Repeated leaf spring failures on a 2014 tandem axle travel trailer

[zapatasghost]

This maybe a very dumb question, but how often do leaf springs typically need replacing?? My TT is a 2014 and significantly smaller than many I see on YouTube with guys replacing their springs (23' dual axle). As you can see in the attached, photos, I have the stock Equaflex equalizers. I've had to replace broken leaf springs 3 times (just replaced the 3rd)! Each time, I'm told that maybe I'm overloading the trailer which I really don't think I am. Although I do regularly haul a full tank of water at least part of the way to camp (all boondock camping), I am always well within the weight limit and never do any unusual hauling over particularly bumpy roads and never a speedster. And I've never pulled my trailer much more than a few times a year in relatively short distances - last trip was about a 4 hr drive mostly on regular paved highway which is longer than my usual 1 or 2 hour drive to camp. I have quite a big family who are also RV/TT owners who camp the same way I do and none have had to mess w/ their suspension systems at all!

Again, how often do leaf springs typically need replacing? Am I looking at replacing my entire suspension system?? Thoughts?

 

[garyb1st]

Not a dumb questions. Our motorhome is 21 years old and I'm wondering if part of the harsh ride issues is due to old springs.

 

[zapatasghost]

At this point, I've replaced all of the leaf springs since 2020 on mine.

My understanding is to look at them and if they're flattening out (vs. the nice curve they're supposed to have) - then they're likely needing replacing. I'm also gathering that the other hardware (U-bolts, shackles, brackets, bolts, etc) should be replaced along with the actual springs.

 

[Kirk]

Unless you are overloading the trailer, or the trailer does not the proper springs for it's weight, you should not need to replace them but rarely. I have never replaced the springs on any RV trailer that we have owned and most have been kept for at least 5-10 years. But I also have weighed them when loaded for travel since the mid 1990's. I would not expect a 12-year-old Nash product the need springs yet.

Our motorhome is 21 years old and I'm wondering if part of the harsh ride issues is due to old springs.

If you have a gas chassis, tail drop on gas chassis class A's is very common at or beyond 10 years of age. On our 36' class A by the age of 10 it was dropping significantly. Rather than replace the springs I had air bags added to all four corners and liked the result better than the original ride and handling. That was an F53 chassis. One of the reasons for this is that nearly all gas chassis class A motorhomes have extensions on the rear of the frame rails which puts additional leverage load on the rear springs.

 

[zapatasghost]

...I would not expect a 12-year-old Nash product the need springs yet.

I thought that too!! Thus my posting here! Thanks so much...

 

[Jackiemac]

Have you weighed it to be sure?

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[TheBar]

Since you only boondock how rough are the roads? Bad roads can ruin springs quickly.

 

[zapatasghost]

Have you weighed it to be sure?

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No. I've just done the math with full tank of water and added up all the supplies on board that have any significant weight and I'm well below the max weight. Family members who have very similar trailers carry at least as much weight or more than me on theirs and they are not having this problem. But weighing it with all the equipment will be my next step for sure...

 

[zapatasghost]

Since you only boondock how rough are the roads? Bad roads can ruin springs quickly.

Good point. Yes, the spots I take the trailer to do have dirt roads with some washboarding or holes for sure. I am always very careful to avoid the holes and crawl the trailer on those roads overall - even more so with a full tank of water. Like I said, my family all do the same camping (rare that we DON'T camp together with all our trailers) and don't seem to have this problem.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

No. I've just done the math with full tank of water and added up all the supplies on board that have any significant weight and I'm well below the max weight. Family members who have very similar trailers carry at least as much weight or more than me on theirs and they are not having this problem. But weighing it with all the equipment will be my next step for sure...

Sorry, but that's still a guestimate at best. Spend $15 and get it weighed so that you KNOW rather than estimate/guess. Unless those other trailers you camp with are identical to yours in every way, what they can do is not germane to yours. Get your trailer specs (GAWRs, GVWR, and CCC (Cargo Capacity) and then get actual weights to compare.

The frequency at which you are replacing springs has to mean one or more of these:

• The axles are overloaded
• The axles are undersized for the trailer's GVWR rating (see #1)
• You are hitting potholes or curbs with regularity
• You are using the wrong criteria for the replacement decision

 

[zapatasghost]

Sorry, but that's still a guestimate at best. Spend $15 and get it weighed so that you KNOW rather than estimate/guess. Unless those other trailers you camp with are identical to yours in every way, what they can do is not germane to yours. Get your trailer specs (GAWRs, GVWR, and CCC (Cargo Capacity) and then get actual weights to compare.

The frequency at which you are replacing springs has to mean one or more of these:

• The axles are overloaded
• The axles are undersized for the trailer's GVWR rating (see #1)
• You are hitting potholes or curbs with regularity
• You are using the wrong criteria for the replacement decision

Point taken. I will definitely get her weighed. Axles are stock to the trailer, so likely not the problem as far as being undersized (see the weight/specs sticker photo to make sure I'm not misreading it for max weight). With the last bullet - what would you consider the right criteria for replacement? I'm a pretty cautious driver to the point of driving my fellow trailer owners crazy when they follow me to camp. Yes, I do pull her on a few dirt roads but nothing close to extreme. The ONLY curb check I've ever done was literally the first time I pulled her in 2014. Again, I'm having a hard time believing that the equalizers and/or entire suspension system simply needs replacing as I'm sure a repair shop would love to sell me.

