Samsung RF18 or Haier HRQ16N3BGS?

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oediehl

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Joined
Jul 3, 2017
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The Samsung R18 is a nicer fridge, but a snugger fit. Our Norcold fridge is in a slide, so we only have ~25" of depth. That would mean the doors would extend beyond the cabinetry, but only 3" or so, and so it should not be a functional or serious aesthetic issue. There is also a Haier HRQ16N3BGS, which is slightly smaller cu ft because it's a bit less deep. It's not as nice as the Samsung (but a couple hundred $$ cheaper) but still bigger/nicer than the outgoing Norcold 1200, and it would be an easier fit, with less door protrusion into the living space.

I know the RF18 Samsung has gotten a lot of good reviews on the forum; not so sure about the Haier. I think I've read that unlike the Samsung, the Haier needs a pure, not MSW, sine wave inverter?

Another issue is; how to fasten it down? The Haier looks like it has brackets that I could hopefully modify to fasten down to the floor beneath, but the Samsung looks trickier. It has 4 rollers (not so good in a moving RV), and screw-type leveling feet that extend forward beyond the body of the fridge, so that they are actually under the doors. That's a problem for me, since the doors will be out beyond the slide, and I can obviously not fix them to the floor there without binding the slide in place. I suppose that when I cut out the cabinet drawer beneath the Norcold, to provide the extra needed vertical space, and when I build the new platform for the new fridge I could extend it out sufficiently to support the forward leveling feet of the Norcold.

Still not entirely sure how to fabricate or modify brackets to fasten either fridge down, though. Especially with the Samsung with rollers. Any suggestions?
 
I recently replaced my Norcold 1210 with a Frigidare 18 cu ft that was on sale at Lowe's for a great price, ($499).  It came with a free ice maker,

I bought two so I could have a spare and keep the second one in the garage for overflow shopping.

I also got a 10% Veterans discount.

The new residential unit fits into the existing space horizontally with 1 inch insulation board on each side.  I had to cut about 3 inches out of the area above the unit to get it to fit.

I am mostly posting this to tell you how I secured it to prevent movement.  I put long self tapping screws thru the metal base plate into the wood base from the back of the refer by working thru the outside cover panel. 

The refer was already a snug fit because of the insulation boards at the side.

I was able to reroute the romex lead to the refer outlet and tap into the junction box that goes to the microwave.
This put me on the circuit that is powered by the invertor if turned on or invertor auto transfer or the shore power/generator if available.
 
Here is a follow up post.

I went out into the garage and took some pictures.

The first one shows how much room is inside the rear opening to the refer from the removable coach panel.
edit:  Somehow it is now the last picture.

The second picture shows one of the self tapping screws with washers placed thru the metal floor into the wood platform base.

The third picture shows the installed refridgerator.

The forth picture is of some childproof latches that they have at Lowe's to keep it closed going down the road.
I am also one of the lucky ones that once had a gallon of milk spill going down the road.  Clean up was a chore and it took awhile to get rid of the smell later.

The fifth picture is of the trim I used to finish the edges.

The sixth is the inside label with the model number if anyone wants it.

The last picture is of the insulated foam panel with silver backing.  It might have been 1 1/4 inch.
 

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Samsung is the only fridge maker I know of that is willing to state that an MSW inverter is OK. That statement applied to the predecessor of the RF18 and I'm not sure they would make it again if the inquiry was repeated.  I know they RV shop owner who got the original approval and he recently confirmed that he has NOT asked Samsung about the RF18, even though he has installed more than 30 of them in RVs to date.

I'm aware of one owner of a high end coach (an American Heritage) who has a big Haier and is quite happy with it. Not sure what model Haier, though.

I installed a GE 14.6 cu ft top freezer, standard depth model in a situation similar to yours. I placed 1/8" thick, 2" wide, aluminum angle brackets at the bottom to provide a slight extension for the front legs to rest on. Worked like a charm! I also fashioned retainer brackets for the top and bottom so the fridge couldn't slide or vibrate out of the cabinet. They were made from more aluminum angle stock. Each situation and fridge model requires a little bit different technique, but it's not rocket science.

One precaution: watch out for the drawer extension space on bottom freezer models.  Sometimes that requirement is greater than the door swing space, e.g. on french door models, and the drawer hits a cabinet opposite the fridge. I know of a couple people who overlooked that!  Another Ooops! is a fridge door that can't open a full 90 degrees, preventing the produce basket on the door-hinge side from being pulled out.
 
One thing I would recommend is to try find a fridge with the condenser on the backside. This will allow you to really insulate and seal the top, sides and bottom with fiberglass insulation to keep out bugs and heat/cold. 
If the condenser is on the bottom, you need to keep the front of the fridge open so the heat can come out. Also you would need to seal the outside access door/doors to keep out the bugs and the heat/cold air. Just a thought. The one I put is a 11 cu/ft Kenmore purchased from Sears. There are others out there exactly the same except a different name. Sears was the cheapest at the time.
 
I've attached photos of the bracket & retainers I made. First is the bottom foot bracket, with retainer bolted to it to prevent slippage. Second is the top retainer (I used 2), which is two angle "L" pieces pop-riveted together to make an offset.
 

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Just bought a Samsung RF18; should get it in a week. I'll report back
 

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