Restoring a Rotted 1993 Coachmen Catalina Roof and Walls

[preacherman2014]

I was recently given a 1993 Coachmen Catalina 250RB by one of my congregation members as a project. I knew it had water damage when they gave it to me, I just didn't know the extent. Today, I emptied it of all the clutter inside of it and started "poking around".

Discoveries:
1) it has a metal roof, with holes in it; I have managed to very temporarily seal the holes.
2) Much (re: more than 50%, maybe even 75%) of the insulation, 50% of the roofing "joists" (don't know what they are called in the RV world), and the wooden boards are completely rotted out; they are 2 x2x 8 boards.
3) Many of the side boards where the leaks in the roof are\were are rotted.
4) Parts of the floor are rotted.

Good news:
The cabinets in the kitchen area are in good condition.
It has good "bones", as it were.

I have the skills and know how to do the work(good old youtube university); so...

Questions:
1) If you were me, in what order would you do things?
2) It has 3 skylights (small, 6x6?) skylights in it, in addition to the bathroom vent "skylight". I have determined that I can unscrew the trim on the roof, as it is one solid piece of sheet metal, then replace "joists", then put 7?16 osb (which is also rotted) back on, then put a 6mil plastic sheet on that (for further waterproofing and a vapor barrier) then put the roof back on, putting down butyl tape\trim as I go. When I do, do I HAVE to put new skylights in, or can I put sheet metal squares over where the skylights used to be (properly attaching\sealing the pieces as I do). If I did that, the only "holes" in the roof would be the a/c unit and the sewer pipes.

I DO not plan on putting on a rubber roof, just form a sheer cost perspective; that and the sheet metal\metal roof is still sound, minus the small holes that can be properly sealed up.

I don't know if this will make a difference or not, but it is a 5th wheel style rv camper; the main bed sits "over" the bed of the truck when attached.

Thanks to any and all for the advice. I do ask that you only comment if you have positive advice or recommendations....don't comment and be a naysayer or a pessimist.

 

[Wmlunt-WO]

Metal roofs are very noisy in the rain, be aware of the noise.

 

[weighit]

If your able to either be in a garage or under some sun/rain protection, I would start by totally removing the roof. If the wood trusses are rotted like you say, make sure the attaching walls are sound. Since your going to lay down a thin wood roofing after replacing the rotten cross beams I would go the extra cost and frame in the sky openings and then get the rubber roof and the proper glue. Not only a nicer roof over keeping the metal, but will be quieter and look great. Do a good job once and then enjoy your workmanship.

 

[preacherman2014]

If your able to either be in a garage or under some sun/rain protection, I would start by totally removing the roof. If the wood trusses are rotted like you say, make sure the attaching walls are sound. Since your going to lay down a thin wood roofing after replacing the rotten cross beams I would go the extra cost and frame in the sky openings and then get the rubber roof and the proper glue. Not only a nicer roof over keeping the metal, but will be quieter and look great. Do a good job once and then enjoy your workmanship.

If your able to either be in a garage or under some sun/rain protection, I would start by totally removing the roof. If the wood trusses are rotted like you say, make sure the attaching walls are sound. Since your going to lay down a thin wood roofing after replacing the rotten cross beams I would go the extra cost and frame in the sky openings and then get the rubber roof and the proper glue. Not only a nicer roof over keeping the metal, but will be quieter and look great. Do a good job once and then enjoy your workmanship.

If I decided to do the rubber roof route, what brand would you recommend? I follow "fallenintocamping" on youtube and she says recpro.... are all rubber roofs created equal? I'd need a 8 ft wide by 30 ft long run...unless there's another way to do it....
I

 

[preacherman2014]

Metal roofs are very noisy in the rain, be aware of the noise.

Any way that you know of to "dull" the sounds? I really don't want to spend $700 on a rubber roof....

