RV Power Converter Replacement Help Needed

MalamuteDad

New Member
Joined
May 24, 2025
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6
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Nevada
Hi all, I have a 2007 Cherokee Lite by Forest River travel trailer that I am wanting to swap out the power converter. The current one works fine, but I am wanting to upgrade to use lithium batteries in the near future.

My problem is that the current power converter is a distribution panel converter and I was able to pick up a modern (new) deck mount converter for next to nothing. Obviously the two aren't a straight swap. The AC in the current distribution panel converter hooks up via 3 wires, white, black green. The new deck mount has a typical 110v 3 prong plug. The trailer doesn't have an outlet behind the distribution panel to plug the new one in, so my thought was stripping the plug down to it's three wires (confirmed, white, black, green) and hooking it up to the distribution panel the same way the current one is hooked up.

Will I run into any issues or problems doing this? Obviously don't want to start a fire and burn my travel trailer to the ground.
 

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As Don said. No problems but I will alert you as to one and give you 3 ways to do it.

Some converters with cord have 20 amp plugs Look ing at the blades they are | -- not | |

If so you can att a 15/20 amp wall outlet ( | |-- ) or you can just cut and wire in

Look up installitation for Progressive Dynamics 4600 series... (It is designed to replace the "GUTS" of the combination unit have so the install should be the same.

Method one> Cut cord and wire it in
Method two Add outlet
Method 3 replace cord on unit with existing power wires. (I do not recommend this .)
 
So is it safer to add an outlet or to cut the cord and wire it in? I'd prefer to cut the cord and wire it in, but also want the safest option. Thanks!
 
Cutting the plug off the cord is fine because you are unlikely to ever want to plug that deck-mount in somewhere. As long as you make the wire connection properly, the two methods are equally safe. You can make the connection inside a wiring junction box or by physically splicing the wires to each other (black->black, etc).
There are YouTube videos on splicing methods if you want to study up a bit first.
 
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I think that a much bigger challenge than powering the new converter will be in taking the present one out of the system. We don't really know enough to say for sure, but that could be much more involved.
 
I think that a much bigger challenge than powering the new converter will be in taking the present one out of the system. We don't really know enough to say for sure, but that could be much more involved.
It looks like just snipping the ac and DC wires undoing the copper ground and 2 screws then should just slide out...hopefully.
 
The 13.6v output of that converter is not suitable for lithium batteries, they require mid 14v range for proper charge

Charles
Yeah, paperwork says 13.6v to 14.4v and the box says it is for lithium batteries as well as lead acid...but nothing about lithium in the paperwork...not sure what to believe.
 

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A standard lead-acid charge profile is 13.6v-14.4v and the ability of a LiFePO4 battery to accept a high rate of charge will likely keep an Lead-acid-profile charger operating at or near 14.4v rather than falling back to the 13.6v "float". However, without some specific smarts (charge profile) for lithium, it seems unlikely it would ever get a lithium battery to 100% charge. The box says it "automatically adjusts" but doesn't promise optimum performance. The3-stage charger you already have probably does the same, or nearly so. I think I would be looking for a charger that had some way to set a lithium-specific mode or profile.
 
Yeah, paperwork says 13.6v to 14.4v and the box says it is for lithium batteries as well as lead acid...but nothing about lithium in the paperwork...not sure what to believe.
If you have solar, don't worry about it. The solar will charge it up to full anyway.

Perhaps ~85% SOC even if no solar, still better than a LA, IMO.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
My problem is that the current power converter is a distribution panel converter and I was able to pick up a modern (new) deck mount converter for next to nothing. Obviously the two aren't a straight swap.
If the new converter is self-contained there's no reason to mount it in the converter panel. You can put it close to the batteries where you have AC power available and connect it directly to them. In fact, shorter wires connecting it to the batteries will let it work better than forcing the output to go through longer wires from the power center. Just make sure it has some ventilation so it can dissipate it's waste heat and include a fuse rated greater than the converter's output (so it will only blow if the batteries are accidentally connected backwards) if the converter doesn't have built-in fuses on the output.

The existing wires will carry the power back to the distribution panel, just like they do when you're boondocking.

To disable the old converter, disconnect the AC going in from the circuit breaker and the neutral buss and the (+) and (-) output wires going to the fuse board. Leave it in place as a backup, if it's ever needed all you have to do is reconnect the wires.
 
An update from the manufacturer: after contacting them directly this was their response:
"It Is not compatible with lithium LiFeP04 batteries."

Guess I'll be looking for another option.
 

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