Remodel turned into more than expected... Osb board.

[travelingalice]

So I decided to up grade and remodel my camper. In the main bath since I also have a half bath off the bunk room I wanted to redo the vinyl that is peel and stick. It's what was down when I bought it.

Anyways removing it uncover mold coming from under the tub. Yes I did once have a bathtub leak and had a professional come fix but he didn't say anything about mold as you really wouldn't know unless you lifted up the vinyl.

So I have to bath tub and wall out and I'm currently about to go remove the rest of the mold. I do have the bathroom doorway blocked off with plastic since I have a kid and dog. Luckily I have two doors and a half bath on the opposite side of trailer.

I already bought the replacement wood and not thinking I bought osb because that's what my floors are.
Before I lay the new osb down is there anything I can apply to it to prevent this happening again and what would y'all recommend for insulation for under the board. The pink stuff was under it but what's the best waterproof heat barrier (affordable ) to but down. I've read so much and I'm still unsure how I should do it.

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Painting both sides would be cheap and would seal the wood,, insulation would be your choice..>>>Dan

 

[tlmgcamp]

you might be better off with exterior grade plywood. OSB is a bit more sensitive to moisture

 

[Onyrlef]

So I decided to up grade and remodel my camper. In the main bath since I also have a half bath off the bunk room I wanted to redo the vinyl that is peel and stick. It's what was down when I bought it.

Anyways removing it uncover mold coming from under the tub. Yes I did once have a bathtub leak and had a professional come fix but he didn't say anything about mold as you really wouldn't know unless you lifted up the vinyl.

So I have to bath tub and wall out and I'm currently about to go remove the rest of the mold. I do have the bathroom doorway blocked off with plastic since I have a kid and dog. Luckily I have two doors and a half bath on the opposite side of trailer.

I already bought the replacement wood and not thinking I bought osb because that's what my floors are.
Before I lay the new osb down is there anything I can apply to it to prevent this happening again and what would y'all recommend for insulation for under the board. The pink stuff was under it but what's the best waterproof heat barrier (affordable ) to but down. I've read so much and I'm still unsure how I should do it.

Any interior grade wood sealer will do, exterior grades are ordinarily not permitted for interior use. Sounds like you had a thin foam barrier under the decking, you can buy it at any big box retailer. OSB is not to be confused with particle board, it's actually quite resilient. Most roofs are decked with OSB instead of plywood these days. You actually did right in choosing OSB.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Any interior grade wood sealer will do, exterior grades are ordinarily not permitted for interior use. Sounds like you had a thin foam barrier under the decking, you can buy it at any big box retailer. OSB is not to be confused with particle board, it's actually quite resilient. Most roofs are decked with OSB instead of plywood these days. You actually did right in choosing OSB.

Why not? If I'm doing a remodel on my own trailer I'm thinking there is no code and no OSHA inspector that would prevent me from using whatever sealer I deemed better for the job. Your point about OSB is spot on, however.

 

[SpencerPJ]

I think the osb will be fine as well. If you are worried, I'd use an exterior primer, personal preference. Pink insulation is a great thrifty choice, don't pack it too tight. I'm not a fan of peel and stick, if you can, buy a piece of roll vinyl flooring, glue it down. Caulk the perimeter, it will be much more resilient to water damage, especially with kids.

 

[Onyrlef]

Why not? If I'm doing a remodel on my own trailer I'm thinking there is no code and no OSHA inspector that would prevent me from using whatever sealer I deemed better for the job. Your point about OSB is spot on, however.

Why not? Because the petrochemical ingredients in some exterior only products emit noxious fumes which would be analogous to the same reasoning behind not running a generator indoors. You can however run a generator in your living room if you want as well, there's no code or an OSHA inspector going to stop you from doing that either.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Why not? Because the petrochemical ingredients in some exterior only products emit noxious fumes which would be analogous to the same reasoning behind not running a generator indoors. You can however run a generator in your living room if you want as well, there's no code or an OSHA inspector going to stop you from doing that either.