If I read my specs right (see the photo) Max cargo capacity is 1369 lbs. Correct my math as needed; A full 50 (+10 gallon hot water tank) gallon tank of water weighs 503 lbs at most. That leaves me over 700 lbs of cargo to get near my max. I carry a camp stove that weighs 75lbs, 3 bins of supplies that each weigh 40lbs or less - 120 lbs, solar panel kit 40lbs. All are rounded up and any of those I can relocate to the truck bed as needed obviously (wood, jack, coolers, other tools all always go in back of truck NOT on the trailer). No generator, no other tools or equipment other than normal kitchen stuff (mostly plastic - no heavy cast-iron or other similar items). All of that leaves me over 700lbs of wiggle room. Not challenging you - just typing it all out to check myself too! Am I wrong or is 730lbs of wiggle room not quite a bit? Thanks so much for challenging my logic...as I said, I do still plan on getting it weighed fully loaded to be sure.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

It's not unheard of for a trailer manufacturer to install an incorrect axle (doesn't match specs). Rare, and normally I would be skeptical of that, but multiple spring replacements in 12 years? With relatively low usage? Something is wrong and even rare events have to be considered.

Your trailer specs say there should be 1369 lbs of cargo capacity and federal law says that number has to be within 100 lbs of actual. Again, mistakes have been known to happen, but let's assume it is on target. You've identified 503+120+40 lbs of add-ons, but all those little extras add up more than most expect. What about sheets & blankets? Clothing, cooking utensils, dinner ware, water & sewer hoses, food & beverages in the fridge, etc. Experience has shown that pencil & paper estimates of added weight are notoriously inaccurate; thus the emphasis on a scaled weight.

You stated the springs are "flattening out". Without original vs "flattened" its hard to judge how severe the problem was each time you replaced.. I don't know how much is "too flat" but maybe yours weren't as bad as you thought. Was the suspension bottoming out? Tires wearing in odd ways? Tough to judge, but again, it's a possibility to consider.

 

[zapatasghost]

It's not unheard of for a trailer manufacturer to install an incorrect axle (doesn't match specs). Rare, and normally I would be skeptical of that, but multiple spring replacements in 12 years? With relatively low usage? Something is wrong and even rare events have to be considered.

Your trailer specs say there should be 1369 lbs of cargo capacity and federal law says that number has to be within 100 lbs of actual. Again, mistakes have been known to happen, but let's assume it is on target. You've identified 503+120+40 lbs of add-ons, but all those little extras add up more than most expect. What about sheets & blankets? Clothing, cooking utensils, dinner ware, water & sewer hoses, food & beverages in the fridge, etc. Experience has shown that pencil & paper estimates of added weight are notoriously inaccurate; thus the emphasis on a scaled weight.

You stated the springs are "flattening out". Without original vs "flattened" its hard to judge how severe the problem was each time you replaced.. I don't know how much is "too flat" but maybe yours weren't as bad as you thought. Was the suspension bottoming out? Tires wearing in odd ways? Tough to judge, but again, it's a possibility to consider.

TrailerSource wants $300 & a week or two just to diagnose it...so you can see why I'm doing my due diligence to problems solve myself as much as possible. Unfortunately, I don't have the capacity to jack my trailer and replace a suspension system myself - wish I did! Yes, always a possibility that Nash/Northwoods made a mistake in their manufacturing...maybe a separate post? Thanks again

 

[Kirk]

Are you replacing the springs based upon how they look to you, or some other reason?

 

[CharlesinGA]

As Gary noted, weigh the truck and trailer.

With the Weight Distribution hitch bars disengaged or loose, weigh the truck and trailer together as ready for travel, full gas tank, water tank, all the stuff you cram in the truck and trailer.

Then weigh the truck alone, with the hitch head in the receiver, and your weight distribution bars in the back of the truck at the tailgate.

1) take the rig combined weight and subtract the truck alone weight from it. THE RESULT IS THE TRAILER WEIGHT.
2) Take the trailer axle weight and subtract it from the trailer weight you just calculated. THE RESULT IS THE TONGUE WEIGHT.

In the underside shot of the axles, the forward spring (to the left) is quite flattened out compared to the aft spring. With a 7000 lb trailer, I would expect to see 3500 lb axles (they should not carry max load due to tongue weight being part of the 7000). Some springs are of poor quality Chinese steel. I see you are running the thin shackles, and the plastic bushings. You should change to the thick shackles with greaseable bolts and bronze bushings. Those thin shackles allow the trailer to wobble side to side slightly on the springs, not something you can see as much as something you can feel. Actually you don't feel it until you install the thick shackles, suddenly you realize how much smoother and more stable the trailer tows.

