Seriously considering RV living full time to save money

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I know people who have lived in campers year round in New England but I would not want to. Like others have said you would have to find one that is designed to use during freezing temps which will bring the price up and cut in on your savings. Seeing how you can work remotely and if you really want to do this I would say find an RV park in the southern part of the country and put it there. Like OG73 said something that sleeps 4 still does not have a lot of living space so cabin fever could set in so a warmer climate making it easier to do outdoor activities. I might even consider half the year in the north and half in the south. I am not sure if moving it to storage while you are gone will be too cost effective either.
 
1. When you talk about water and waste lines, are those lines outside the RV that the RV hooks up to? In another word, no matter how well heated the interior of the RV is, those lines can freeze unless the camping site keeps them heated somehow... As far as water that are inside the RV, isn't it the job of the water heater to keep them warm enough?

2. I'm surprised that new RVs are likely to come with problems. You'd think something new would be less likely to have problems, like a new car vs used car.

3. As far as propene, do they have to refilled manually or do camp sites have propene lines that you can hook up, like gas lines to a house.
#1. The RV's lines terminate at the outer wall. The fresh water inlet line is a hose connection, and you use a garden hose to connect to a hose bib on the RV site. You either bring the hose indoors in freezing weather ir use a heated hose. Also, many parks turen the water supply off during the winter because they have freeze problems too.

The waste outlet will be under the RV at the outer edge and is fully exposed to weather. You provide a large diameter sewer hose to connect to a pipe in the ground, so that sewer hose is subject to freezing as well.

#2. Forget any comparison to a new car. You are buying a house, not a car, and house-buying rules apply. An RV dealer may look like a car dealer, but they are not at all the same, nor are the manufacturers of RVs anything like auto makers.

#3. Trailers have portable (DOT type) propane bottles, typically the same 20 lb size as used with a BBQ grill. Generally you take them somewhere to be refilled, though some RV parks sell propane refill onsite. You may be able to arrange to have a large 100-300 lb) propane tank installed at the site and a service to come and refill it as needed.
 
I'm not as negative on your idea as the others, but everything they cited is a fact. Living in an RV is not at all equivalent to living in even a crappy apartment. People do it year around, even in cold climates, but it is nowhere near as comfortable and it takes more personal effort, e.g. dumping waste tanks, getting propane, etc.
 
Mrs. Fan and I live full time in NE Wyoming in a TT. It's doable. The issue I hear with your plan is that you won't be there to maintain it. I have found that I have to adjust things - heat, electric, water, hose, etc. - to keep going. If you are going to park it and have it waiting there for you, go to a warmer region, or store it indoors somewhere.

I'm pretty convinced that you would save money to rent a room or studio and have it sitting there for you when you return. Most room mates would love a largely absent room mate anyway. Imagine if you had weather or such that cut your heat or electric, and cans or refrigerator fouled up? You would return to rotten food. No so if you had a room mate living there.

My thoughts.
 
#1. The RV's lines terminate at the outer wall. The fresh water inlet line is a hose connection, and you use a garden hose to connect to a hose bib on the RV site. You either bring the hose indoors in freezing weather ir use a heated hose. Also, many parks turen the water supply off during the winter because they have freeze problems too.

The waste outlet will be under the RV at the outer edge and is fully exposed to weather. You provide a large diameter sewer hose to connect to a pipe in the ground, so that sewer hose is subject to freezing as well.

#2. Forget any comparison to a new car. You are buying a house, not a car, and house-buying rules apply. An RV dealer may look like a car dealer, but they are not at all the same, nor are the manufacturers of RVs anything like auto makers.

#3. Trailers have portable (DOT type) propane bottles, typically the same 20 lb size as used with a BBQ grill. Generally you take them somewhere to be refilled, though some RV parks sell propane refill onsite. You may be able to arrange to have a large 100-300 lb) propane tank installed at the site and a service to come and refill it as needed.
We have propane delivered. Our sewer connection is under our coach, and it is skirted. Most have that. Often the water inlet is the same. In NE Wyoming.
 
I hear some people say RV living cannot save money, but my math tells me it is, perhaps it's due to my unique situation. But I still want to hear you guy's thought and make sure I'm considering everything.
After reading the responses, do you still plan to live in a small, cheap travel trailer?
 
If you absolutely had to do it I suppose you could find a way to do it. But it wouldn't be a fun life. If you can afford better, why not do better? Isn't that part of the reason we work?
 
Hello engineheat!

