Refrigerator won't light on LP after circuit board replacement.

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Blyth

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Posts
6
I have a Dometic 2852 refrigerator in my travel trailer.  It didn't want to work very well at all on electric so I decided to replace the circuit board with a new board that also has an adjustable temp setting on it(dinosaur board).  Now the refrigerator will cool on electric, but it will not work on lp.  I can hear it clicking and while the outer access panel is removed and watching it I can see it almost light and even hear the little "poofs" like it lights and just goes out.  It won't stay on.  Along with this, it will sit there and continually try to light for infinity, (I guess) as the "check" light did not come on after I let it sit there and try to light for approximately 10 minutes.  It's almost like the solenoid isn't staying open to allow the lp to flow.  I'm sure, me being my DIY type self, I managed to not get something done righ.  Does anybody have any suggestions?  I have looked for wires possibly being knocked loose and/or loose connections.  I would appreciate any help or suggestions.  Thanks, Blyth
 

Blyth

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Posts
6
Yes... I did.. TY..  The "check" light should have come on if that was the case as it would think it was out of LP.  It just sits there and keeps trying to light.  It has LP and the LP is flowing when the solenoid opens.  It seems like the solenoid opens and then closes repeatedly.
 

Kamper Dave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Posts
195
Location
Wisconsin
Does the furnace run? Just to take the propane supply out of the equation.
Those new propane systems will not allow flow if it thinks there is a leak. Make sure that nothing is calling for gas when re-suppling propane.
KD
 

Blyth

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Posts
6
The furnace runs.  This is in a 98 Gulf Stream bumper pull travel trailer.  I replaced the original circuit board with the equivalent Dinosaur board.  Only after swapping the boards out do I have this problem with it not wanting to light.  The solenoid is definately kicking on and off repeatedly.  TY!!!!
Edit: Removed white space.
 

Blyth

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Posts
6
I have found out that if I unplug the electrical plug for the refrigerator from the wall socket that the refrigerator will go to LP mode and light, but as soon as I plug it back into the wall socket the solenoid starts cycling(which repeatedly starts and stops the gas flow)
 

Alfa38User

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Posts
6,676
It would appear to be the new board may be at fault. Double checked your wiring?? Have you contacted Dinosaur and explained that new information to them??

It seems that the new board is not detecting the presence of 120V AC correctly.
 

Blyth

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Posts
6
Yes.  I contacted Dinosaur earlier this morning.  The technician had me put a meter on the J4 terminal to get the voltage and it registered at 35.6v.  He said it should only be around 12v.  Apparently, the board is getting to many volts.  He said that it sounds as though the power converter is putting out to many volts.  It is just odd that this LP problem popped up after replacing the circuit board.  However, I am not an electrician and maybe that is some sort of safety feature built into the new board.
 

Blyth

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Posts
6
He also had me get voltage reading by putting the meter on the red and brown wires that run to the "eyebrow" panel of the fridge.  When I did this, the solenoid opened up and it lit and stayed that way until I removed the lead from one of the wires.  It then went back to the solenoid clicking(opening and closing I am assuming).
 

Alfa38User

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Posts
6,676
I find it very unusual that, all of a sudden, the converter start acting up and putting out 36V instead of 12V DC... Sounds more and more like a small wiring error. Be careful you have the meter set for DC and not AC and in the correct range (if it is not auto-ranging).

If you suspect the converter, pull the fuse feeding it 120V AC, (if you can!) or disconnect the trailer from 120V and see if things change. You will then be on pure battery power and there is no way those same terminals can read 36V.  With the converter on, measure the voltage across the battery terminals to see the output of the converter. (should be about 13.2V DC when charging.)
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
119,160
Posts
1,194,299
Members
123,941
Latest member
Vern2day
Top Bottom