If you have shackles that are 2-1/4 inch center to center, this is the kit you would use

Dexter Heavy-Duty Suspension Kit for Tandem-Axle Trailers - 1-3/4" Wide Double Eye Springs

From looking at the pics, I really feel like your springs are too long, you expect to see the shackles more splayed out that what you have. However, too long can also be because the springs are flattened. They lengthen as they flatten. You may be experiencing the end of the springs impacting the center (equalizer) hanger. This can put a lot of stress on the springs.

Question? where are the springs breaking? Main leaf right above the end of the leaf below it?, at the end eyes? or somewhere else.

Note the difference in the curvature of the front spring vs the rear? and note how cocked the equalizer is. Is the trailer level in the pic? Is it level when you tow?

EDIT: What is the center to center distance of the axles? 31 inch, 33 inch, or 35 inch. I will say up front, that the equalizer you have (Lippert Equa-Flex) is probably not suited to a 31 inch axle spacing.

 

[zapatasghost]

Are you replacing the springs based upon how they look to you, or some other reason?

After replacing the entire set of leaf springs on both sides (dual axle) in 2020 because one broke on one side then later that same year one on the other side broke, just had one break again on my last trip.

 

[zapatasghost]

As Gary noted, weigh the truck and trailer.

With the Weight Distribution hitch bars disengaged or loose, weigh the truck and trailer together as ready for travel, full gas tank, water tank, all the stuff you cram in the truck and trailer.

Then weigh the truck alone, with the hitch head in the receiver, and your weight distribution bars in the back of the truck at the tailgate.

1) take the rig combined weight and subtract the truck alone weight from it. THE RESULT IS THE TRAILER WEIGHT.
2) Take the trailer axle weight and subtract it from the trailer weight you just calculated. THE RESULT IS THE TONGUE WEIGHT.

In the underside shot of the axles, the forward spring (to the left) is quite flattened out compared to the aft spring. With a 7000 lb trailer, I would expect to see 3500 lb axles (they should not carry max load due to tongue weight being part of the 7000). Some springs are of poor quality Chinese steel. I see you are running the thin shackles, and the plastic bushings. You should change to the thick shackles with greaseable bolts and bronze bushings. Those thin shackles allow the trailer to wobble side to side slightly on the springs, not something you can see as much as something you can feel. Actually you don't feel it until you install the thick shackles, suddenly you realize how much smoother and more stable the trailer tows.

View attachment 2489375

If you have shackles that are 2-1/4 inch center to center, this is the kit you would use

Dexter Heavy-Duty Suspension Kit for Tandem-Axle Trailers - 1-3/4" Wide Double Eye Springs
View attachment 2489360

From looking at the pics, I really feel like your springs are too long, you expect to see the shackles more splayed out that what you have. However, too long can also be because the springs are flattened. They lengthen as they flatten. You may be experiencing the end of the springs impacting the center (equalizer) hanger. This can put a lot of stress on the springs.

Question? where are the springs breaking? Main leaf right above the end of the leaf below it?, at the end eyes? or somewhere else.

Note the difference in the curvature of the front spring vs the rear? and note how cocked the equalizer is. Is the trailer level in the pic? Is it level when you tow?

EDIT: What is the center to center distance of the axles? 31 inch, 33 inch, or 35 inch. I will say up front, that the equalizer you have (Lippert Equa-Flex) is probably not suited to a 31 inch axle spacing.

View attachment 2489378

I measure 31" center to center on the axles - I do notice the Dexters you reference are for 33". So maybe those stock Equa flex equalizers are not right as well as the spindly shackles? I did see clearly how cockeyed those equalizers seem to be. The trailer is level front to back in the pics but not side to side (as you can see, it's on the side of a street). Maybe if I back it into my driveway and get it level both front to back as well as side to side, then see? It does tow pretty level (photo of it on the hitch on the truck - yes, even though it doesn't look like it, the tongue jack is off the ground). Also see the photos of the broken leaf spring (orange strap was just to try to stabilize the wheel away from the other to get it into the shop). I'm also all out of whack on new and old leaf springs. I already included photos of the new compared to the old (all replaced in 2020). I only replaced the broken one this time around just to get home from Wyoming.

Yes, I will do the weighing protocols you recommend for sure. Which equalizer would you recommend? The Dexter? What about MORryde or others?

Also, do you think it would be advisable to change out the leaf springs to 4 leaf/pack vs the 3 leaf/pack I already have on? I know that can make for a stiffer ride but maybe higher load capacity?

Thanks so much for so much detail...very helpful.

 

[Kirk]

If I am looking at this right, the top leaf broke right at the point of contact with the second leaf. Is that correct? And did all of them break at that same location? And always at the end away from the center pivot? If so, that should be a significant clue to the problem. Of course, do weigh the rig as well to know for sure what the weight on the axels is.

 

[zapatasghost]

Kirk, You’re correct - they all broke at that point.

 

[RV_Lee122]

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