First off.... WELCOME to the forums! You are about to step into another zone of existence (when and if) you decide to purchase any type of RV. There really is no comparison living an an RV and living in a stick n brick dwelling. It is a nomadic life, even if you are parked stationary. But it is a great life and it does take time to learn and adjust to this lifestyle. This is why I always advise someone who wants to jump into full timing, especially having no prior experience with an RV, to purchase their RV at least a year before deciding to make the full timing move. Over the course of that year, take as many week-end and short week or two week trips as possible. Each outing is a new learning experience that will prepare you for full timing. That's MY strongest advise if you want to make this jump.

Second, all of the comments given above are solid and sound. These are all things you need to learn and become comfortable with, and figure out. The RV learning curve is a very, very hard process. You are already experiencing some of its harsh realities and no doubt already experiencing some strong disappointments based on the comments above. AND YOU KNOW??? That is OK. But once you hook into what these folks are saying, you'll begin to understand and clarity will come. My only advise is, don't jump in cold turkey. The RV waters are really really hot. And it takes time to adjust to the temperature.

Next! Enough of that! Hang in there. You are doing the absolute CORRECT thing... You are asking questions and attempting to figure things out before plunging in. That's good .... real good! And do not quit asking questions. You might not like the answers you get, but you are asking these questions and folks with real world experience are responding. No one is attempting to set you up for failure here. Everyone want you to be successful! But you do need to fully understand what you are up against. So, don't get discouraged if you get an answer that troubles you. Actually, run with it and figure out if this is something you can, or cannot, live with. We want you to succeed! Really!

Now, about a couple of your comments:

Full timing in Indiana will be a challenge, but it can be done. I'm from Indiana. I live North and East of Indianapolis, in the country outside of Anderson. So, what I'll share are from a local home-grown fellow Hoosier.

Propane: The best 2 sources for propane fill up are Tractor Supply Company and the closest RV dealership where ever you live. There are other places, several Co-ops and even places like Ace Hardware sell propane. One thing you DO NOT want to do us use those gas station exchange places, where you swap out your empty tank for a full one. Those tanks are never completely full and you are loosing money. You ONLY do this when you really need to swap an old tank for a newer one. Then you are way, way more money ahead instead of buying a new tank yourself.

I do most of my RV dealings with Modern Trailer in Anderson, Indiana. Currently their propane prices are: Twenty pound tank is $21.13 and a 30 pound tank is $31.70. They fill up by the tank size, one price, regardless if the tank is empty or almost, already completely full.

Tractor Supply (TSC) in Anderson is currently $3.99 a gallon.

An empty 20 pound propane tank contains 4.7 gallons of propane. That equals to $18.75 for a full tank.

A 30 pound propane tank contains approximately 7.1 gallons of liquid propane, which can vary depending on the pressure that is enforced on the propane. At TSC that equals to $28.33.

So, I usually get my fill up at TSC.

How long does that last in winter? Not long if you are heating your camper. Put it this way ... when the outside temperature is 15 degrees, I burn through a 30 pound tank in 36 hours in my 41 foot fifth wheel.

In a smaller trailer, a 20 pound tank will probably last as long. When temps get to zero, you can expect to burn through a tank in 24 hours our less. That is why supplementing with electric heat is so vital. However, if the camper furnace is not running, the floor of the camper will get extremely cold and pipes and drains will freeze too. That is why it is so important if you camp in cold weather, the underbelly of the camper MUST be kept warm. That's where the pipes run and that's where the heat ducts run.

Now another comment. Your choice of campground?

If you don't mind revealing? What campground are you planning on using. Every campground, every state park in Indiana that I know of shuts the water off from November 1 through March 31. Several of the state parks now have a single spigot in the campground they leave turned on all year round as the state parks are finding out folks really do camp in the winter! So, several of the state parks are installing freeze plug type spigots. But, usually only 1 for the entire park is left running for those months.

Lake Haven campground and Indy Lakes (South and West of Indianapolis) are the only two campgrounds I know of that keep the water on all year round. There might be others. So, I'm curious where you are thinking of going to.

OK, I've rambled enough.

Keep us posted on your progress! Enjoy! The planning is all part of the adventure. The "journey" is just as important as the "destination" when it comes to EVERYTHING RV related. Enjoy the journey! The "destination" will come!
 
A comment was made about the quality of RV builds and you responded again comparing to the auto industry.

