Replacing a Black Tank Valve Inside an Insulated Belly Pan

[Trooper#1]

Hi all,
I have a 2001 Arctic Fox 22GQ in which all of a sudden the black tank valve just doesn't quite close and so leaks into the plumbing. The tanks and plumbing are in an insulated box underneath, and it seems the only way I can get the outlet side of the box to drop down so I can access the valve is if I cut the outlet pipe, as it is too large to fit through the hole in the insulated box.
I'm reluctant to do this and make this job harder, and so I thought of cutting the box around the pipe so it fal;ls and allows me access to the valve. When repaired/replaced, I would screw a rubber flap where I've cut the box, with a hole in it big enough for the existing pipe.
That way it would be easier to access if needed in the future. What are your thoughts?
Also, the insulation in the bottom of the box is 25 years old.....what about replacing it with insulation board instead of battens of fibreglass?

Any thoughts appreciated....thanks.

 

[TheBar]

Cutting the box might cause it to crack and fly off driving down the road. The PVC pipe looks like a standard size and would be a 15 minute repair. I would buy a 4" PVC drain coupling at Lowe's and match it up to the pipe. Then if it looks like it will fit use it to patch the pipe back together. I would replace the fiberglass insulation with foam board.

 

[Rene T]

How about just remove your cleanliness cap and mount a twist on valve at the sewer outlet to serve as a backup valve. When you drain your gray water tank, that will flush out the smaller line. This way you won’t have any surprises when it comes to removing your end cap

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The PVC pipe looks like a standard size...

For the record, that's ABS pipe, not PVC, but should be a standard size.

I'd probably cut that section away as you suggest but plan on screwing a metal reinforcement plate across the top before sealing it back up with that rubber or whatever. Just to be sure it is mechanically sound.

 

[Derby6]

Rene T has a great idea. This one maybe?

 

[Utclmjmpr]

My brother had a similar problem with his coach,,you could not "see" if anything was in the system before removing the end cap and maybe get an unpleasant surprise.. I devised a end cap that was clear and with a drain valve made onto it to remove the question before getting a surprise..>>>Dan

 

[Kirk]

I thought of cutting the box around the pipe so it fal;ls and allows me access to the valve.

If that would enable you to lower the box clear of the plumbing, I think it would be the best approach. As Gary suggested, it would be wise to add some type of backing to make sure that the plastic has the needed strength and replacing the insulation could not harm.

 

[Trooper#1]

Thanks to all for their input...
I think I'm going to go with just cutting the top part of the insulated box out which will allow the pan to drop and reveal the plumbing.
i would love to have just put the gate on as Rene T suggested, but when taking things apart I can clearly see the pull wire is bent, and the gate does not fully close....I also suspect the gaskets are done after all these years....they are original as far as I know!!
As a result, I'm going to replace both valve and cable...I figure after 25 years they are due
As far as the insulation board goes to replace the fibreglass insulation, is there an R value that I should consider, and is more necessarily better?
Thanks again.

 

[Kirk]

As far as the insulation board goes to replace the fibreglass insulation, is there an R value that I should consider, and is more necessarily better?

The R value of most insulation is directly dependent on the thickness of that insulation. If you haven't had problems with freezing in the past, then it shouldn't need more than it has had in the past.

 

[Trooper#1]

So to continue the saga of my black tank valve....now that I've managed to remove the belly pan and dispose of the old insulation, I found this bracket in the bottom of it, right below the hole that the cable pull comes out of....can anyone tell me if this was some sort of support/bracket retainer for the cable inside the belly pan?

I assume the wiring in the second photo is for the sensors?

Lastly, I cannot find any local dealers that carry a replacement Valterra cable waste valve with a 36" cable....how easy/hard is it to get one with a longer cable and just cut it to length, or would you advise getting the complete unit if I can find one?

Thanks all.

 

[IBTripping]

I think etrailer.com will have what you want.

 

[Trooper#1]

So to continue the saga of my black tank valve....now that I've managed to remove the belly pan and dispose of the old insulation, I found this bracket in the bottom of it, right below the hole that the cable pull comes out of....can anyone tell me if this was some sort of support/bracket retainer for the cable inside the belly pan?

I assume the wiring in the second photo is for the sensors?

Lastly, I cannot find any local dealers that carry a replacement Valterra cable waste valve with a 36" cable....how easy/hard is it to get one with a longer cable and just cut it to length, or would you advise getting the complete unit if I can find one?

Thanks all.

 

[Trooper#1]

sorry about forgetting to add the photos.....old age!!!!!

 

[Derby6]

Looking here you could just shorten them if need be.

 

[richclover]

Second photo = sensors.