 

[Domo]

1. Keep the water out - in other words, fix the roof, coat with roll on roof sealant such as made by Dicor or other to help some of the noise. Look for and repair and soft spots in the floor.
2. Remove all sources of mildew/rot to make the inside healthier rather than a lung death zone. Perhaps, once to the bones, use an ozone generator to help remove smell and kill mold - however, realize ozone can eat the plastics and discolor fabric so don't overdo it and you should not be inside when you treat it.
3. Bug bomb - just in case.
4. Test and repair all appliances/electronics while the walls are opened (at least some of them).
5.Add boric acid powder (ant and roach killer - works on all bugs) inside any wall cavities and under any base cabinets you re-install so the eventual bugs will die without using a heave poison to people and pets.

Take pictures to record this part of your "journey" so you can look back and brag and feel good about what you are creating.

 

[Isaac-1]

I hate to say it, but it sounds like this will be a slow motion demolition of rotted material until you get down to just the frame.

 

[Derby6]

....don't comment and be a naysayer or a pessimist.

I hate to say it, but it sounds like this will be a slow motion demolition of rotted material until you get down to just the frame.

What he said. If roof, sides, and floor have rot that may be where you are headed. Hopefully you have a covered area to work with or you will be tarping and untarping a lot.
I’d start by removing roof. Then sides down as needed.
Floor can be done after sides and roof.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Any way that you know of to "dull" the sounds? I really don't want to spend $700 on a rubber roof....

Coat it with Henry's Tropi-cool roof coat. The thick silicone will deaden the sound. And seal pinholes & cracks as well as reflecting the sun..

 

[nibroc]

sounds like a very hard job

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

If you were me, in what order would you do things?

If the roof substrate and cross-members are as rotten as you describe, get it under cover (or have a BIG tarp handy) and tear the roof off. You need to replace the thin plywood substrate and probably the cross-members too. And mostly likely the insulation as well. Seems doubtful you will be able to save the metal roof, but maybe with enough care it can be salvaged.

It has 3 skylights (small, 6x6?) skylights in it, in addition to the bathroom vent "skylight". I have determined that I can unscrew the trim on the roof, as it is one solid piece of sheet metal, then replace "joists", then put 7?16 osb (which is also rotted) back on, then put a 6mil plastic sheet on that (for further waterproofing and a vapor barrier) then put the roof back on, putting down butyl tape\trim as I go. When I do, do I HAVE to put new skylights in, or can I put sheet metal squares over where the skylights used to be (properly attaching\sealing the pieces as I do). If I did that, the only "holes" in the roof would be the a/c unit and the sewer pipes.

No need to replace those little skylights if you don't need the light.

I wish you good luck. This is going to be a long and arduous job. And you haven't even started on the rotted floor yet. Expensive too, at today's wood prices.

 

[TheBar]

You may have house construction skills but be aware an RV is nothing like a house.

An RV is built to be lightweight. The frame, suspension, and tires will not support the weight of conventional house construction. Otherwise the tires may blow or it may come apart on the highway.

 

[Kirk]

If you were me, in what order would you do things? ~ I really don't want to spend $700 on a rubber roof....

I would caution you to make the best estimate of costs that you can before you start. It is highly probable that you will spend more to repair it than it would cost to buy a 1993 Coachmen Catalina 250RB. I believe that it is about 25' in length and 8' wide. If it were in like new condition, you might be able to get $4000 to $5000 for it. In average condition, much less. I would get it inside out of the weather first, then address the walls first since they support the roof. Only if most of the walls are in good condition would I tackle fixing the roof first. Remember that the walls must support the weight of the roof and everything in or on it.

You will spend far more than $700.

 

[preacherman2014]

I would caution you to make the best estimate of costs that you can before you start. It is highly probable that you will spend more to repair it than it would cost to buy a 1993 Coachmen Catalina 250RB. I believe that it is about 25' in length and 8' wide. If it were in like new condition, you might be able to get $4000 to $5000 for it. In average condition, much less. I would get it inside out of the weather first, then address the walls first since they support the roof. Only if most of the walls are in good condition would I tackle fixing the roof first. Remember that the walls must support the weight of the roof and everything in or on it.