Here is another "myth" that is quickly blow all to thunder the moment you drive off the lot with your new RV! They are NOT automobiles, and they do not even remotely compare to the quality of ANY automobile on the road!

Your RV WILL have issues, problems, warranty problems, things do break, fall apart, wear out, and age with weather and the elements, regardless if you actually travel or sit stationary.

This is probably the absolute harshest reality for a first time RV buyer. They are NOT automobiles. They cannot be compared to automobiles. Everything about them is a different animal.

A zebra and an alligator's may be at the same zoo, but they are different animals completely. An automobile and a travel trailer may both travel on the road, both require insurance, and both require registration and tags, but that is where the similarities end.

Your camper is a house on wheels. It's flimsy, thin, poorly insulated, held together with bits of aluminum, wood, plastic, rubber, a mess of wire all tangled every direction, and the cheapest plumbing possible. Everything in your camper is held together with staples. If there are screws, they almost always screw into nothing. Your tires will also be the cheapest thing on the market and will probably not hold up. If you are sitting stationary, you can expect them to dry-rot quickly. (like within a couple years if they do not move and are exposed to the sun.)

Just be prepared. There is nothing cheap or easy with maintenance or repairs on an RV. You must learn to fix things yourself and you can absolutely expect to have to take your camper back to the dealership for some kind of service and repair, sometime ... in it's first year. None are fail proof.... none.

Now another comment. You say you are planning on hiring someone to move the camper, or rent a tow vehicle. This is NOT a good decision. You should always be able to hitch and go at will. Anything can happen in a moment's notice that will require you to vacate the campground. If you cannot do this yourself... well .... face it ... you are screwed! You are asking for some self-sufficiency and independence when you purchase an RV. You need to be able to move it yourself too. Do not depend on others. Procuring an RV transport is not as easy as you anticipate. And you cannot depend or anticipate a fellow camper to help. Not ever one out there is friendly and willing to lend a hand, even for pay. Especially if you need to transport the camper. But then again, there are some pretty magnificent folks out there too. But you just never know. Folks who are living in their RV's in a stationary situation usually have their own lives going on, same as the neighbor next door in your apartment. You cannot not depend on someone else here. You really, really need your own vehicle to transport the camper. If you hire someone to transport a greater distance (say from Indiana to Louisiana), you are going to pay a fortune!

Maybe??? Last???
RVing is NOT cheap. Like every good laid plan, it looks good on paper, the harsh reality is far different. Just be prepared!

For those of us who have been RVing, part time, week-end warriors, full times, the cost in immaterial. For us, it's not the cost. We all know we have invested into a loosing value hobby and way of life. But we don't mind that because the benefits of the life-style, the travel and the adventure is ... well.... really ... priceless!
 
Hello engineheat!

First off.... WELCOME to the forums! You are about to step into another zone of existence (when and if) you decide to purchase any type of RV. There really is no comparison living an an RV and living in a stick n brick dwelling. It is a nomadic life, even if you are parked stationary. But it is a great life and it does take time to learn and adjust to this lifestyle. This is why I always advise someone who wants to jump into full timing, especially having no prior experience with an RV, to purchase their RV at least a year before deciding to make the full timing move. Over the course of that year, take as many week-end and short week or two week trips as possible. Each outing is a new learning experience that will prepare you for full timing. That's MY strongest advise if you want to make this jump.

Second, all of the comments given above are solid and sound. These are all things you need to learn and become comfortable with, and figure out. The RV learning curve is a very, very hard process. You are already experiencing some of its harsh realities and no doubt already experiencing some strong disappointments based on the comments above. AND YOU KNOW??? That is OK. But once you hook into what these folks are saying, you'll begin to understand and clarity will come. My only advise is, don't jump in cold turkey. The RV waters are really really hot. And it takes time to adjust to the temperature.

Next! Enough of that! Hang in there. You are doing the absolute CORRECT thing... You are asking questions and attempting to figure things out before plunging in. That's good .... real good! And do not quit asking questions. You might not like the answers you get, but you are asking these questions and folks with real world experience are responding. No one is attempting to set you up for failure here. Everyone want you to be successful! But you do need to fully understand what you are up against. So, don't get discouraged if you get an answer that troubles you. Actually, run with it and figure out if this is something you can, or cannot, live with. We want you to succeed! Really!

Now, about a couple of your comments:

Full timing in Indiana will be a challenge, but it can be done. I'm from Indiana. I live North and East of Indianapolis, in the country outside of Anderson. So, what I'll share are from a local home-grown fellow Hoosier.

