set up at the park checklist
- Thread starter twosocks
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Houston Remodeler
Well-known member
Bill,
What kind of RV do you have ?
What kind of RV do you have ?
J
jdq1986
Guest
The first thing I always do is unplug the trailer lights. Can be bad if you hook up to shore power still connected. Depending on how long we're staying I may not unhook the truck at all so I make sure to unplug the lights. Then I put down the front and rear stabilizing jacks, and if I am unhooking the truck I do so and pull away from the trailer at that time. Then I level the trailer to my liking, and install the wheel chocks. At this time I let DW know it's ok to put out the slides. Then I test the power source, turn off the breaker, plug in, and turn the breaker back on. Then I attach my sewer hose and set up the hose ramp. I attach the city water connection if we're staying long enough to need it, usually I do. Lastly, I open the gray tanks, and turn on the hot water heater, and adjust the AC or furnace.
Most important step, sometime very soon after all of that I find a beer and a place to put my chair.
Most important step, sometime very soon after all of that I find a beer and a place to put my chair.
J
jdq1986
Guest
twosocks said:
The first part of leveling is trying to pick a good spot to park in that will require minimal effort. I start by just putting firm pressure on the rear jacks, and the extending the front jacks until it looks eyeball level. Then step back and walk around the trailer 360? and adjust accordingly as needed.
HappyWanderer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2014
- Posts
- 2,967
twosocks said:
How do you level before you unhook? I'm guessing you mean side to side and not front to back.
Houston Remodeler
Well-known member
Since you haul a TT, the side to side leveling is performed while the TT is still attached to the truck in case you have to drive up on some blocks to lift one side.
Then the hitch is disconnected, before the trailer is leveled front to back.
Then the hitch is disconnected, before the trailer is leveled front to back.
J
jdq1986
Guest
HappyWanderer said:
I had the same thought at first Wanderer but I don't think the OP was questioning why you'd unhook first, just wanted to know the process itself and used the unhooking as a reference point in my list of events.
HappyWanderer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2014
- Posts
- 2,967
There's a pretty good article in the library:
http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=64:arrival-a-departure-with-a-travel-trailer&catid=15&Itemid=132
http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=64:arrival-a-departure-with-a-travel-trailer&catid=15&Itemid=132
robertusa123
Well-known member
First thing I do with my TT. Is place the wheel chucks. I few years again I unlooked hitch to have the trailer roll down hill 10 ft into a tree. Luckily me, no damage
J
jdq1986
Guest
robertusa123 said:
I think this boils down to spot selection. I would not ever consider parking on a hill even with wheel chocks. Also, some wheel chocks can severely damage your tires if you install them before leveling, due to the small movements the wheels will make while the trailer is being leveled. Especially the expanding type chocks that go between the wheels, like the X-Chock. I don't think the plastic wedge type chocks would hurt the tires, but they also offer only minimal slip protection.
Mopar1973Man
Well-known member
Typically...
Level left to right.
Chock the wheels.
Unhitch.
Level from front to rear.
Set my stabilizer jacks.
Kick the slide out.
Plug in power, water and sewer if available.
Go inside.
Turn on water heater (AC or Propane), fridge (AC or Propane)...
Enjoy.
This hold true for RV park or boondocking. The difference is the hookup. Now boondocking I flip on the inverter, place the solar panels outside. Then run the fridge on propane.
Level left to right.
Chock the wheels.
Unhitch.
Level from front to rear.
Set my stabilizer jacks.
Kick the slide out.
Plug in power, water and sewer if available.
Go inside.
Turn on water heater (AC or Propane), fridge (AC or Propane)...
Enjoy.
This hold true for RV park or boondocking. The difference is the hookup. Now boondocking I flip on the inverter, place the solar panels outside. Then run the fridge on propane.
Houston Remodeler
Well-known member
Don't forget the water pump
J
jdq1986
Guest
What do you need the water pump for if you have city water?
Houston Remodeler
Well-known member
You don't, but if your boondocking you do
martin2340
Well-known member
I agree with Mopar Man on all. Do not use stabilizer jacks until last, after unhooking and leveling front to back. I found out the hard way on my first trip out and had to replace my rear stabilizer after setting them and raising the TT to clear the hitch ball and heard a loud crunch I never want to hear again.
You live and you learn
You live and you learn
martin2340
Well-known member
JDQ mentioned to open the gray tanks upon arrival this is something I never do and I have read many times not to do it. Keep the Gray tanks closed as you do the black tank and until 3/4 full that way after you empty your black tank you can then empty your gray tank flushing any remaining remnants from your sewer hoses.
