Suburban water heater anode problem

[over40pirate]

Where the anode screws in is a round headed (no hex) fitting with a 1/4" pipe plug, screwed into it.
I took the 1/4" pipe plug out and water and anode sludge came out.
I can't see how to remove the "round" fitting the plug was in.
Anyone else see one like this before?
Thinking of a plumbing basin wrench, but can't find mine!

Can't see how to attach a picture here. ??

 

[grashley]

My Suburban WH has a hex head.  Yours is some aftermarket system to allow draining the tank without removing the anode.  Why is this needed?  I have no idea.  A pic would help.

Below the "Post Reply" box, click "Attachments and other options", then select a file to attach.
There is a 350kb file size limit, that is often an issue.  On my Apple, I downloaded the free version of "Resize Lite", which works great to make the file smaller.  Ask if you need the windows method.  I do not know it, but others do.

If there is room, after removing the burner tube, you may be able to get a pipe wrench on the plug. 

My suggestion is to scrap the valve setup and replace it with a new anode.  You can not properly flush the tank through that drain hole.  Drain by removing the anode rod / plug.  Thoroughly rinse with a HWH heater rinse tube at least once a year.  You essentially "inspect" the anode every time you drain the heater.  Use a 1 1/16" socket and a short extension on a ratchet, and the anode comes out easily.  A bit of Teflon tape or plumber's grease, and the plug comes out fairly easily.

 

[over40pirate]

No room to get a pipe wrench on it. See picture.
As a temp measure, I replaced the plug with a brass 1/8" hollow pipe plug, that I tapped the inside to 1/8" fpt. Then turned down an anode rod, threaded it, and screwed to the plug. Won't last long, but better than none.

I chose the file picture to attach, but it doesn't give the option to upload.
I'll post the reply, and see if the picture is in it.

 

[Great Horned Owl]

Your photo did attach. It appears that the anode was replaced by this makeshift system. Your best bet to remove it will be either a #4 or #5 EZ Out, whichever one fits. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-America-Carbon-Steel-Screw-Drill-Bit-Extractor-Set-with-5-Extractors-Sizes-1-5-5-Pieces-DEWEZS1-5/304746377?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-7_POWER+TOOL+ACCESSORIES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034127227%7c58700003933021549%7c92700031755124913&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpNKV2I2j3gIVUuDICh201wKPEAQYBSABEgL7LfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds.

If the fitting is corroded in, an impact wrench might be needed to unscrew it.

Joel

 

[namumac1]

Lots of PB Blaster on those threads. You don't want to break off the EZ out!

 

[SpencerPJ]

Use lots of PB Blaster on the threads. You don't want to break the EZ out off.

) ) )  Let it soak for a while  ) ) )

A small torch, heat it up, after PB Blaster will work as well.  Find a socket that fits it.

 

[jubileee]

My waiter heater has the same set up as yours except I have a petcock instead of the pipe plug. That is not the anode. The anode is on the other side of the tank.

 

[Rene T]

My waiter heater has the same set up as yours except I have a petcock instead of the pipe plug. That is not the anode. The anode is on the other side of the tank.

Are you saying that your anode is not part of the drain plug? Mmm.  Never heard of anode  being on the backside of the tank.

 

[jubileee]

Are you saying that your anode is not part of the drain plug? Mmm.  Never heard of anode  being on the backside of the tank.

Yeah, me either until we bought this unit in July. It?s a 6 gallon Suburban in a Roadtrek class B.

 

[Rene T]

Yeah, me either until we bought this unit in July. It?s a 6 gallon Suburban in a Roadtrek class B.

That's a stupid place to put it. I would not be able to get to the backside to change it out without a ton of work. What's the model of your heater?

 

[HappyWanderer]

Is that a propane/electric water heater or just propane? Could that be an adapter screwed into the drain plug, for use with an aftermarket electric heating element?

 

[reniram]

When  I winterized our 2018 (new) 29 ve Winnie I pulled the water heater plug and noticed the anode was already starting to deteriorate where the rod is attached to the plug!...Is this normal ? This is a brand new rig and we have not camped in it yet... do you suppose that water has been sitting in the  water heater all summer at the RV store and it is doing it's job..? Do you wait until the rod drops off before it's replaced...it would be difficult to try and probe it out of the hole...Is this something that you automatically change out each season? My other rigs have not had this fitted...

 

[jubileee]

That's a stupid place to put it. I would not be able to get to the backside to change it out without a ton of work. What's the model of your heater?

VFDSI-6-3. Not so stupid in my application. Open cabinet door under sink and there?s the hot water heater. Control board, inlet/outlet connections, anode,bypass valve,water pump and lines staring you right in the face. Very handy.

 

[Rene T]

VFDSI-6-3. Not so stupid in my application. Open cabinet door under sink and there?s the hot water heater. Control board, inlet/outlet connections, anode,bypass valve,water pump and lines staring you right in the face. Very handy.

Yours is one of the few that has easy access.

 

[jubileee]

Mine is propane only. What OP is looking at is the drain. That 1/2 dollar size rusty looking area around the 1/4 inch pipe threads is just welded in there so that they could have enough meat to tap the threads for drain.

 

[jubileee]

Yours is one of the few that has easy access.

I know. All our previous units had the anode/drain on the outside. Been near impossible to change if inside. When we got this outfit, I had decided it didn?t have anode. I had one left over from our Bounder and almost gave it away before I found out it was on the INSIDE and changed it out.

 

[Rene T]

When  I winterized our 2018 (new) 29 ve Winnie I pulled the water heater plug and noticed the anode was already starting to deteriorate where the rod is attached to the plug!...Is this normal ? This is a brand new rig and we have not camped in it yet... do you suppose that water has been sitting in the  water heater all summer at the RV store and it is doing it's job..? Do you wait until the rod drops off before it's replaced...it would be difficult to try and probe it out of the hole...Is this something that you automatically change out each season? My other rigs have not had this fitted...

The sacrificial anode is either zinc or magnesium. I could be wrong on the material. Whatever it is, it is molded around a steel rod around 3/16" diameter. Keep using it until you get down close to the rod then replace it. Nothing will fall into the tank.

It would be normal for your rod to start deteriorating if the water which was in the tank had allot of harmful minerals. The rod was just doing it's job.

Here is a good picture showing new and old.

https://www.campingworld.com/suburban-anode-rod-replacement?CAWELAID=120030630000006672&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpvGFgaKl3gIVkoppCh2u_gZHEAQYAyABEgLpXfD_BwE

 

[grashley]

You can see the Model number in OP's pic.  It is the same as Jubilee has.

Problem solved.  That IS the drain in the pic.  Anode is on opposite side of the tank.

Unusual, but not unique setup!

 

[Lou Schneider]

I fail to see why anyone would want the water drain to be on the backside of the water heater, so the water drains to the inside of the RV.  Having it on the outside so the water drains harmlessly on the ground makes much more sense.

 

[over40pirate]

Are you saying that your anode is not part of the drain plug? Mmm.  Never heard of anode  being on the backside of the tank.

YES!  Thank you very much. I have only read about the anode on the outside behind the burner tube. I now see it's inside, and very accessible!

And to think I turned down an anode rod, threaded it into a brass pipe plug and put it in!  Big waste of time and a $5 anode rod!

Thanks again.