Propane: The best 2 sources for propane fill up are Tractor Supply Company and the closest RV dealership where ever you live. There are other places, several Co-ops and even places like Ace Hardware sell propane. One thing you DO NOT want to do us use those gas station exchange places, where you swap out your empty tank for a full one. Those tanks are never completely full and you are loosing money. You ONLY do this when you really need to swap an old tank for a newer one. Then you are way, way more money ahead instead of buying a new tank yourself.

I do most of my RV dealings with Modern Trailer in Anderson, Indiana. Currently their propane prices are: Twenty pound tank is $21.13 and a 30 pound tank is $31.70. They fill up by the tank size, one price, regardless if the tank is empty or almost, already completely full.

Tractor Supply (TSC) in Anderson is currently $3.99 a gallon.

An empty 20 pound propane tank contains 4.7 gallons of propane. That equals to $18.75 for a full tank.

A 30 pound propane tank contains approximately 7.1 gallons of liquid propane, which can vary depending on the pressure that is enforced on the propane. At TSC that equals to $28.33.

So, I usually get my fill up at TSC.

How long does that last in winter? Not long if you are heating your camper. Put it this way ... when the outside temperature is 15 degrees, I burn through a 30 pound tank in 36 hours in my 41 foot fifth wheel.

In a smaller trailer, a 20 pound tank will probably last as long. When temps get to zero, you can expect to burn through a tank in 24 hours our less. That is why supplementing with electric heat is so vital. However, if the camper furnace is not running, the floor of the camper will get extremely cold and pipes and drains will freeze too. That is why it is so important if you camp in cold weather, the underbelly of the camper MUST be kept warm. That's where the pipes run and that's where the heat ducts run.

Now another comment. Your choice of campground?

If you don't mind revealing? What campground are you planning on using. Every campground, every state park in Indiana that I know of shuts the water off from November 1 through March 31. Several of the state parks now have a single spigot in the campground they leave turned on all year round as the state parks are finding out folks really do camp in the winter! So, several of the state parks are installing freeze plug type spigots. But, usually only 1 for the entire park is left running for those months.

Lake Haven campground and Indy Lakes (South and West of Indianapolis) are the only two campgrounds I know of that keep the water on all year round. There might be others. So, I'm curious where you are thinking of going to.

OK, I've rambled enough.

Keep us posted on your progress! Enjoy! The planning is all part of the adventure. The "journey" is just as important as the "destination" when it comes to EVERYTHING RV related. Enjoy the journey! The "destination" will come!
I've been very appreciative of the comments so far. I'm old enough to understand that life is not all rainbows and there are challenges to every "plan". I need some time to digest all the comments, but the general gist I get now is that winter is a big issue. I actually live in the tri-state area near the Indiana/Kentucky/Ohio border near Cincinnati, so it's not as cold as say, Chicago or Northwest Indiana. But I am considering perhaps living in Airbnb or Extended Stay during Dec to Feb. That way I'd still be saving a lot for the rest of the year, and don't have to deal with the winter issues. The Extended Stay have a monthly rate that isn't that much higher than my rent anyway. This is one of the attractiveness of RV for me - it's so flexible.

I haven't explored all the RV parks nearby so far. I only called one just to get a "feel" of RV parks offer. They are called Tucker's Landing RV Park & Boat Ramp, near the Ohio river.

I plan to visit the parks in the coming weeks to see things in person, how things work, etc, and perhaps figuring out a way to rent a trailer for a few days so I can experience it. Not sure if there are good sources to rent a RV.
 
So, don't get discouraged if you get an answer that troubles you. Actually, run with it and figure out if this is something you can, or cannot, live with. We want you to succeed! Really!
Good advice- learn before you are committed to it.

Now another comment. You say you are planning on hiring someone to move the camper, or rent a tow vehicle. This is NOT a good decision. You should always be able to hitch and go at will. Anything can happen in a moment's notice that will require you to vacate the campground. If you cannot do this yourself... well .... face it ... you are screwed! You are asking for some self-sufficiency and independence when you purchase an RV. You need to be able to move it yourself too.
I'd agree with this, especially if you're camped near the Ohio -- think flood stage -- someone nearby may need to move their rig at the same time.