CLiNTon
Well-known member
My mental parking routine setup & to-do lists;
0. Checking the site prior to parking; Look at the site for overall level and space and imagine rig in place. Check for nails and crap you don't want your tires sitting on.
Also check water spigots, sewer drain, and power box. I've been to places were the sewer backed up and spilled out from another space and there is now way
you can check it before parking and setup. I've also run into issues with power where the park maintenance had to come check on and fix issues.
A simple tool that identifies ground faults is helpful. (I've got a small surge protector and voltage mon. that I keep perm. on the 30 amp cord)
1. Getting the rig parked the way I want it means that I could care less if it is not perfectly straight, and 99% of the time it doesn't have to be.
This time around I'm tilted at about a 20-30 degree angle to the pad because the park drive is small and vehicle hook up later to get out will present
some "tight" issues. You should be fitted so that all your hookups can reach. Duplication of some equipment, (water hoses) may be needed. I've got a 20 foot one
and a 6 foot one. I'm using the 6 foot one now. I've never had an issue with my sewer hose as it can stretch to about 15-18 feet.
One should also consider the slide-out space needed, mine is about 3 1/2-4 feet.
A quick side/side level check prior to unhooking truck, just to be sure that there is nothing grotesquely out of level on that specific side/side angle.
I think that after two years I've only once had to level by placing something under tires of one side.
2. Unhook truck & leveling the rig; I use the frame of the TT just behind the propane for front/rear leveling and various locations inside the TT for side/side leveling.
Optimally side/side leveling should be done in fridge/freezer, but mine is all plastic materials. You don't need to be perfectly level, get a leveler that
measures in degrees. You may safely be out by a few of those degrees no matter what anyone tells you to the contrary. I have yet to encounter a refrigeration problem,
nor will you notice a perceptual difference. I also inspect the propane tanks and battery secure belts while leveling, and make sure the towing stuff is off
the ground and sway bars go into storage. Retract stabilizers and recheck leveling. Place tire chocks to door side.
*Lately I've been thinking about getting tire covers.
3. Hook ups; Normally I hook the water up first, run the hot water to fill heater tank, and then turn the hot water tank's propane on, because I'll want to shower & relax later.
Then I'll hook up the electric, making sure the pedestal's power is off first, after flipping breaker, I'll then run inside to check my voltage tool that I keep
permanently in a convenient 120v outlet.
After that I might put the slide out if it doesn't get in my way of doing whatever else that needs to get done. The last thing for me is getting the sewer
hose out and setting up the Flush King. I'll then spend about 30 to 40 minutes flushing out the gray and black water tanks.
I always keep a few gallons of water with softener and laundry detergent in these tanks while on the road, I find it's one of the best ways to clean these tanks.
When it comes time to leave the park, I'll spend about an hour on them flushing and cleaning the tanks, and the black water tanks water upon arrival
usually always comes back with stuffs that were missed. I'm anal about keeping the tanks clean as opposed to being anal about keeping the trailer straight in the lot.
You can come up with your own priorities.
4. Clean anything that needs cleaning and then setup stuff that was previously secured for road travel.
After that I'll make sure the computer is in good working order, and then relax and take a shower.
Other misc checks:
Check and exercise generator, mine is on a custom made bar to the rear of the trailer.
Cover battery packs for long stays in summer: I stayed in the high desert in the summer heat and the sun completely destroyed the nylon battery belts.
LEAVING
0. Day before: inspect tires and check that lugs are tight. Secure gen cover, check bungee cords.
1. Clean and prep tanks as above. Pay any needed park bills and check mail.
2. Secure all inside stuff, close slide, prepare clothes near BR.
3. Retract 2 front and rear stabilizers, hook up truck, and remove 20 amp power cord if used. Retract awning if used.
4. Take shower.
5. While making coffee for road, turn heater tank propane off, remove water hose and secure, remove and secure sewer drain tube.
6. Turn park ped breaker off, remove and secure 30 amp power cord.
7. Pack stuff into truck that's needed for road travel: coffee, snacks, phone etc.
8. Final walk around inspection; inspect hitch setup, make sure interior vents are closed, check break and signal lights.
Double check that hot water tank's propane is off. I run with the fridge on propane when traveling.
9. Pull out gently and carefully.
I've only been full timing for two years, but the dozen or so times I've settled in to various places, ...the above has been my routine.
For work, my minimal stay time is 3 months, but no longer than a year (tax thing).
