Servel Fridge problem

[Markrv2]

I have a very old Servel fridge that has performed well for me for over two decades.
I sought help around 15 years ago online when it stopped and I was guided on how to fix it.

Then a couple of years ago the gas started to leak from the fridge and so I got it repaired with
a five year warranty.

When I started her up after the repair I couldn't get the control rods lined up properly so I left them as they were.
They were set for a very cold temp in the fridge and freezer.

Fast forward to yesterday when I noticed the fridge was not very cold at all.
The freezer was colder (fortunately) but not nearly as cold as it has been for the past couple of years.
It's now barely usable.

I must inform that I use this fridge at home strictly in electric mode. It is not hooked up to any propane gas.

Any suggestions on what I should do to troubleshoot the problem?
The back coils which are normally very hot (as they should be) are now cool mid fridge and bottom, and just barely
warm at the top.
The only other sign of life is the gurgle sound (which is normal).

 

[Martian]

Throw a retirement party for it and hire a replacement.

 

[Rene T]

Welcome to the forum. It’s good to have a little humor once in a while.

 

[Markrv2]

Throw a retirement party for it and hire a replacement.

Oh I would in a heart beat!
The problem is that I can't get a replacement that is the same as what I have.

I looked into it a couple of years ago when I had the leak problem.
Servel is out of the question as most here would know.

Dometic and the rest don't make a machine that has a handle the same as mine.
No latch with clicking to lock the door in place when closing.
Just rubber seal based on suction.

A few other differences too.

 

[Kirk]

No latch with clicking to lock the door in place when closing.
Just rubber seal based on suction.

Is that a major problem? We just used expansion rods to keep everything on the shelves and the door never had any problems with the door opening when traveling.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Oh I would in a heart beat!
The problem is that I can't get a replacement that is the same as what I have.

I looked into it a couple of years ago when I had the leak problem.
Servel is out of the question as most here would know.

Dometic and the rest don't make a machine that has a handle the same as mine.
No latch with clicking to lock the door in place when closing.
Just rubber seal based on suction.

A few other differences too.

Do you mean the magnetic seal around the door?

 

[Markrv2]

Is that a major problem? We just used expansion rods to keep everything on the shelves and the door never had any problems with the door opening when traveling.

Well in my case it would be a big problem for me.
Could you please describe in more detail how you open and close your fridge door?
It is not using a latching mechanism?
What model do you have?

 

[Markrv2]

Do you mean the magnetic seal around the door?

I don't know exactly what the rubber is comprised of on my fridge.
It could have some metal in it, but I suspect it is just a suction seal.
There is no latch mechanism at all.
Having said that, before this latest problem started,
one of my main concerns was the rather loose seal I was now getting
when I closed the door. Looser on the fridge but also on the freezer.

 

[Matt_C]

When we had to remove the OE reefer, we took measurements and went shopping for "Dorm" units. Then, because I needed it to run without gas (being a residential unit), I bought a 750/1500 Chinese inverter. It has been that way for 12 years now.
Matt_C

 

[Markrv2]

When we had to remove the OE reefer, we took measurements and went shopping for "Dorm" units. Then, because I needed it to run without gas (being a residential unit), I bought a 750/1500 Chinese inverter. It has been that way for 12 years now.
Matt_C

So you are running a gas unit using an inverter?
It wasn't designed to be run on 120V?
I haven't heard of that one before.

I just priced some new Dometics and Norcolds.
The prices have gone through the roof in the past couple of years!
We're talking $5,000 US and higher.

 

[Rene T]

So you are running a gas unit using an inverter?
It wasn't designed to be run on 120V?
I haven't heard of that one before.

I just priced some new Dometics and Norcolds.
The prices have gone through the roof in the past couple of years!
We're talking $5,000 US and higher.

What Matt is saying that the replacement fridge was strictly run off 120 volt AC. That is a residential fridge. No propane at all. He purchased the inverter so it would run off his rv battery if he is boon docking or it could maybe run while on the road.