I actually live in the tri-state area near the Indiana/Kentucky/Ohio border near Cincinnati, so it's not as cold as say, Chicago or Northwest Indiana.
Nonetheless, it still gets below freezing for more than a couple of hours at a time during the winter, multiple times. I've lived in Evansville and in Cincinnatti and I've seen snow, ice storms, etc., and that inexpensive trailer is so poorly insulated that you won't be comfortable indoors on many occasions, though you can survive. And, when not prepared, freezing the water lines, etc. can get costly, too (remember all the maintenance comments above?).
 
Perhaps you are right. Maybe I overlooked the winter part. Fact is, I've never never stepped into a RV before, and I don't know how the plumbing on it works. Some questions:

1. When you talk about water and waste lines, are those lines outside the RV that the RV hooks up to? In another word, no matter how well heated the interior of the RV is, those lines can freeze unless the camping site keeps them heated somehow... As far as water that are inside the RV, isn't it the job of the water heater to keep them warm enough?

2. I'm surprised that new RVs are likely to come with problems. You'd think something new would be less likely to have problems, like a new car vs used car.

3. As far as propene, do they have to refilled manually or do camp sites have propene lines that you can hook up, like gas lines to a house.
All your connections - sewer, water, electric - are outside the trailer. Water lines with freeze if it gets too cold. The water heater only keeps the water inside of it warm, the lines leading to and from it can also freeze unless they're really well insulated.
All new RV's come with 'some' issues. If you're lucky, they will be few and minor. Laura is correct. The best bet would be to buy a late model used one, about 3 years old. Most of the bugs have already been worked out on someone else's dime.
You will need to refill your propane tanks manually. I have never seen any RV park that has gas lines or pre-positioned tanks at the sites.
 
Hi engineheat and all,

First, I often hear people say there isn't such a thing as four season RV's, Trailers so forth. Yes, there is! My nephew and his family own one made in Oregon. I'm not going to say living in one during the winter time would be great but would be doable. A four season RV would be a substantial amount of money though.

I live in Indiana and know the region. If your down south near Cincinnati, Ohio/Indiana/Kentucky it will be warmer but you will have some super cold days, maybe well below freezing.

Second, Could you stay at an RV campground that has restrooms you could use to take a shower and clean up as well as use the bathroom facilities? Many campgrounds have them. You could then winterize your trailer and just use the campground facilities.

Like Gary B. said, a large LP tank onsite would be ideal so you don't have to worry so much about running LP tanks. I'd consider a 100 gallon tank or larger. You will probably spend a bit more money heating than you think. Best Wishes!
 
I found a RV park nearby that offers monthly rate of $600 including electricity.
It's unusual for a RV park to include electricity in its monthly rates. They almost always include electricity for daily stays, and only a few include it for daily but not for weekly stays, but it's definitey the exception rather than the rule for a monthly rate to include electricity. A monthly rate of $600 including electricity is a really good deal these days and what I would usually associate with a fairly run-down RV park or an RV park in a relatively unpopular place (i.e., not convenient to a big city like Cincinnati).

I haven't explored all the RV parks nearby so far. I only called one just to get a "feel" of RV parks offer. They are called Tucker's Landing RV Park & Boat Ramp, near the Ohio river.
Is this the RV park you mentioned in your original post? I went to Tucker's Landing's website and their daily rate is $68 AND they charge for metered electricity "no matter the length of stay." As I said above, this is unusual. Even aside from whether electricity is included, even if it isn't, I'd be shocked if a park with a daily rate of almost $68 would charge $600 for a month. Usually the monthly charge is the same as about two weeks of daily charges, and it doesn't include electricity even if the daily charge does.

I looked at availability from July 1 - July 31, and then from November 1 - November 30, and there was no mention of a monthly rate. The weekly rate discount got the total down to $1,760 for the month, presumably plus electricity. Also, they turn off the water to individual sites from December 1 - March 30, but they have frost-free spigots scattered around, which could be used to fill your onboard tank (or maybe you could hook up to it--it's not clear).

Anyway, since your main motivator is saving money, you might need to get better information on what the costs actually are likely to be.
 
You will want to verify with your employer that "remote" can also mean residing out of state, if you choose. Many will not let you do that because of employment laws which they are not equipped to handle, like paying employment insurance and/or B&O taxes in another state.

If you haven't lived life on the road, what if you rented something and took it on the road for a few weeks? That way you could immerse yourself waist-deep in the world of RV'ing and only be on the hook for rental costs.
 
That November in Ohio, I went through about 9 gallons of propane every 9-10 days. And the cost can vary from $2.79 to $4.99 per gallon.

