Suggestions for motorhome garage

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Eagleman

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Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Posts
9
Starting the planning process for building a garage for my Greyhawk motorhome.  It's been good to me and I want to get it out of the weather.  I want to combine the garage with an addition for ATV, UTV, mower and supplies area.  Third area would be a finished room with possible old wood stove.  More of the man cave theme without the TV and fridge.  Looking for suggestions regarding design ( dimensions, concrete flooring, doors, windows, skylights, etc) and the usual if I had known now when I built it I would have done this differently thoughts.
 

JerArdra

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Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Posts
1,814
Our Motorhome Garage

First I'll give you the dimensions and then some further modifications if I were doing it again.

Our MH garage dimensions are 50 feet long and 18 feet wide.  The inside ceiling is 16 feet high.  The door is 12 feet wide and 13 feet high (the door header gives 13 feet overhead clearance).  The sewer drain is 18 feet back from the overhead entry door so it is in close proximity to the coach's sewer drain.  There is one 50 amp and one 20 amp electric socket each on their own breakers.  I also have water so there is water, sewer, and electric.  We live is Las Vegas so we installed an air cooler (swamp cooler).  There are 12 two-tube florescent lights around the perimeter of the ceiling 30 inches in from the wall.  Do NOT put them in the middle of the ceiling.  You will get poor lighting if you do because the height of the MH will block the light.  The overhead door is insulated with styrofoam insulation.  The garage is insulated.  There are three windows on each side of the 50 foot length.

If I were doing it with more space on my lot I would make it 60 to 65 feet long in order to have more storage space for other "stuff" at the front of the MH.  Also, it would add value at resale if the purchaser had a 45 foot MH.  Even though there is plenty of room to open the slide outs and walk around them I would make it 20 to 22 feet wide.  Bigger is better and it makes the garage more valuable.  If you think that a Prevost owner might ever buy your property, should you sell it, make the overhead door clearance 14 feet because the newest Prevost MHs with a dome type satellite dish require 13 feet 6 inches of clearance.  The bottom line is, make it larger when you first build it because it is MUCH more expensive to modify it later.

One more MAJOR point, our MH garage is connected to our automobile garage using a 9' by 9' opening and the auto garage has an entry door directly into the house.  After having a MH garage for 10 years we have come to the conclusion that being able to walk from the house into the auto garage and on to the MH garage is the nicest feature of having a MH garage.  Any time we load it, unload it, clean it, or work on it whether it's Winter or Summer it's just a delight to have the whole "shebang" indoors.

JerryF
 

ennored

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Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Posts
462
Ours is attached and small, but LOVE it being attached. Need syrup? "I think there's some in the motorhome" