Suburban water heater problem

Kheren

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2017
Posts
148
Location
Pinetop, Az.
Water heater quit working on electric after 7 months (used motorhome) I’ve replaced the element and checked breakers and fuses. Only works on propane. What’s my next step? Thanks.
 
If you post the make and model of your water heater we can supply you with a link to download a copy of the service manual and probably be able to help figure it out. The controls and wiring are quite different depending on what you have. The make & model of motorhome might make some difference as well.
 
If you post the make and model of your water heater we can supply you with a link to download a copy of the service manual and probably be able to help figure it out. The controls and wiring are quite different depending on what you have. The make & model of motorhome might make some difference as well.

Thank you! I know it’s a 10 gallon suburban ( not near it at the moment to get exact model) and the motorhome is a 2000 (?) Rexhall Rose Air. The propane switch is above stove and electric switch outside by the tank access.
 
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So I found this video for thermostat. I will look into this. I just like real people experiences…
 
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On the outside open the access door. Look at the lower left hand corner there should be be a switch. Suburbans had them. That switch kills the power to the element. Remove that switch and see if there is power on the backside
 
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On the outside open the access door. Look at the lower left hand corner there should be be a switch. Suburbans had them. That switch kills the power to the element. Remove that switch and see if there is power on the backside
I did notice that on/off switch is hard to move. I have it on off now since there’s no electric working. Not sure how to remove that? Looks as if everything would have to be disconnected to remove metal plate around it? What do you mean “power on backside?”
 
I did notice that on/off switch is hard to move. I have it on off now since there’s no electric working. Not sure how to remove that? Looks as if everything would have to be disconnected to remove metal plate around it? What do you mean “power on backside?”
Back of the switch has 2 wires. Either run a jumper between those two wire or remove them from the switch and connect them to each other.
You should be able to pop the switch out with a small screwdriver or a jackknife
 
Back of the switch has 2 wires. Either run a jumper between those two wire or remove them from the switch and connect them to each other.
You should be able to pop the switch out with a small screwdriver or a jackknife
Oh I see. Thanks so much!
 
Give that switch a shot of electric contact cleaner, and work it a few times while power to the RV is off. That might make it easier to move.
Have you tested to see if 120v is present at the main breaker for the water heater? Next would be testing the on/off switch for voltage there, you must find a ground wire too, for the switch just opens/closes the hot leg wire.
 
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It’ll be a week or so before I get to it due to heavy snow.
When you go back, take your multimeter with you and get some readings. The switch you have might be for the entire water heater as some models have a service switch to disable the water heater when a tech is working on it. The disable switch would have 12V while the electric heater switch would have 120V. The model of the water heater is important for us to give valid answers. Also, is the 120V side OEM or was it added later with an after market kit?
 
I’m back for help! Sorry it took 3 months but desperate now as the propane side also quit working last week! Ugh. Here are the parts we replaced today and nothing.
Thermostats
Circuit board
Electric on/off switch
Pressure relief valve
In March when replaced anode rod I also replaced heating element.
What am I missing?
When trying propane you can hear it click but nothing, no smell of propane. The toggle inside turns red and then off after a few seconds. Turned it to electric since all parts are new and still no hot water 8 hours later. We are at a loss now. Thanks for any advice.
IMG_5085.jpeg
IMG_5084.jpeg
 
Went back out there and noticed where we put new thermostats was really hot! Like almost melting the plastic reset cover. The new ones seem a tad wider than the old so the metal rod may be touching the plastic. Maybe we need to consider a whole new tank? Putting old one back on I guess
 
Did you test any of the parts before you replaced them? Generally when something quits working it's one fault. One repair method is to start replacing things until it works, but it's pretty inefficient. Testing the voltages and functions of the components is a better way to go. Judging by what's been replaced so far I'd have to wonder if the problem is external to the unit. Do you have a voltmeter to troubleshoot with?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Did you test any of the parts before you replaced them? Generally when something quits working it's one fault. One repair method is to start replacing things until it works, but it's pretty inefficient. Testing the voltages and functions of the components is a better way to go. Judging by what's been replaced so far I'd have to wonder if the problem is external to the unit. Do you have a voltmeter to troubleshoot with?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
We did not test parts before replacing. Just ordered all the “suspicious “ parts. We do have a multimeter. Been online trying to see what things should read. Been at it all day, will try again in the morning. I appreciate your response and welcome any feedback.
 

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