Safely Powering a 1800W Ninja Oven: 15A vs 20A Circuit in Your RV

[SMR]

DW would like a new Ninja oven, we have one now thats rated at 1800 watts and have used it for years without issue. It's the smaller flip up model, not sure if that makes a difference.

The new oven is also rated at 1800 watts, I'm not sure if I can use the existing 15amp recept or I could run a new one to the outside and plug it into the pedestal.
I have read where the 15amp might be OK but really want the correct answer.

I recently read the post about space heaters but not sure if this is the same.
Appreciate any info and education on the subject.

Thanks

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/ninja-foodi-10-in-1-smart-xl-air-fry-oven-countertop-convection-oven-with-dehydrate-reheat-capability-stainless-silver/JXJVXGZJTT/sku/6471386

 

[Utclmjmpr]

I would be happier with a 20 amp power just for safety..>>>Dan

 

[Rene T]

If it needed a 20 amp circuit wouldn’t they put a 20 amp plug on it. Just asking because I don’t know.

 

[OldWEB]

Did you see the review for that model where the fan outlet is out the back and discolored their backsplash? Something to consider.

But on the power issue, 1800W is max an outlet is designed for (15A). Code states 80% for the breaker, wire and outlet when installing them, what you do after is your choice.
If you are able to, I would run a dedicated outlet to the pedestal using 20A rated wire and a "spec grade" receptacle.

 

[Domo]

Power=Voltatge X Current. (W=E-I)

Therefore, Power/Voltage=Current (W/E=I)

1800 Watts/120 Volts = 15 amps.

NEC requires that breakers only be loaded ,for continuous draw, to 80% of their capacity. For a 15 amp breaker that means they should only be presented with a maximum continuous load of 12 amps - therefore any 1800 watt load is WRONG on a 15 amp breaker is wrong.

With a 20 amp breaker, the max continuous load, per NEC guidelines, would be 16 amps. Therefore, OP's present oven AND the new oven require a 20 amp breaker to fall within NEC rules.

Follow @OldWEB - install a proper 20 dedicated breaker. And do not share that breaker with any other device or you will push it over the NEC limit.

 

[bigbAZ]

Power=Voltatge X Current. (W=E-I)

Therefore, Power/Voltage=Current (W/E=I)

1800 Watts/120 Volts = 15 amps.

NEC requires that breakers only be loaded ,for continuous draw, to 80% of their capacity. For a 15 amp breaker that means they should only be presented with a maximum continuous load of 12 amps - therefore any 1800 watt load is WRONG on a 15 amp breaker is wrong.

With a 20 amp breaker, the max continuous load, per NEC guidelines, would be 16 amps. Therefore, OP's present oven AND the new oven require a 20 amp breaker to fall within NEC rules.

Follow @OldWEB - install a proper 20 dedicated breaker. And do not share that breaker with any other device or you will push it over the NEC limit.

While I agree that a 20 amp circuit would be the best option, the info you present is incorrect. Neither the NEC or the manufacturer require it. A cooking appliance is not a continuous load, and a general use receptacle is not dedicated to any particular load.
AS mentioned earlier, if the appliance required a 20 amp circuit it would come fitted with a NEMA 6-20P.

 

[bigbAZ]

I'm not sure if I can use the existing 15amp recept or I could run a new one to the outside and plug it into the pedestal.

Are you sure the circuit is only 15 amps? The kitchen counter circuits should be 20 amps. Or are you using the sitting area outlets? 20 amp circuits are allowed to be connected to 15 amp duplex receptacles and it is not a problem.

 

[John From Detroit]

If it needed a 20 amp circuit wouldn’t they put a 20 amp plug on it. Just asking because I don’t know.

Not necessarly

Though I would put in a 20 amp circuit. Dedicated breaker 12 ga wire bent around screws of a 15/20 outlet... In fact I put in that type of circuit as "Kitchen 2"

 

[Domo]

While I agree that a 20 amp circuit would be the best option, the info you present is incorrect. Neither the NEC or the manufacturer require it. A cooking appliance is not a continuous load, and a general use receptacle is not dedicated to any particular load.
AS mentioned earlier, if the appliance required a 20 amp circuit it would come fitted with a NEMA 6-20P.

I stand corrected, the NEC classifies a continuous load as max. current for more than 3 hours and cooking appliances are excluded.

