Slde out wont slide out

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djw2112

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Dec 30, 2018
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909
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East Texas
Hi, I moved my father (5iver) today from our onsite campground to his lot (owned) because the utilities were finally done, it is only about 4 blocks. He was at the campground for 2 months and everything worked fine. Once we got set up at the new place today we did all the leveling and hookups and then went to put the slideout out and nothing, no sound no nothing. We checked that we had power (good), we checked fuses and breakers (good), we checked the actual slideout switch (good). What else could it be? Just the motor itself is all thats left right? Bad motor? Can they go out just like that?

I know the slideout will chatter if its in a bind or done extending or done retracting, but it makes no noise at all, perfectly silent. It will also not do anything and is silent when disconnected from shore power also.

Any ideas? Is there a manual way to extend it, once its extended it will stay that way (no traveling)

Thanks..
 

djw2112

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Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Posts
909
Location
East Texas
Is that in the electric panel, i never heard of this kind of switch before, i dont have one on my 5iver.

Actually my dad just called and said there is no AC to any of the outlets. We tested the power from the main shore panel its fine, we are getting current at the other end of the power cord so thats fine. But for some reason just moving a few blocks triggered something where there is no AC to anything.

Before when this first happened i told him to test the Air Conditional and i heard it come on, now he just told me that he just did the fan.... so i thought he had power when he does not.... arggg communication breakdown ...

I do know that he disconnected the RV from the power and then unplugged it from the panel when he left the other place, its a removable cord you just plug and twist then screw on the ring.
 
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msw3113

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Aug 9, 2017
Posts
437
Location
New Hampshire
Battery(ies) may be too old to have sufficient amperage, even though the unit was plugged in to shore power. Jumping with another vehicle could supply enough to operate the slide.
 

Rob&Deryl

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Mar 27, 2017
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1,815
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On the road from mid NH
Find the salesman switch. Mine is on the front wall in the basement. Everything worked for me until it didn’t, batteries didn’t charge. Slides & jacks on my unit are hard wired to the batteries.
 

djw2112

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Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Posts
909
Location
East Texas
Hi, just an update here.. turns out the so called "electrician" who hooked up the new panel for the property put 240 V in the RV hookup. And yes it fried a bunch of stuff. I forgot to tell my dad to turn off all the breakers when he packed up (i always do that just in case). If he had done that it would have protected everything i think.

Anyway so the RV technician (mobile unit) replaced two GFCI what were burned, and also the converter which was fried. The TV blew a fuse inside and also the microwave blew the fuse inside, so we were lucky there, walmart has those fuses.

Question: does ceramic or non ceramic make a differerence for 250V 5A and 250V 20A fuses, is clear glass the same thing?

Also the fridge will only run on gas, its set to auto but goes to gas, so the tech said that it could be a fuse or the board itself, and he has both on his truck. Its a good thing the company that did this paid him back for the $500 (first bill) have not told them about the second bill yet. The tech said to keep checking stuff because something may go down later or be damaged because of this.

Of course the RV sales guy tried the hard sell for the surge protector of $150+

Rule number #5 of setting up anywhere regardless of the situation, check the outlet first to see the voltage before you plug into it.
 

MoInEd

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May 27, 2020
Posts
66
Location
Edmonton, AB
Wow! That must have been the janitor doing the electrical work. Such a mistake is beyond belief.
How did he run two hots there to begin with?!
 

Hvactech

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Jul 22, 2021
Posts
16
Location
Gilmer,Tx
Many a so called electrician/diy'er has put 240 on a 30amp 120V RV plug thinking it's just a dryer plug , NORMALLY, It doesn't matter on a 50 since "usually" a RV panel uses a " split bus ". My 50amp outlet is wired 240 and I'm actually putting in another one up at the shop & converting my old welder from a 3wire cord to a 4 so I have another parking spot for friends, have a 30 at the other shop.
Djw2112, I'm just north of Longview if you need some help.
 
