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You have mentioned fifth wheel towing in your experience. The camper you started looking at is a tow behind.

They tow differently.

When approaching max weight on a tow vehicle I much prefer a fifth wheel setup. It keeps the truck loaded properly and is easier to handle. Look into a hitch and see if there is a trailer that fits your needs.

Also if you can get your intended purchase inspected by a certified inspector:

Locate one with this link.

They could save you much heartache. They work for you, not the dealer.
 
I posted this earlier -

This is about the tow vehicle.

5321 - Base weight before people, gas and any WD hitch you add. 4 pax @ 175 (700#) + 20 gallons of gas at 6#/gal (120#) WD hitch 300# + 200 miscellaneous =
6700 = Rolling weight subtracted from GVWR of 7850 max (?) =
1350# Available payload for trailer tongue weight + 6700 =

Note I added 200 for misc and overestimated the weight of the hitch.

So max combined weight estimate is 6700 + 8000 = 14700

You don't add the tongue weight again - it is just a limit that you can't exceed on the truck hitch.

In my post it looks like the CGVWR is 17100#

The good news is the engine and brakes are well under max stress. And it is still clear the truck is limited by tongue weight.

In reality the 8,000 for the trailer becomes 7040 (960 tongue weight transferred to the truck) and the truck weight becomes 7660, just under the 7850 max on the truck.

Someone smart on WDH can chime in as I do not know how much the hitch weight reduces. In theory this could mean a heavier trailer but I think you will be happy with the above limits and if you install a WDH it's gravy on the biscuits while providing a better tow.
 
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Bent Valve said:
You have mentioned fifth wheel towing in your experience. The camper you started looking at is a tow behind.

They tow differently.

When approaching max weight on a tow vehicle I much prefer a fifth wheel setup. It keeps the truck loaded properly and is easier to handle. Look into a hitch and see if there is a trailer that fits your needs.

Also if you can get your intended purchase inspected by a certified inspector:

Locate one with this link.

They could save you much heartache. They work for you, not the dealer.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link! I haven't found a used one yet that is a good fit for the TV but I'll definitely use it if I do. It's like buying a yacht--better have that survey done right?!
 
Ex-Calif said:
I posted this earlier -

This is about the tow vehicle.

5321 - Base weight before people, gas and any WD hitch you add. 4 pax @ 175 (700#) + 20 gallons of gas at 6#/gal (120#) WD hitch 300# + 200 miscellaneous =
6700 = Rolling weight subtracted from GVWR of 7850 max (?) =
1350# Available payload for trailer tongue weight + 6700 =

Note I added 200 for misc and overestimated the weight of the hitch.

So max combined weight estimate is 6700 + 8000 = 14700

You don't add the tongue weight again - it is just a limit that you can't exceed on the truck hitch.

In my post it looks like the CGVWR is 17100#

The good news is the engine and brakes are well under max stress. And it is still clear the truck is limited by tongue weight.

In reality the 8,000 for the trailer becomes 7040 (960 tongue weight transferred to the truck) and the truck weight becomes 7660, just under the 7850 max on the truck.

Someone smart on WDH can chime in as I do not know how much the hitch weight reduces. In theory this could mean a heavier trailer but I think you will be happy with the above limits and if you install a WDH it's gravy on the biscuits while providing a better tow.
Click to expand...
I keep reading this and am getting confused. Does the hitch (attached to the chassis) rating matter? I think it's supposed to tow 11,000 lbs. The receiver and ball I get need to be rated correctly for the TT so I'll make sure they are. I have to check the ones I have and/or buy the right ones. I'm getting a WDH for certain. Not sure which one yet. Bottom line is the TT I want is the 2022 Salem Cruise Lite 28VBXL by Forest River. The trailer mass ("sail") is 30' or a little shorter (overall is 33'17" so take away 3 or 4 feet for the hitch/bumper) and my truck should be okay with this length of "sail." The dry weight is 6208 and the payload is 1582, which is not a lot. The hitch weight is 790. I've narrowed this one down so am I wrong to think my TV is adequate for this TT?
 
The trailer is gonna weigh 7,790# - Of that 12% should be balanced forward of the axle or 934#.

A WD hitch doesn't change that weight. What it does is distribute the weight from directly over the rear hitch more forward on the vehicle by tying into the frame.

So instead of all 934# being on the ball about 30% is distributed forward, directly into the frame with the effect that the front and rear axle share the load.

But note all 934# still goes into the tow vehicle and is considered as part of two vehicle payload.

Once again with your vehicle and this 7,790# trailer you are OK in my book.
 
Kirk said:
Read this article as it does a pretty good job of explaining.

TRAILER TOWING – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW​

Click to expand...
Thank you, this article is awesome. I will certainly make sure to buy an equalizer WDH with built in sway control. And I will make sure to have it professionally installed. The dealership where the TT will be delivered that I picked out offered to sell me the Blue Ox WDH and install it for like $500 I think. I'm leaning towards having them do it.
This is scary stuff and I've got to get it right. I'm searching for a CAT weigh station to weigh my truck. It has side boards and I was planning to get a locking tonneau cover...I might as well put the generator in the truck bed when I go to weight it...
 
