We have a 40 foot pusher with a 20 cubic foot residential fridge. It sits in storage for weeks at a time with the fridge on. Powered by solar. Kinda handy.
Solar Panels. Why??
- Thread starter Teach512
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Teach512
Member
Teach512
Member
Wow, sounds like I am not the only one going back and forth on the justification of solar. Like many have said here, we tend to dry camp. Most of the trips are weekend, but we often head out for two weeks at a time. Again, we use BLM or forest service-free camping sites. (No hook-ups.)
So much to learn about our new to us RV.
So much to learn about our new to us RV.
UTTransplant
Well-known member
Solar charges batteries. Batteries rarely can run ACs. Depends on batteries (lots of lithium) and wiring at the inverter.
steveblonde
Well-known member
An onan 5500 genny is $4000 US PLUS TAX SHIPPING AND INSTALL which is close to $6000 my guess all said and done. Gas at $1 per gallon would be 6000 gallons at $1.50 a gallon would be 4500 gallons at 1/2 gallon per hour i will be dead burried and long forgotten before its paid for itself. My old 5er we traded i had for 6 full camping seasons the genny had less than 250hrs on it.
Im trying to justify to myself a solar setup. But i cant. So im back to unhooking batteries every time we come back from a weekend trip
Im trying to justify to myself a solar setup. But i cant. So im back to unhooking batteries every time we come back from a weekend trip
Old_Crow
Well-known member
My Onan 5500 failed with 1350 hours on it. I sourced a low hour(<150)7000 Onan from Arizona RV Salvage in Phoenix for $2900+tax installed. They had more than one available.
It's been in the coach for just about a year now, and I've put around 100 hours on it in that time.
I workcamp in the summer and stay in one spot during the winter, so tend to only dry camp in November and March. At 70, I'm not sure I'd recoup the expense to add solar to my coach before I have to hang up the keys.
It's been in the coach for just about a year now, and I've put around 100 hours on it in that time.
I workcamp in the summer and stay in one spot during the winter, so tend to only dry camp in November and March. At 70, I'm not sure I'd recoup the expense to add solar to my coach before I have to hang up the keys.
Jayflight
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I am not sure where people are getting the figures for installing solar, unless they are going to rv shops to get the work done. Its easy to install and you can get a lot more for less for a few hours of work and excersize at the same time.
I have less than 1,500 bucks in 525 watts of solar, controller, 2 group 31 batteries and a 2000 watt Renogy inverter total. I can go five days as long as its sunny unless I want some ac to chill the camper down. Its was not about justifying the spending as much as the luxury of less hassle to deal with the gen and keeping my wet cell batteries up to snuff with a steady float charge and all the digital components even over time.
I have less than 1,500 bucks in 525 watts of solar, controller, 2 group 31 batteries and a 2000 watt Renogy inverter total. I can go five days as long as its sunny unless I want some ac to chill the camper down. Its was not about justifying the spending as much as the luxury of less hassle to deal with the gen and keeping my wet cell batteries up to snuff with a steady float charge and all the digital components even over time.
yes it can, however, you will not like the price tag.
solar is generally the most expensive form of power ( unless you live in california ) !
better to use a generator for such high loads..
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solar in itself is quite cost effective for certain situations, however, as soon as you add batteries to the equation, there will NEVER be any payback period. any gains are offset by the requirement to replace batteries when they inevitably fail. Solar is a pay to play game, any justifications for solar in an RV are not financial, it is for convenience and a peaceful camping experience. Like many others here, I have boondocked in places so quiet that one could hear the flame on a gas fridge. generators ruin that experience.
it's called PROFIT.. and that's the price one pays for having someone else install for you.
Old_Crow
Well-known member
My problem is the seasonal nature of my travels. I'm at a full hookup site about 10 months out of the year, and the solar would just be a waste.
When traveling, I generally limit my generator usage to breakfast and dinner hours, when I'm in the coach. For the most part that amount of time, combined with alternator charging while driving takes care of my charging needs.
If I'm sitting outside enjoying the solitude, I won't be running the generator.
If I traveled full time, it would be a different story.
Yes. But our coach isn’t wired that way and we would have to double what we have on the roof. If you have the roof real estate and the wallet there is no reason you couldn’t run an air conditioner. Not necessary for us.
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
They're out there...the previous owner of my RV paid a shop in CA $1200 for a 120W panel and a $30 POS controller install.
I'm not sure a lot of folks understand the relationship of all the costs and benefits of residential solar. Whenever the local solar outfits come knocking on my door they never seem to be able to answer my questions, which tells me not a lot of people are challenging them on this. All they know is the sun is "free" and my meter will spin backwards. I have yet to see an installation proposed that will spin my checking account backwards.
RV solar is never really about payback. Just as the RV itself isn't an investment with a return (!), solar is just a feature or accessory that gives you the functionality you desire - to run your stuff. No different than leveling jacks, heated floors or remote control window shades. If the price of admission is worth it to you, you get the feature and life is good.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Jayflight
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The single panel output has been increasing. So a 300 watt or a 375 fits a simular space as the 100 watt that seems to be the standard in the previous packages sold . So the sky is the limit and all dependent on how much you wish to spend on matching the related equipment, types of batteries included. For me personally if I live the ten years life span as what is advertised on the two well known lithiums I can probably need to refresh my 140 bucks group 31 Interstate batteries probably one time. That equates to a ton of savings. And since I do not have the room that I want to sacrifice inside for all weather charging, its a no brainer. And I am not worried about the added weight the wet cells create.
Memtb
Well-known member
This answer is purely from our perspective and may not be relevant to anyone else's situation!
We often camp during fall or winter months, meaning that we have a large drain on batteries. We also leave the rv for extended periods of time during the day!
We would not be comfortable with leaving the generator running for extended periods while we’re away....yet wish to maintain battery charge. The panels will help maintain the batteries in our absence helping assure that the forced air heater can/will maintain the rv temperatures. Once we arrive back to camp.....we can then run the generator to bring the batteries back to full charge. Next day.....repeat! memtb
We often camp during fall or winter months, meaning that we have a large drain on batteries. We also leave the rv for extended periods of time during the day!
We would not be comfortable with leaving the generator running for extended periods while we’re away....yet wish to maintain battery charge. The panels will help maintain the batteries in our absence helping assure that the forced air heater can/will maintain the rv temperatures. Once we arrive back to camp.....we can then run the generator to bring the batteries back to full charge. Next day.....repeat! memtb
first thing to do is establish the wattage drain, then add the self discharge rate to that figure.
say your drain is 1 Amp and you have 12 Volt lead acid batteries.
watts = volts * amps therefore your drain = 12 W
lead acid self discharge is approx 5%/month, so multiply your A/h capacity by 5%
eg: 100 A/h would be 100 * 0.05 = 5 A/hr
watt hours is therefore 12 Volts * 5 Amps = 60 W/h / 30 days = 2 W/h per day
drain for one day = 12 Watts * 24 hours + 2 = 290 Watt/hours
from your sig. location = Calgary, sun insolation worst case = 3.1 hours.
panel size = (290 x 1.5) / 3.1 gives 140 watts, so round up to a 150 Watt panel
and your good to go even in winter.
just an approximation, measure and insert your actual value in place of my example 12
and run the calculation. you will have a good idea of panel size to maintain your system..
