Roof Repair

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Barry J

Active member
Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Posts
28
We have a 2003 Four Winds Camper with a 3ft x 3ft "soft spot, where it looks like the wood underneath has rotted away, which make an big indentation in the roofing material. At this point I am afraid that a tree branch will fall on it and punch the roof. Uncovered water builds up in the indentation from rain. Right now I have it covered with a piece of wood and a tarp. Asked for some estimates on fixing and get from $5,000-$8,000 to redo the whole roof, on-site since it is on a Camp ground lot, and does not move, it is attached to a Florida room.

My question is, that if needed, could I get a piece of metal, and glue or eternabond it down to the roof to cover the spot and protect it. and then seal around it, for a quick fix.

Any suggestions

Thanks

Barry
 

QZ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2017
Posts
556
Any port in a storm. If it's not falling in on the inside and mold damage why not. It usually not worth putting big money in most rv since you never get a return on it.

My son had a leak around ac unit and they priced it at $5500 or $3500 if they just cut the epdm and cut out the bad area then glue it back down and dicor the cut seams. That's exactly what we did with it. It didn't take all that long and $200 or so for one panel, glue and dicor. It is what it is.

Do you know where it's leaking get that stopped too
 

youracman

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Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
275
Location
Denver, CO
Barry wrote  "........could I get a piece of metal, and glue or eternabond it down to the roof to cover the spot and protect it. and then seal around it, for a quick fix."

IMHO..... with Eternabond your fix will be "almost"  permanent.  If your roof is arched, you will probably want to use some screws (maybe panhead?) around the periphery of the sheet metal to avoid any preload on the Eternabond, then use the 4" Eternabond  to overlap the screw heads.  Maybe across the lower edge of the arched roof, skip the Eternabond and just put a good sealant (no silicone though) over the screw heads to allow rain to drain away from the metal completely (with no little puddle at the upper Eternabond tape edge?)

Just about everyone who has used Eternabond has been impressed with it ............. but follow the pre-cleaning directions and know that pressure with a roller is your friend as pressure is  what "makes it tick".

Like your idea.  'Twill be interesting  to see what others think.  Lots of innovative folks on this forum, for sure.

Best...................... ed s
 

Barry J

Active member
Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Posts
28
There are a few different types of eternabond, which one should I get for this job
 

youracman

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Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
275
Location
Denver, CO
This is what I used to seal the front cap-to-roof seam on my coach.  It has been up there about 2 years now and looks like the day I applied it.  Pretty impressive stuff but you want to do the prep work to have a clean surface and then just know that pressure is your friend when you apply it............I used a hard rubber roller about 2-1/2" wide or so.  Also,  try to let it fall naturally into place (no stretching).  A guide line drawn on your roof would be a good thing; once it is in place you can't move it to straighten your line; it's  not gonna let go.  I bought the 20-ft roll to have some extra to use on my rear cap-to-roof joint/seam in the future. I also used the Eternabond brand cleaner, but a lot of folks think it is just brake cleaner that has been re-branded......I believe they are correct.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AYPCJ9G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best of luck, Barry.
 

blw2

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Joined
Aug 9, 2012
Posts
3,325
Location
Saint Johns, FL
Barry J said:
There are a few different types of eternabond, which one should I get for this job

are you asking which type to add a sheet a metal just big enough to cover the mystery spot?

My thought is that if it's soft, there's a reason.  If it's from a leak then you have rot....
If it were me I'd open it up for a look.  If there is wet wood, rot, or whatever I'd cut it out.  I wouldn't want it sealed up inside festering...
and I'd figure out why/where it's leaking

and if my goal was to jury rig a repair good enough for stationary use for a while......
and this is just "thinking out loud" here.... but I think I'd try to cut the roof membrane like a flap I could peel back to get at the area in question.  After doing whatever needs to be done I'd bring the flap back down, using adhesive if necessary.  Then I'd give the seam a good workover with self leveling caulk.  Then if I still felt the need to go over that area with a small piece of metal as discussed, then I think I'd probably stick the metal down with doublestick eternabond under it around the perimeter, then cover the edges with the standard roof repair tape (it has the plastic uv cover over it, for use in exposed applications.

I'm no eternabond expert.  I've only worked with it on one job.  I did a lot of research ahead of that though to become familiar.  There are some issues...such as being very careful to not stretch the tape while installing...because it will fail if not done right.  Check eternabond's site, they have a very comprehensive selection of tech data sheets / instructions...and also videos about all of the different types of tape they sell.  I think taht will help you better understand your options.
 

72cougarxr7

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Joined
Jan 6, 2018
Posts
54
Location
Watertown NY
The EPDM rubber roof material is cheap enough. You can buy from online sources, Ebay, Amazon etc.
Typically comes in 8.5 foot width and order whatever length you need.
Online seems to be selling for around $12 per running foot ($12 will get you a 1ft by 8.5 ft piece, $24 will get you a 2ft by 8.5 ft piece etc) and many places offer free shipping.
I'm not there so I cant see the exact situation you are dealing with, but from your description, here is what I would do.
I would use a utility knife and cut back the rubber roofing. Cut out any damaged plywood and replace with new
get a piece of the rubber roofing cut a bit larger than the repair so it can overlap. I would shoot for a 3-4 inch overlap.
Glue down your rubber roofing, seal the edges with self leveling lap sealant and go over the seam again with Eternabond tape for an extra measure of protection on the seam.

That said, not sure what your DIY abilities are or your physical limitations, if any.
If this kind of repair is over your head, the metal patch sounds workable.

As others have said, if the roof has a soft spot like that, there is water getting in somewhere. It is very important to carefully inspect the roof for any cracks or tears.
Check any seam or transition, and check around all your plumbing vents, skylights, antenna, fridge vent etc.
Where the siding meets the roof in the front and rear are common spots for leaks.
Scrape off any loose, shrunken or cracked calk and recaulk with a proper RV caulk/lap sealant. (NO SILICONE!)
If you find any tears in the roof membrane, clean the surface and use Eternabond tape or lap sealant to seal it up.
 

cerd

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Joined
May 29, 2018
Posts
621
Location
MN
I wouldn't bother trying to patch it. I found a number of pin holes in my aluminum roof, which led to leaking inside and having to gut the ceiling. Thanks to an oscillating multitool, a buddy and I were able to remove every single fixture on the roof and reseal it with Ultima polyurethane sealant in only a half day. On mine, I patched the holes with stainless fender washers, a screw, and extra sealant. If I had a rubber roof, I would consider replacing the whole rubber roof. I think they cost $500 for the kit depending on the length you need.

IMO, it is worth the extra expense to not have to worry about it leaking for years to come. Plus, by removing the old roof, you are able to thoroughly analyze the damage to the wood underneath.
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Posts
8
Location
BC
How did your repair go if you did it?    Curious as i am in the same boat, peal the roof or just cover the soft spot....
 
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