Ex-Calif said:
The trailer is gonna weigh 7,790# - Of that 12% should be balanced forward of the axle or 934#.

A WD hitch doesn't change that weight. What it does is distribute the weight from directly over the rear hitch more forward on the vehicle by tying into the frame.

So instead of all 934# being on the ball about 30% is distributed forward, directly into the frame with the effect that the front and rear axle share the load.

But note all 934# still goes into the tow vehicle and is considered as part of two vehicle payload.

Once again with your vehicle and this 7,790# trailer you are OK in my book.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much. While you were typing this I was adding up the numbers and multiplying by .12 and go the same numbers. I also read that article. I understand the weight doesn't go away, rather is distributed around the TV and TT axles. Now I need to focus on getting the correct WDH. I am also going to buy one of those tire minder devices I saw in one of All About RV's videos on YouTube.

I wonder if I should sell my Champion 4000 watt dual fuel generator and buy an inverter generator also dual fuel. I heard how much quieter they are and that they will fit under a tonneau cover...Are they lighter as well? The Champion I have is heavier than $^%%&#. I can't lift it into the truck by myself.
 
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Yesterday I went to the store to buy lunch. I was passed by a Ford F150 towing a very long travel trailer that I would guess to be 35 to 37 feet long. The TT was considerably longer than the TV. You could not pay me enough money to drive that combination around the block.
 
Kirk said:
Read this article as it does a pretty good job of explaining.

TRAILER TOWING – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW​

Click to expand...
Excellent article and just priceless info. I am getting an equalizer WDH with 1200# rating and built in sway control on the rig I just bought, installation to be done at the dealership. West Texas here I come. I bought the Forest River Wildwood X Lite 28VBXL model with the lovely little bunkhouse in the rear for my kiddo's privacy (and my peace) plus a really cool gas fireplace, outdoor kitchen, two AC units, electric stabilizer jacks, 12v battery, propane tanks filled, RVer's starter kit, technician tour (I will try to video this) of how to operate everything...whew sigh of relief. The dealer now has only 3 of this model on their lot. LOL Hey do I need an additional 12v battery??

You guys are all amazing and I thank you mucho for all your advice and guidance which I would be at a serious disadvantage without. I will continue posting in this thread as the adventure develops in case there are others out there who need knowledge like I do/did/still do and will forever. Now I know why I never became a structural engineer.

--Campkitty
 
SeilerBird said:
Yesterday I went to the store to buy lunch. I was passed by a Ford F150 towing a very long travel trailer that I would guess to be 35 to 37 feet long. The TT was considerably longer than the TV. You could not pay me enough money to drive that combination around the block.
Click to expand...
Oh yah my thoughts too. The one I got is below 30' sail mass. I know what it feels like to be blown around. No thanks!
 
Ex-Calif said:
You might want to start a new thread about pros and cons of Generators vs. Invert Generators.

Don't forget that the weight of the generator is gonna eat into your truck payload...

Here's a dual fuel unit that weighs in at around 100# that comes with a 30 amp RV socket.


This one is gas only but only weighs 50 pounds.

Click to expand...
I will definitely plow through the forum for threads on this subject before I post a thread asking the question(s). I don't want to be "that guy" with the loud (ars) construction type generator in the resort. I watched All About RV's video on the inverter generators and I have an open mind. I can sell the one I have to my wretched neighbors suffering with constant power shut offs compliments of ...well I'll leave politics out of this. Since it's so heavy I really would prefer two smaller inverter generators and a locking tonneau cover. Can you run those things inside a locked tonneau cover? See now the questions are already getting in the weeds xD
 
campkitty said:
Hey do I need an additional 12v battery??
Click to expand...
Maybe...This will depend on how often you are plugged into AC. When we got our TT I changed over to 2 - 6 volt true deep cycle batteries. They have served me VERY well.

campkitty said:
Can you run those things inside a locked tonneau cover?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't recommend it.. I bought a cable to lock ours to the tie downs in the back of the truck. I just fold back the cover and start the generator.
 
campkitty said:
. Can you run those things inside a locked tonneau cover?
Click to expand...
If you were to do that the engine would run until the exhaust overtook the supply of oxygen and then stop. It would make everything inside stink and could be dangerous since it would make the space full of CO. That would be a very foolish thing to attempt and where would you put the power cord?

What most of us do when running a generator is to use a high quality bicycle lock to fasten it down.
 
Generators are a whole 'nother topic that would likely benefit from it's own thread if you care to do a deep dive but I think nothing says "loser" in a campground faster than some guy running a contractor genset. Inverter gensets generally check the box but once you get north of 3kW they're still unwieldy. One option some folks go with is two smaller inverter sets with a parallel cable. So you still end up with the same net weight and power but it's split across 2 units, and if you don't need their net capacity you can choose to run just one. My class A has a 4kW genset built in but I still carry a small inverter genset I'll run when all I need is a warm fuzzy to top off the batteries or run an appliance or two for a bit. The advantage is I can carry it off into the woods as far as the cord will go, lock it to a tree with a bicycle cable and let it putter away. No sound or exhaust anywhere near the campsite or camper. Over time it's worked out great to have an easily carried portable unit for just in case and more than once I was able to offer it to someone that needed it.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
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