 

[Markrv2]

Well it is my hope/belief that if I received the same type of technical help I received around 15 years ago I could repair my fridge once again.
I received guidance on where to look and what to test exactly.
If I recall the thermostat just needed to be replaced and she was good to go after that.

 

[Matt_C]

If you are willing to come south to the Amish areas of Ohio, there are several shops there that repair absorption reefers. They even build all new cooling units for some and maybe they have one for your unit.
Matt_C

 

[Markrv2]

If you are willing to come south to the Amish areas of Ohio, there are several shops there that repair absorption reefers. They even build all new cooling units for some and maybe they have one for your unit.
Matt_C

That would be quite the trek to get my unit repaired!
I guess there aren't any tech savvy members here? On the other RV forum
(which seems to have disappeared) members there told me to get out my
multimeter and guided me in testing various parts until we found the defective part.

 

[Rene T]

members there told me to get out my
multimeter and guided me in testing various parts until we found the defective part.

Well why can’t you do that again if you did it once before

 

[Markrv2]

Well why can’t you do that again if you did it once before

I didn't take notes when I did it around 15 years ago so I don't remember what I tested.

 

[Kirk]

You have given us very little information to be able to tell you how to fix the problem. Based on what little you have told us, it sounds like you probably need to replace the cooling unit, but we can only guess, since you have not told us the exact make & model of refrigerator. If we knew that we could then look for a service manual, and most of them are available online. If your refrigerator is only 20 years old, then it will have a thermistor to control the internal temperature, and rather than a thermostat. All RV refrigerators that I have seen in the past 30+ years have use thermistors. They are not difficult to check with an ohm meter and are fairly easy to replace but you would need the proper one. I highly doubt that your problem is just a bad door latch.

 

[Markrv2]

You have given us very little information to be able to tell you how to fix the problem. Based on what little you have told us, it sounds like you probably need to replace the cooling unit, but we can only guess, since you have not told us the exact make & model of refrigerator. If we knew that we could then look for a service manual, and most of them are available online. If your refrigerator is only 20 years old, then it will have a thermistor to control the internal temperature, and rather than a thermostat. All RV refrigerators that I have seen in the past 30+ years have use thermistors. They are not difficult to check with an ohm meter and are fairly easy to replace but you would need the proper one. I highly doubt that your problem is just a bad door latch.

Thanks Kirk for your reply I appreciate it.
My model is the Servel RGE400 (by Dometic).
Prod. Num. 921-17-20-08.

If it is the cooling unit, it's supposed to have a 5-year warranty.
Just bought it 2 years ago.

It could have been a 'thermistor' that I replaced and just got the terminology wrong. I remember buying the new part. It wasn't light.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Lot's of tech savvy here, but there isn't a lot of info to work with. Basically it's not cooling and the cooling unit isn't working normally. Since it is cooling a little, the heat source (electric) is OK, so there isn't much other electrical to test. Still make the control board is trying to cool, i.e. applying 120v to the heater rod that is in a sleeve along side of the boiler. If the heater is on, then the problem is almost surely some blockage in the cooling unit and that is not repairable. Your trusty multimeter can verify if the heater is powered or not. If not, start back-tracking to find out why.

Here's a Servel service manual that might cover your fridge: https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/servel.pdf

 

[Markrv2]

Lot's of tech savvy here, but there isn't a lot of info to work with. Basically it's not cooling and the cooling unit isn't working normally. Since it is cooling a little, the heat source (electric) is OK, so there isn't much other electrical to test. Still make the control board is trying to cool, i.e. applying 120v to the heater rod that is in a sleeve along side of the boiler. If the heater is on, then the problem is almost surely some blockage in the cooling unit and that is not repairable. Your trusty multimeter can verify if the heater is powered or not. If not, start back-tracking to find out why.

Here's a Servel service manual that might cover your fridge: https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/servel.pdf

Thanks Gary. I don't know if my model is the 'Silhouette'.
Here is a link to my exact model.
The multimeter tests in the link you gave might work, if it's my model or they are similar.