RV plumbing drip questions

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

ngranneman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
Just finished my first camping trip and went pretty well. Did notice some drips underneath interested on recs for fixes then had a rookie mistake when empty water tank that curious on your guys thoughts. I have attached the 3 pics with arrow here I think there are small drips

1) Gray tank: Seems to start where the pipe changes diameter that the arrow is pointing to, don't see a crack but suspect hairline crack. Recs on fix options?
2) Low drain point: Leak seems higher up than what cap threads on and I won't if it is the fitting itself. Recs on replacing this?
3) Water tank: Seems to be where the white hose goes into the fitting. Recs on this?
4) Sooo the rookie mistake, I took the anode out without doing the release pressure valve and it shot at me along with some awesome calcium water. I'm all good, but didn't know if this could have damaged anything with the water heater itself? Treads look good on tank and anode and was able to tighten anode back on without any issues.
 

Attachments

  • gray drain.gif
    gray drain.gif
    43.4 KB · Views: 72
  • low point drain.gif
    low point drain.gif
    49.6 KB · Views: 70
  • water tank.gif
    water tank.gif
    52.9 KB · Views: 77

RVRAC

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Posts
1,512
On the low point and the water tank, I would try some kind of sealer to see if it helps.  If not I would replace the ones leaking.  I don't think you will have any problems with the water heater.  You are glad that you didn't get burned.  I am sure others will give you other recommendations.
 

Prior member

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2015
Posts
1,232
My thoughts:

On the low point one, feel the pipe and make sure the leak isn't from someplace above. If it is coming from that fitting it would have to be cut off and replaced. Lowes carries PEX fittings so you wouldn't need that special compression tool
On the fresh water connection; did you try tightening the nut?
On the gray water one, I would use West Systems G-flex epoxy

Jack L
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,496
Location
Farmington NH
Gray tank. I would take a harder look as to where the water is coming from. It may very well be from the gasket of the valve.  If it is indeed the elbow, you can buy a new one. At the same time, rebuild the valves.

On the low point drain, tighten it just a little more. Do not use wrenches for this.

The tank leak, unscrew the nut and look into it. You'll probably find a rubber seal inside the nut. When it's new, It's a cone shaped seal and you should be able to get them at any RV store. The one you remove will not be cone shaped. Once again, do not use wrenches. If you over tighten the nut, you could very easily strip the threads.

The seal is like this one:

https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/1-2p-cone-washer?variant=35122977665&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsqnpucfA4QIVEIrICh38rQk7EAQYBSABEgJk2vD_BwE
 

Gizmo100

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2018
Posts
3,029
Sounds like you got some good advise...I would only add if you have to do any work on the low point drains I would consider replacing the caps with shutoff valves.
 

ngranneman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
Any helpful videos you know of on the elbows. Looking at the tubing for the grey/black tank the connection points seem like they have probably been epoxied type of seal and not an easily removal type of seal? I feel I have isolated it to the arrow point because when put finger over that area the rest stops dripping and when remove you can see a slow accumulation of the water and then it goes to gravity and drops from the gasket valve area.  Any type of epoxy you think would work well on this since it isn't pressurized much compared to replacing it outright?

Rene T said:
Gray tank. I would take a harder look as to where the water is coming from. It may very well be from the gasket of the valve.  If it is indeed the elbow, you can buy a new one. At the same time, rebuild the valves.

On the low point drain, tighten it just a little more. Do not use wrenches for this.

The tank leak, unscrew the nut and look into it. You'll probably find a rubber seal inside the nut. When it's new, It's a cone shaped seal and you should be able to get them at any RV store. The one you remove will not be cone shaped. Once again, do not use wrenches. If you over tighten the nut, you could very easily strip the threads.

The seal is like this one:

https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/1-2p-cone-washer?variant=35122977665&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsqnpucfA4QIVEIrICh38rQk7EAQYBSABEgJk2vD_BwE
 

ngranneman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
What type of sealer are you thinking on if I go that approach?

RVRAC said:
On the low point and the water tank, I would try some kind of sealer to see if it helps.  If not I would replace the ones leaking.  I don't think you will have any problems with the water heater.  You are glad that you didn't get burned.  I am sure others will give you other recommendations.
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,496
Location
Farmington NH
On those style caps, mine were always a tapered flange to tapered mating flange seal and just tightening them just a little more should stop the leak.
How bad is it leaking. If it's a drop every hour, leave it alone. 
 

grashley

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2015
Posts
6,591
Location
Western Kentucky
I would dry the area being examined with a paper towel, removing ALL moisture, then watch to see where the new water is coming from.  The corner of the paper towel, touching a suspected point can often pick up water before the drip forms.

Once I knew exactly where it was leaking, I would use one of the suggestions above.  If it is a drip an hour, forget it!  All are below floor level, and drips will fall to the ground.

For the water heater, I did the same thing today.  System pressure had bled down, but I still got a 12 gal bath!  Cleaned the threads, added pipe dope and reinstalled.
 

cavie

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2017
Posts
397
new fitting in the low point drain. Flex seal on the other two. No pressure on them.  Heater is fine.
 

ngranneman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
Probably about a drip every 10-20 second type of thing. Alot of good options above, will keep you guys posted. By any chance, any idea on stand tubing size for the PEX in these RV?
 

ngranneman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
Also, on the last pic from my initial message I have noticed several of these black plastic circular things around the pipes. It is right before the arrow. Also see one close to my water pump. What are the purpose of these?
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,496
Location
Farmington NH
ngranneman said:
Also, on the last pic from my initial message I have noticed several of these black plastic circular things around the pipes. It is right before the arrow. Also see one close to my water pump. What are the purpose of these?

Hard to tell but it looks like it may be a tie wrap or zip ties as some people call them. They are used to tie up wiring and piping so they're not just floating around.
 

grashley

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2015
Posts
6,591
Location
Western Kentucky
I agree with Rene.  It appears to be some type of pipe support clamp.  I bet it is also attached to the bottom of the sink or other solid object.
 

ngranneman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
Ended up removing the clamp so I could pull off the connector to get replaced. Ended up being a clamp to help keep fitting onto pipe. Wasn't attached to anything else besides foot. What do you guys think on replacing the fitting with existing piping. Do you typically trim off prior piping that has markings from first fitting or do you usually put new fitting into the prior pipe.

grashley said:
I agree with Rene.  It appears to be some type of pipe support clamp.  I bet it is also attached to the bottom of the sink or other solid object.
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,496
Location
Farmington NH
If the fitting you removed had a barbed end, then yes. Cut off the end of the old pipe and install the new fitting.  You don't want the grooves inside the pipe to interfere with the new fitting.
 

ngranneman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
For the hot/cold drain lines they are blue and red standard pex I think but don't see a size on these. Are there standard sizes on these that I can use to get the new shut off drain plug ins
 

ngranneman

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Posts
60
Any particular type of hose clamp you guys like after installing new plug

Rene T said:
If the fitting you removed had a barbed end, then yes. Cut off the end of the old pipe and install the new fitting.  You don't want the grooves inside the pipe to interfere with the new fitting.
 

grashley

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2015
Posts
6,591
Location
Western Kentucky
Assuming it was a barbed fitting, I use plain radiator hose clamps that screw to tighten.  A buck each in many sizes from any hardware store.
 
Top Bottom