I don't go to places where there isn't a full complement of hookups. I'm not into dry camping...even when going on vacation.
0. Checking the site prior to parking; Look at the site for overall level and space and imagine rig in place. Check for nails and crap you don't want your tires sitting on.
Also check water spigots, sewer drain, and power box. I've been to places were the sewer backed up and spilled out from another space and there is now way
you can check it before parking and setup. I've also run into issues with power where the park maintenance had to come check on and fix issues.
A simple tool that identifies ground faults is helpful. (I've got a small surge protector and voltage mon. that I keep perm. on the 30 amp cord)
1. Getting the rig parked the way I want it means that I could care less if it is not perfectly straight, and 99% of the time it doesn't have to be.
This time around I'm tilted at about a 20-30 degree angle to the pad because the park drive is small and vehicle hook up later to get out will present
some "tight" issues. You should be fitted so that all your hookups can reach. Duplication of some equipment, (water hoses) may be needed. I've got a 20 foot one
and a 6 foot one. I'm using the 6 foot one now. I've never had an issue with my sewer hose as it can stretch to about 15-18 feet.
One should also consider the slide-out space needed, mine is about 3 1/2-4 feet.
A quick side/side level check prior to unhooking truck, just to be sure that there is nothing grotesquely out of level on that specific side/side angle.
I think that after two years I've only once had to level by placing something under tires of one side.
2. Unhook truck & leveling the rig; I use the frame of the TT just behind the propane for front/rear leveling and various locations inside the TT for side/side leveling.
Optimally side/side leveling should be done in fridge/freezer, but mine is all plastic materials. You don't need to be perfectly level, get a leveler that
measures in degrees. You may safely be out by a few of those degrees no matter what anyone tells you to the contrary. I have yet to encounter a refrigeration problem,
nor will you notice a perceptual difference. I also inspect the propane tanks and battery secure belts while leveling, and make sure the towing stuff is off
the ground and sway bars go into storage. Retract stabilizers and recheck leveling. Place tire chocks to door side.
*Lately I've been thinking about getting tire covers.
3. Hook ups; Normally I hook the water up first, run the hot water to fill heater tank, and then turn the hot water tank's propane on, because I'll want to shower & relax later.
Then I'll hook up the electric, making sure the pedestal's power is off first, after flipping breaker, I'll then run inside to check my voltage tool that I keep
permanently in a convenient 120v outlet.
After that I might put the slide out if it doesn't get in my way of doing whatever else that needs to get done. The last thing for me is getting the sewer
hose out and setting up the Flush King. I'll then spend about 30 to 40 minutes flushing out the gray and black water tanks.
I always keep a few gallons of water with softener and laundry detergent in these tanks while on the road, I find it's one of the best ways to clean these tanks.
When it comes time to leave the park, I'll spend about an hour on them flushing and cleaning the tanks, and the black water tanks water upon arrival
usually always comes back with stuffs that were missed. I'm anal about keeping the tanks clean as opposed to being anal about keeping the trailer straight in the lot.
You can come up with your own priorities.
4. Clean anything that needs cleaning and then setup stuff that was previously secured for road travel.
After that I'll make sure the computer is in good working order, and then relax and take a shower.
Other misc checks:
Check and exercise generator, mine is on a custom made bar to the rear of the trailer.
Cover battery packs for long stays in summer: I stayed in the high desert in the summer heat and the sun completely destroyed the nylon battery belts.
LEAVING
0. Day before: inspect tires and check that lugs are tight. Secure gen cover, check bungee cords.
1. Clean and prep tanks as above. Pay any needed park bills and check mail.
2. Secure all inside stuff, close slide, prepare clothes near BR.
3. Retract 2 front and rear stabilizers, hook up truck, and remove 20 amp power cord if used. Retract awning if used.
4. Take shower.
5. While making coffee for road, turn heater tank propane off, remove water hose and secure, remove and secure sewer drain tube.
6. Turn park ped breaker off, remove and secure 30 amp power cord.
7. Pack stuff into truck that's needed for road travel: coffee, snacks, phone etc.
8. Final walk around inspection; inspect hitch setup, make sure interior vents are closed, check break and signal lights.
Double check that hot water tank's propane is off. I run with the fridge on propane when traveling.
9. Pull out gently and carefully.
I've only been full timing for two years, but the dozen or so times I've settled in to various places, ...the above has been my routine.
For work, my minimal stay time is 3 months, but no longer than a year (tax thing).
I don't go to places where there isn't a full complement of hookups. I'm not into dry camping...even when going on vacation.