Devices requiring 20 amp circuits are not required to have a 20 amp NEMA 5-20P unless it is a continuous load.

Yes, many responses do agree that a 20 amp circuit would be a best option.

Thank you for your correcting response, that's the reason this forum continues to have value for everyone.

 

[bigbAZ]

I stand corrected, the NEC classifies a continuous load as max. current for more than 3 hours and cooking appliances are excluded.

Devices requiring 20 amp circuits are not required to have a 20 amp NEMA 5-20P unless it is a continuous load.

Yes, many responses do agree that a 20 amp circuit would be a best option.

Thank you for your correcting response, that's the reason this forum continues to have value for everyone.

Thanks, where did you find the info that the 5-20P is not required? I just assumed it would be a listing requirement for an appliance drawing over 15 amps to ensure it doesn't get plugged into a 15 amp circuit.

 

[SMR]

Are you sure the circuit is only 15 amps? The kitchen counter circuits should be 20 amps. Or are you using the sitting area outlets? 20 amp circuits are allowed to be connected to 15 amp duplex receptacles and it is not a problem.

I confirmed it is a 15 amp breaker.

 

[RayIN]

A 15A dedicated circuit is OK. If that circuit has other receptacles, make sure nothing else is turned on and you'll be fine and so will your RV.
The nameplate on your oven has the exact specs.
DW has a countertop electric oven and it runs fine on the 15A circuit for the kitchen, we just make sure nothing else is running when the oven is in use or the breaker trips.

 

[BillyThib]

DW would like a new Ninja oven, we have one now thats rated at 1800 watts and have used it for years without issue. It's the smaller flip up model, not sure if that makes a difference.

The new oven is also rated at 1800 watts, I'm not sure if I can use the existing 15amp recept or I could run a new one to the outside and plug it into the pedestal.
I have read where the 15amp might be OK but really want the correct answer.

I recently read the post about space heaters but not sure if this is the same.
Appreciate any info and education on the subject.

Thanks

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/ninja-foodi-10-in-1-smart-xl-air-fry-oven-countertop-convection-oven-with-dehydrate-reheat-capability-stainless-silver/JXJVXGZJTT/sku/6471386

20-amp circuit a must, code requires a circuit be configured to operate at no more than 80% capacity.

 

[bigbAZ]

20-amp circuit a must, code requires a circuit be configured to operate at no more than 80% capacity.

This is incorrect information and has already been discussed in the thread, nowhere in the code does it say that except for continuous loads and permanently connected electric space heating and a cooking appliance is neither of those.

 

[Seilerbird]

As a retired electrician I get a perverse pleasure reading all the false information in a thread like this. Especially the idea of wrapping a 12 gauge wire around a screw on an outlet. That is almost impossible to tighten correctly since you must hold the outlet in one hand and tighten it with the other hand. It is really difficult to get the proper tension on the screw without running the screwdriver into your hand. Very dangerous.

 

[OldWEB]

As a retired electrician I get a perverse pleasure reading all the false information in a thread like this. Especially the idea of wrapping a 12 gauge wire around a screw on an outlet. That is almost impossible to tighten correctly since you must hold the outlet in one hand and tighten it with the other hand. It is really difficult to get the proper tension on the screw without running the screwdriver into your hand. Very dangerous.

What is perverse is you saying this is all false and then go on with how you were unable to install 20A circuits with weak hands. Why leave us hanging with all this "false information"?
Not many more in-lbs are needed from #14 to #12 wire.
I wore leather gloves too.

 

[Wasillaguy]

Never been a licensed electrician, but I've been around the block a couple times. Electrical code is similar to speed limits and dietary guidelines- there's what is right, and what is wrong, and then there's the law.

 

[John From Detroit]

Especially the idea of wrapping a 12 gauge wire around a screw on an outlet. That is almost impossible to tighten correctly since you must hold the outlet in one hand and tighten it with the other hand. It is really difficult to get the proper tension on the screw without running the screwdriver into your hand.

Done it many times. I do tend to overtighten. You must use the proper screwdriver is all.

 

[bigbAZ]

Always best on bigger solid wire to re-check torque after twisting and orienting the device into place. Just pull it out slightly and re-torque before screwing into box.

 

[Edd505]

Like Rene T said wouldn't the manufacture put a different plug on it if they didn't want it plugged into a standard 120V outlet? Plus in today's world they would have been sued eons ago.