It was suggested you get a bigger tank and possibly use skirting around your trailer. Make sure you check with whatever RV park you choose to see what they allow in terms of bigger tanks and skirting.

Also, it is unlikely than rental pickup trucks will have the correct tow equipment on them or that a typical rental company would allow you to tow anything with a rental truck. Make sure you check on this, as well.

Also, I have worked in the automobile industry on a corporate level and have also spent time in a lot of factories. When I went looking for my rig, I checked out the factories of several manufacturers. I can tell you that they are getting slightly better, but they use incredibly cheap materials and assume that the RV they are building only needs to last a few weekends each year. Their quality processes are about where the auto industry was back in the 1970s. Basically, they are built one at a time, not on an assembly line as you might imagine. Often one team builds an entire rig, so there is little standardization amount the resulting products.

Examples of poor quality if the fit and finish of windows and doors--you can feel breezes when it is really cold and windy. Another example is my shower. I found out when I replaced it that the reason my shower handle screws were rusting. Turns out someone must have lost the original screws so replaced the stainless steel screws on the handles with wood screw!! In addition, must RVs are built using components like toilets, refrigerators, and stoves using the same couple of manufacturers. Also, floors and ceilings rot and leak, and it seems there is always something broken that needs to be fixed. (Right now for me, sofa is falling apart and it cannot be easily replaced, two drawer latches are broken, the sewer hose cap needs to be replaced, and I need to replace the in-house water filter. Those are minor, but, yesterday I think the wind broke one of my slide topper latches, but I have not checked on that yet because it is too high to see clearly.)

The point of all our discussion is to make sure you go into this with as much knowledge as possible and not lose a ton of money on this decision. Many of us on this forum are very experienced full-timers and have been on the road for years, so we know very well how things fall apart. Personally, I love this life, but I did not make my decisions with the goal of saving money. In fact, staying in my old condo or renting an apartment somewhere would have been a LOT cheaper!!
 
I think all this advice has been great! I think she has alot to think about. It has only been a day.
 
Also, don't forget to include the cost of internet service, assuming that you are working from home. No matter what a commercial campground tells you about internet being included, you will find that it is very poor and often not usable. (I have been in a few places where it is only available in a community room or laundry room, not at individual sites, no matter what they tell you.) Try holding a business conference in a laundry room--really!!

Your employer may provide you with a laptop, but you will need a couple of mobile hotspots for internet using cell services such as Verizon. I say a couple because in 8 years of teaching online college classes from my motorhome, I found out I needed duplicates in case something broke. My employer also did not want me using public internet because of privacy issues, so I had to have my own password-protected equipment and pay for my own cell lines. Hotspots cost about $200 new, although you can buy used ones at eBay. (If you stay close to your office, you can probably drive in for a replacement laptop if something goes wrong, but most companies will not support you with electronics if you are working away from the office, especially at a distance.) Add at least $60 per month for the two extra cell lines for your mobile hotspots. And don't forget that a lot of providers that provide "unlimited" cell service, will limit your speed after a certain amount of monthly usage.

Just something to think about. I worked online at least 6-8 hours each day, and I made it work, but there were times when I had to drive out during the day to find a better signal so I could participate in a teleconference or Zoom meeting.
 
Thanks engineheat for sharing your approximate location. That sheds a little more light on the subject.

Considering you are in Southern Indiana and you have the ability to work from home, why not search out campgrounds in Kentucky? There are more Kentucky campgrounds that DO leave the water turned on all year round. It it isn't until you are South of Elizabethtown, Kentucky (think an East - West line through that town), that you begin to get out of the deep freeze zone.

Still, we have been to some Kentucky campgrounds, Specifically KOA's, that leave the water on. Folks who were parked there long term still did some pretty creative steps to winter guard their campers.

(Also, the KOA in Jeffersonville, Indiana leaves their water on and they have long term seasonal sites. When we stayed there, about 95% of the campground was filled with construction workers working on a building project and a bridge project. We stayed there for a Barry Manilow concert for about 3 nights a few years ago. Folks there had 100 pound propane tanks delivered for their winter usage. Some even had double tanks. It was an interesting arrangement and we were just fortunate to be able to squeeze in at that time.

And one other option you might consider are actual mobile home parks. Now granted, you may get rejected immediately when you don't have an actual mobile home, but some mobile home parks do accommodate campers, fifth wheels, camping trailers, and motor homes. You just have to reach out and ask. The worst you'll get is a "No, you can't do that here." answer.
 
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