I only asked a question.

 

[Onyrlef]

I only asked a question.

I only answered it.

 

[Ahsonn]

Replacing the subfloor: Since you have already purchased OSB for the replacement, make sure it's the appropriate thickness for your camper's subfloor. Before installing the new subfloor, ensure that the area is clean and free of mold, moisture, and any other potential issues.

 

[travelingalice]

Any interior grade wood sealer will do, exterior grades are ordinarily not permitted for interior use. Sounds like you had a thin foam barrier under the decking, you can buy it at any big box retailer. OSB is not to be confused with particle board, it's actually quite resilient. Most roofs are decked with OSB instead of plywood these days. You actually did right in choosing OSB.

I went with thompson wood sealer. Havent applied it but im about to now thats uts cooling down outside

 

[travelingalice]

Replacing the subfloor: Since you have already purchased OSB for the replacement, make sure it's the appropriate thickness for your camper's subfloor. Before installing the new subfloor, ensure that the area is clean and free of mold, moisture, and any other potential issues.

Yes. Thankyou. I did purchase a moisture barrier and a hepa canister vacuum as well as cleaning supplies for it.

 

[travelingalice]

Yes. Thankyou. I did purchase a moisture barrier and a hepa canister vacuum as well as cleaning supplies for it.

I meant moisture tool to test the osb

 

[Tulecreeper]

I went with thompson wood sealer. Havent applied it but im about to now thats uts cooling down outside

Onyrlef suggests not to use that as it is an exterior water sealant.

 

[Onyrlef]

Onyrlef suggests not to use that as it is an exterior water sealant.

Onyrlef doesn't suggest anything, just read the labeling, it's not complicated.

 

[Lazy Bear Express]

So, we are all talking about sealing and whatnot. What about Red Guard? Would that work? Or is that for drywall only?

 

[travelingalice]

Onyrlef doesn't suggest anything, just read the labeling, it's not complicated.

RIght i did. I understood its for exterior which will be applied to the board outside. I figured its practically outside being ut the subfloor of a travel trailer. That and im only using it for the osb thats being replaced not for the entire trailer.

 

[DeckArtist]

RIght i did. I understood its for exterior which will be applied to the board outside. I figured its practically outside being ut the subfloor of a travel trailer. That and im only using it for the osb thats being replaced not for the entire trailer.

you are correct in your figuring and smart for using the most effective version of urethane for the job. Moisture breaks down interior urethane sealants much faster than spar urethane exterior versions.

Here's what OSB is made from...

Oriented strand board is manufactured in wide mats from cross-oriented layers of thin, rectangular wooden strips compressed and bonded together with wax and synthetic resin adhesives.

The adhesive resins types used include: urea-formaldehyde (OSB type 1, nonstructural, nonwaterproof); isocyanate-based glue (or PMDI poly-methylene diphenyl diisocyanate based) in inner regions with melamine-urea-formaldehyde or phenol formaldehyde resin glues at surface (OSB type 2, structural, water resistant on face); phenol formaldehyde resin throughout (OSB types 3 and 4, structural, for use in damp and outside environments).

I would not hesitate to seal any of these with spar urethane as a double layer of protection. I have been working with exterior grade poly for decades and as long as you are not sleeping next to the board as the urethane dries and cures [12-18 hours depending on humidity and airflow], you will not have any issues. Just make sure there is adequate ventilation during that process.

 

[Onyrlef]

So, we are all talking about sealing and whatnot. What about Red Guard? Would that work? Or is that for drywall only?

I've used red guard in bathroom applications where moisture is an issue on the walls and floors. It's also excellent for crack suppression on slab floors when used with a membrane in prep for installing tile. You're right it would work fine on the interior side of the osb.
I tiled our guest bath a few years back, I rolled and cut in Red Guard over the floors, walls and ceiling.