Resealing an Itasca Horizon Front Cap

Thread Summary

Summarized on:
Original Member Title: reseal front cap
This AI-generated summary may contain inaccuracies. Please refer to the full thread for complete details.
Brad asked what to use to reseal the front cap on a 2004 Itasca Horizon, noting that Dicor self-leveling sealant did not seem suitable for vertical seams and asking about product compatibility. Members generally agreed that self-leveling Dicor should only be used on horizontal roof areas, while vertical seams need a non-leveling sealant.

  • One member recommended removing as much old caulk as possible, applying Dicor non-leveling sealant on the sides first, then using Dicor self-leveling...
More...

Brad Buchanan

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2024
Posts
238
Hey all!

I need to reseal the front cap on our 04 Itasca Horizon.

I have been looking at Dicor self leveling however I don't think that it will do well on the vertical seams.

Also I want to make sure the products will adhere to each other.

Looking for recommendations on what products to use and also advise from someone that has done this job.

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided.

Brad Buchanan
 
Dicor is my favorite caulking but use self-leveling only on the top as it would run if used on the vertical sides. For the vertical parts, use Dicor Non-leveling. I have always removed as much of the old caulking as possible, then apply new. I also do the sides first, then the top so that the new sealant on the sides will prevent what is used on the top from running down. The reason for using self-leveling on the top is that it will run down into any gaps.
 
Instead of caulk I reseal everything on the roof with Eternabond. I did this 12 years ago and haven't needed to caulk anything on the roof since. Should be good for another 8 years.

Caulk has its place like around side seams, doors, windows, etc. But not anywhere on the roof.
 
Instead of caulk I reseal everything on the roof with Eternabond. I did this 12 years ago and haven't needed to caulk anything on the roof since. Should be good for another 8 years.

Caulk has its place like around side seams, doors, windows, etc. But not anywhere on the roof.
I have heard of that.

My unit is full paint. What does eternabond look like on the surface?
 
Instead of caulk I reseal everything on the roof with Eternabond. I did this 12 years ago and haven't needed to caulk anything on the roof since. Should be good for another 8 years.

Caulk has its place like around side seams, doors, windows, etc. But not anywhere on the roof.
Thanks. That is kinda what I was considering.
 
Eternabond is a great product but I have reservations about its use on a front cap top seam. Especially on that vintage of coach, where front cap movement was a common problem in many brands. One thing that Dicor 501LSW is excellent for is stretching as the two surfaces move sideways and/or pull apart. Plus it is available in colors (though most RV stores only stock white). I'm not saying you should avoid Eternabond, but I wouldn't hesitate to use the Dicor.

As for vertical seams on a fiberglass coach, do NOT use any self-leveling sealant. That would be a a real mistake. Geocel Proflex RV is a top choice and available in colors too. Another is the 3M Flexiclear Body Seamseal.
 
Eternabond is a great product but I have reservations about its use on a front cap top seam. Especially on that vintage of coach, where front cap movement was a common problem in many brands. One thing that Dicor 501LSW is excellent for is stretching as the two surfaces move sideways and/or pull apart.
You aren't supposed to stretch Eternabond when applying it because that thins it and weakens the adhesion. But it will stretch like a rubber balloon and never come loose after application.

If you've ever used Eternabond you know how stretchy and sticky it is. The 12 year old tape on my roof is still as flexible as new. It will probable still stretch by at least 1/3 of its width before separating. And it was in full sun for 10 years before I put it in covered storage.

I only use clear Geocel Proflex on all of my visible seams but like all caulk it gets as hard as a rock after 4 years in the MS sun.
 
The Itasca Horizon has a fiberglass roof that the cap fits over on the front. Many times the cap barely covers the front edge of the fiberglass. On that seam, across the coach from one gutter to the other, I would seriously consider the Eternabond tape. Same for the rear cap. There has been more than one account of the fiberglass flying off the roof when it separates from the thin luan plywood underneath it.

Find Youtube videos by AZExpert on redoing Winnebago roofs.
 
When we had hail damage that punched a fist-sized hole through our cap, the guy repairing it didn’t do a good job of sealing. The repair guys are Precision RV in Red Bay re-sealed it using CRL silicon sealant. That is what was used on our fiberglass cap from the factory.
 
When we had hail damage that punched a fist-sized hole through our cap, the guy repairing it didn’t do a good job of sealing. The repair guys are Precision RV in Red Bay re-sealed it using CRL silicon sealant. That is what was used on our fiberglass cap from the factory.
This unit was originally sealed with dicor products. I don't think the silicone would play nice with them.
 
Full body paint you want Geocel Proflex clear where it'll be visible. If its a fiberglass roof you want Hengs Self Leveling silicone. That will not stick to dicor / lap sealant, so only use if its still wearing silicone
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom