RV Water Pump Replacement and Low Flow Troubleshooting

[Ohiosnowbird]

Our water pump hasn’t worked well since day 1. No surprise there. We’ve had to use on board water and not city water for a few days now and realize the water pump is really inadequate. Water is basically a trickle from the faucet. We’re not trying to take showers or use the washing machine, just wash up hands or a few dishes. That’s all I got from hubby. He asked me to ask you guys:

What Water pump do they recommend?
Does it need Accumulator?

Thanks in advance.

 

[zulutron]

I'm a fan of the REMCO 55 Aquajet ARV water pump. However, it's a 10A pump and 5.3 GPM. The other REMCO option is the REMCO 55 Aquajet AES pump which draws 6.5A and pumps 3.4 GPM.

 

[msw3113]

While have no pump recommendation to offer, I can say that I put an accumulator in our unit, keeping the stock pump. The "pulsing" stopped and pressure seems to be more even altogether.
Lowe's has them here

 

[Derby6]

Mine leaks a bit and was going to replace with same one..SeaFlo. 8AMP 3.0 GPM

That REMCO 55 Aquajet ARV water pump seems nice, but damn that's pricey. Its only 3.5 GPM. Much bigger too. I'd have to get in my unit and ensure I can fit it properly

 

[Patnsuzanne]

When ours developed a leak last month I opted to go with an exact replacement due to the pump being located in such tight and hard-to-reach quarters. I was afraid that any changes to the plumbing or wiring to accommodate a different brand would be nearly impossible without having to remove most of the kitchen cabinet where it is located. We were able to locate one and the swap out was a royal pain, but at least I knew that the new one was going to fit before I got started!

 

[Derby6]

Yes that is pretty much where I am at.

 

[zulutron]

That REMCO 55 Aquajet ARV water pump seems nice, but damn that's pricey. Its only 3.5 GPM. Much bigger too. I'd have to get in my unit and ensure I can fit it properly

The "AES" model is 3.4 GPM. The "ARV" is 5.3 GPM.

 

[whiteva]

If you haven't already checked the pump filter screen, I would clean it thoroughly before replacing the water pump. I have found many low flow problems are due to factory garbage in the lines (and also faucet screens)

 

[Rene T]

If you haven't already checked the pump filter screen, I would clean it thoroughly before replacing the water pump. I have found many low flow problems are due to factory garbage in the lines (and also faucet screens)

Also if you have the option to fill your tank while hooked up to city water, make sure that valve that you need to position is back to normal position. If it’s partially open or if it leaks by internally, when using the pump, some of that pump water could be flowing right back to the tank robbing water from going to the faucets

 

[Kirk]

If you haven't already checked the pump filter screen, I would clean it thoroughly before replacing the water pump.

That is true, if you have one. It is quite common for RVs to not have a filter on the water pump. If you do, it will be on the suction side of the pump, located between the pump and the water tank. If you have one, it will look something like this.

If the problem is the pump, many of the most common RV freshwater pumps have rebuild kits that are readily available and at much lower cost than a new pump.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The Remco Aquajets are pretty much the premiere RV water pumps but you pay a premium for the best. The Shurflo Smart Sensor 4 is also pretty good, but not cheap either. Most any pump capacity over 3 should be sufficient for most Rvs. Most faucets and shower heads can't pass more than 2.0 anyway.

However, your problem doesn't seem like the pump itself, so I wouldn't buy a new pump right away. Some things to investigate first include:

1. A clogged intake filter on the pump (others have already described this)
2. A clogged screen on the faucet nozzle(s) (very common)
3. The pump bypass for filling the fresh water tank from city inlet is partially open or leaking. Even a small leak there severely decreases flow from the pump. Not relevant if you don't a tank fill valve.
4. A crimp or kink in the water hose from the pump to the main line is inhibiting slow (this is rare but possible)

 

[gwinger]

With all the talk about a pump being expensive, paying 1/3 more for something that may last longer and work better is no big deal to me.
$100 vs $150??

 

[Ohiosnowbird]

If you haven't already checked the pump filter screen, I would clean it thoroughly before replacing the water pump. I have found many low flow problems are due to factory garbage in the lines (and also faucet screens)

He did this. Thanks for the thought.

 

[Ohiosnowbird]

Hubby went through your list and everything was a check. He said we don’t have a bypass pump. He’s looking at the Shurflo thing you suggested.

 

[Ohiosnowbird]

That is true, if you have one. It is quite common for RVs to not have a filter on the water pump. If you do, it will be on the suction side of the pump, located between the pump and the water tank. If you have one, it will look something like this.
View attachment 2389897
If the problem is the pump, many of the most common RV freshwater pumps have rebuild kits that are readily available and at much lower cost than a new pump.

Usually a rebuild is just what the doctor ordered with hubby but not in this case. He said he took the original pump apart and it is a bad design to start with. To quote “I’m not rebuilding that POS”. We’re the ones who had the black water tank fall off among other fun filled fixes because Thor put out a really bad unit during the pandemic which we then bought! His motto when we have to do something that feels big with our rig “better be safe than sorry”. Getting stranded with a lemon leaves a mark!

 

[Ohiosnowbird]

I'm a fan of the REMCO 55 Aquajet ARV water pump. However, it's a 10A pump and 5.3 GPM. The other REMCO option is the REMCO 55 Aquajet AES pump which draws 6.5A and pumps 3.4 GPM.

He’s looking at these as well.

 

[Rene T]

. He said we don’t have a bypass pump.

Never heard of a bypass pump.
Please answer this. Are you able to fill your water tank when the RV is hooked up to city water?

 

[gwinger]

Never heard of a bypass pump.
Please answer this. Are you able to fill your water tank when the RV is hooked up to city water?

I think she may have meant 'bypass valve'.
If the unit has a winterizing kit installed, they can try pulling water from a gallon jug.
If that works, there may be a hole in the tank suction line.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Another issue is that when the tanks are made they take hole saws and cut the holes in them, then use a process called spin welding to fuse the fittings to the tank. Many times the workers just leave the "plugs" that are cut with the hole saws to fall into the tank. Depending on tank design, it would be rather easy for a piece of this plastic tank to block the outlet port to the pump.

This would be a last resort to investigate this but it has happened before and can easily cause the problem.

You might remove the pump and install some tubing on the inlet and outlet and power it straight off a battery and let it draw from a bucket of water to see how it pumps. With the pump disconnected and the tank largely drained, filler port open, blow air back thru the pump suction line and see how well it comes out of the filler port.

Charles

 

[Ohiosnowbird]

Never heard of a bypass pump.
Please answer this. Are you able to fill your water tank when the RV is hooked up to city water?

I was referring to #3 in Gary’s reply, I used the wrong terminology. Sorry.