screw with a knob on the end. After removing the cute little cap covering the hole we can screw the plate and knob in place during travel.

So simple and practical I had another barley pop to celebrate.

Cheers

 

[Marqlewis]

We installed a residential fridge & inverter last year. Best upgrade yet!
Only concern was keeping it closed during travel. While having a barley pop and studying the problem, the answer was very simple. Since the door could be placed on either side, the threaded hinge holes were already in place on the opening side. Cut out a flat piece of aluminum then covered in soft cloth that was 4 inches long, drilled a hole in the middle and used an M5 screw with a knob on the end. After removing the cute little cap covering the hole we can screw the plate and knob in place during travel.

So simple and practical I had another barley pop to celebrate.

Cheers
View attachment 151951

Where did you get your frig. I'm replacing mine. Would like to know the make and model

 

[NY_Dutch]

I replaced our failing Norcold fridge with a residential Haier fridge from Lowes that was a near perfect fit in the opening. I used two standard double hung window latches to keep the doors closed while under way. They cost about $3.50 each at Lowes.

 

[Marqlewis]

Gotcha, looks like you removed the mice6

 

[Marqlewis]

Sorry ..Microwave

 

[Rene T]

When I replaced my fridge with a residential I purposely looked for one with the coils on the back of yhe fridge. Reason being I could insulate the top, sides and bottom of the fridge. If the coil is on the bottom, you can’t insulate the bottom of the fridge so cool air can come into the rv during cold weather and hot air from the coil comes into the rv. Not good when you’re trying to keep the rv cool with the Air Conditioner. All my hot air (from the fridge) goes out the existing vents

 

[NY_Dutch]

Sorry ..Microwave

Our microwave is right where it's always been to the left of the fridge. I did replace the original Sharp MW with a Hamilton Beach unit a few years ago when the Sharp control panel was failing.

 

[John From Detroit]

IN my trailer days I used a small "Dorm/office" size 120 volt fridge.... Put a packing strap around it to keep closed and a couple more as a carry handle.
Last time I saw it it was being loaded into another RV after I got my Class A.
Real handy Really liked that thing compared to the old "Coleman Cooler" ice chest.
Got it because a campground started charging $3.00/day for electricity. I was spending more than that on bagged ice so it paid for itself rather quickly as well.