You will spend far more than $700.

Kirk, that is great advice that I honestly hadn't considered....thank you for that. I haven't spent any money yet, only some sweat. I can easily continue to tear down the walls and see what kind of condition they are in. Thank you for chiming in...much appreciated.

 

[DutchmenSport]

Yours sounds very similar to one my mother and father-in-law purchased several years ago. It was a $500 purchase (real price) with a $10,000 (exaggerated here) repair bill.

The unit had a metal roof that leaked bad. It was repaired to some resemblance of functionality, but nothing like original. The ceiling was replaced from inside the camper. About 2/3 of the roof had to be replaced as it was totally rotted out (much more extensive than expected).

The walls were completely rotted out. The interior paneling was removed, it crumbled. The only thing holding the camper together was the aluminum skin (really). Wall by wall we put in new studs and reattached the aluminum siding. It was a massive endeavor for such a small travel trailer.

It took about a year and I helped my father-in-law several weekends when I was off work. Now, they lived on a farm and the rebuild was done inside a barn that wasn't being used by livestock. Once things started coming down, (disassembled), it led to yet another area that we did not know was rotted also, so the demolition continued a bit farther and farther. It was a labor of love for sure, a labor of patients, and just labor listening to my mother-in-law attempting to be the boss of everything!

Basically, it was a nightmare experience I never want to tackle again.

The best advise I can give you is, get the camper under cover, plan on at least a year of work, plan on spending money, and do everything you can to restore it back to it's original construction. Once you go off rail and improvise because it looks easier than turning it back to original, it will, in the long run, cost you even more time, money, and energy. You save nothing and you may even give up and abandon the entire project out of frustration or cost. Patients is key here.

A camper in the condition you described WILL have more issues than you can physically see on the surface. Once you dig into it, it will be either a fight or flight experience. Good luck!

Edit:
But, on a true positive side, hundreds of people have restored old travel trailers and RV back to mint condition. It can be done! And if this is your quest, you CAN do it too!

 

[woof-n]

I love a science project. But I caution you with that in mind, as previously stated, doing the math and comparing it to buying a nice comparable is good advice. RVs can be full hard work and disappointment. There is never a red X locating all of leaks.

I was once told a free dog will cost you two thousand dollars and new pair of shoes. That advice does not just apply to dogs. Good luck.

 

[TheBar]

Trying to keep this positive. After you have removed all the rotted portions the bare frame can be covered with a wood deck and sold as a flat bed trailer.

 

[LarsMac]

Well, Preacherman, you are in for an adventure. I hope that you let us follow along.

 

[garyr1]

What are your skills? Electrical, carpentry, plumbing? Do you do all your repairs at home, on your vehicles? Do you have the tools and equipment to tackle this? This is a major project that is going to require tens of thousands of dollars and hundreds (thousands?) of hours. 'Free' RV rebuilds very often turn into time and money pits and are never finished. It's not negativity to say step back and honestly assess if you have the skills, time, money and persistence to follow through.

Right now you're at the point you don't know what you don't know. That's not a bad place to be unless you jump into this without educating yourself and making logical decisions. $700 for the roofing material is a pittance of the final cost. What kind of budget do you have? $10,000 wouldn't be unreasonable, you doing ALL the labor, from the sound of the extensive rot, floor to ceiling. Have you looked at the frame? Salt destroys them. All the appliances are well past their life expectancy, what works, what doesn't? Look at their costs online, wander around Lowe's or HD, price lumber, flooring, screws and nails. Do you have a truck capable of hauling it?

At this point you really need honest introspection, you know your skills, monetary situation, and persistence better than us.

 

[Seilerbird]

I would give it away and forget the whole thing. It will never be usable again.