Shore power cord - amazon has hundreds

Ohiosnowbird

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We have a shore power cord that is arcing and needs to be replaced. It’s the one that came with our Thor - no surprise there. There’s nothing on the cable that identifies it, most likely furion. There are literally hundreds at Amazon. Who or what cable do folks here recommend as a replacement?
 
We have a shore power cord that is arcing and needs to be replaced. It’s the one that came with our Thor - no surprise there. There’s nothing on the cable that identifies it, most likely furion. There are literally hundreds at Amazon. Who or what cable do folks here recommend as a replacement?
Where is the cord arching, if it’s the male end or female end, they sell replacement plugs. Much cheaper.
 
Hubby says he appreciates the replacement advice, he wants a sealed cable. He wants a cable with the ends molded on at the factory to make it as waterproof as possible. We use the cable full time, the RV is always hooked to shore power.
 
Cool. Nothing from me. I don't think I've ever seen a molded cable and certainly not gonna buy one. Unless you are using an extension the cable plug is plugged into a 50 amp receptacle that is in an outdoor enclosure the lid closes to cover the receptacle and plug. Mine stays plugged all the time into an extension cable that lays in my yard.
 
You need to know the cable amperage rating (30A/120v or 50A/240v) and how it connects to the RV. Some RVs use detachable cables and have a female plug on the RV end of the cable. Others are hardwired, i.e. the end of the cable is loose wires that are screwed down tight in a junction box. The hardwired type use standard wiring (either 30A or 50A), but there are different types of plugs in use for the detachable type. If yours is detachable, a photo would be helpful.

I'm not familiar with your coach (Thor Quantum Class C?) and don't want to guess. The brochure says it has a 30A shore cable but there maybe an option for 50A, and it doesn't mention if it is detachable or not.
 
Most cables on Amazon are 6-3/8-1 which is fine. Because of the weight of a 50 amp cable I suggest right angle plug ends (especially if twist lock) to help reduce stress on the connection. I bought a 30' Camco and a 15' Ficstar, both seem to be good quality.
 
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The only thing I will add to this topic, if you are buying a new cord, make sure to get one that has a rubber type outer insulation jacket....SO, SOO, etc. The thermal plastic ones will work also, but they get very stiff and hard to manage in cooler/colder weather and you will then wish you had spent a few bucks more for the rubber coated one.
 
Most cables on Amazon are 6-3/8-1 which is fine. Because of the weight of a 50 amp cable I suggest right angle plug ends (especially if twist lock) to help reduce stress on the connection. I bought a 30' Camco and a 15' Fiscar, both seem to be good quality.
I've replaced various cord ends over the years but never though about doing this. I hate the way that 50 amp cord pulls down on the twist-lock receptacle! I think I just found something to put on my Christmas list. :cool:
 
I hate the way that 50 amp cord pulls down on the twist-lock receptacle! I think I just found something to put on my Christmas list. :cool:
I had the same issue. I ended up buying a 2’ cord. The rv end was a 90 degree plug and the other end was straight and my cord just plugged into it
 
He wants a cable with the ends molded on at the factory to make it as waterproof as possible. We use the cable full time, the RV is always hooked to shore power.
You need to realize that burned blades on the RV power plug is something that happens from time to time and will happen no matter how well you maintain the RV. It can happen to a new plug if you connect to an outlet that is old & worn or burned by a bad plug belonging to a previous user. The replacement of power plugs is a relatively normal thing and if you are fulltime long enough it will happen again. Replacing the entire cord will not prevent that from happening again in the future. It is very easy to find quality replacement plugs that are watertight and which will serve just as well as one of those molded onto a power cord. Amazon has them as well as any good RV supply store.
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I had the same issue. I ended up buying a 2’ cord. The rv end was a 90 degree plug and the other end was straight and my cord just plugged into it
I had a 30 amp to 50 amp twist lock adapter like you describe - this way if I was on a 30 amp site, I could use the lighter 30 amp cord. I also used it when plugged into my 30 amp at home. Rain ended up seeping into the connection and fried it. I replaced the female end of the 30 amp cord and decided to buy a 25' 30 amp to 50 amp twist lock cord instead of using the adapter.
 
Here are the things to consider
30/50 amp? the park end on a 30 has 2 flat blades and one round or U shaped
50 hqs 3 flats + the round/u pin

RV end Attached (Tinned leads) 'Or detachable? Most detachable use MarinCo style marine
connectors but there are a few others but these are the most common


Next is how long. Self explanatory

Finally regular or "Winter grade" I like winter grade easier to wrangle
 
I was advised to shut off the power at the breaker on the pedestal before plugging or unplugging the cables. Also make sure you have a tight connection. No burn marks on my plugs. ;)

Safe travels and all the best.
 
I've replaced various cord ends over the years but never though about doing this. I hate the way that 50 amp cord pulls down on the twist-lock receptacle! I think I just found something to put on my Christmas list. :cool:
Here is a pic of the solution that I've been using for the last 5 years. A piece of 1/4 cord, a bowline knot on one end, a slip knot on the other end.......simple solution, and it just works. The bowline end slips over the recept which is anchored to the wall of the RV. Once that's done, plug in the cord and adjust if needed so that the 1/4" rope cord is holding up the weight of the 6/4 Power cord. It takes the strain off of the plug/recept and the wires inside the power cord.
 

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He doesn't like the price but is convinced it might be worth it.
Nothing that you do can prevent it from happening under any circumstances. Making sure that the power pedestal breaker is open before connecting is not only a good practice for the plug, but it is also a good practice for safety, and should always be done. It will help as well if you refuse any RV site where the outlet to plug into is in bad condition, weathered, or any signs of damage. A good outlet can be damaged when used by an RV with a plug that is in bad condition, and then the outlet will be damaged, and it will then arc to the pins of the next plug put into it and so start damage to it. But if an outlet looks new it is probably in reasonably good condition. If the outlet looks weathered, melted, or in any way shows previous damage, it probably is and will start damage to your power plug.
 

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