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Ex-Calif

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May 15, 2020
Posts
2,216
Hi, just an update here.. turns out the so called "electrician" who hooked up the new panel for the property put 240 V in the RV hookup. And yes it fried a bunch of stuff. I forgot to tell my dad to turn off all the breakers when he packed up (i always do that just in case). If he had done that it would have protected everything i think.

Rule number #5 of setting up anywhere regardless of the situation, check the outlet first to see the voltage before you plug into it.
It would have protected everything until you turned something on...

This is clearly the techs fault. One could argue that you could have checked the power with a meter but that wasn't your job.

I certainly don't make it a habit of metering any new connection and one should not have to.

Good news that the tech is standing behind his screw up...
 

CharlesinGA

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Oct 6, 2017
Posts
666
Location
50 miles south of Atlanta, GA
Hi, just an update here.. turns out the so called "electrician" who hooked up the new panel for the property put 240 V in the RV hookup. And yes it fried a bunch of stuff.

Of course the RV sales guy tried the hard sell for the surge protector of $150+

Rule number #5 of setting up anywhere regardless of the situation, check the outlet first to see the voltage before you plug into it.
I read of this SO OFTEN on these forums (I frequent several) that its almost an everyday occurrence. Sad situation that an electrician gets so complacent that they cannot take the time to look at a electric receptacle and see what voltage it is designed for. There are several clues and the electrician cannot seem to pick up on them or make sure their helper is doing it correctly.

And the $150 "surge protector" may or may not have told you something was wrong, but the $250 version sometimes referred to as a Electrical Management System would have as it would have detected the high voltage and NOT allowed it to connect to the RV.

I certainly don't make it a habit of metering any new connection and one should not have to.

Good news that the tech is standing behind his screw up...

I do, "Trust But Verify". Even when I do the work myself, when I get done, I check every receptacle with a tester to make sure I hooked up the wires correctly. For voltage, If I installed the wire run and I know I used a single pole circuit breaker, I do not meter it, but if it is totally unfamiliar to me, I do check it. I wired my entire shop, 29 common 120v receptacles and a number of other 240v ones, plus a rather complex lighting system. I ran all of the conduit, pulled all of the wires, installed all of the components myself, but I still checked my work when I was done. Comes from being an aircraft mechanic all my life I suppose.

You should own one of these, Harbor Freight receptacle tester or similar device, I own several. I also have a Puck Adapter so I can plug it into a 30 amp TT receptacle and test it. And YES, I do have a Hughes Power Watchdog that I use every time I hook up at a campground.

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Charles
 

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Ex-Calif

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Posts
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>>I certainly don't make it a habit of metering any new connection and one should not have to.<<

I wasn't clear. I mean when I go to a new park or a new pad somewhere. Of course new installs get checked out.

I just had to convert a dryer wall socket from 4-wire 240 to 3 wire 120V. I double checked my work to make sure I didn't fry the dryer or electrocute someone.
 

djw2112

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Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Posts
909
Location
East Texas
Thanks for all the great tips.... yeah we finally got it all worked out. The community here paid the $900 bill for most everything including converter, refridgerator circut board, all the GFCI needed replaced, some fuses, some breakers, and some of the utility switchs and some other stuff i cant remember. But luckily the Air conditional was turned off and so it was ok. The employee had to pay for the TV and the microwave because the company would not pay for those. But seems like its all back as it was, no further damage has been found.

Speaking of microwave, what a pain in the tail.... i did not know till now that you cant just buy a walmart microwave and have it fit in the cover plate, its almost as if you "have" to buy a RV microwave to replace a RV microwave. So now we need to try to find some way to build a new cover for it that works.. This one has a huge gap around it now..


Djw2112, I'm just north of Longview if you need some help.

Hey, im at Lake Fork right outside of Quitman... good to know you.... GOD Bless Texas - Lets Go Brandon... :)
 
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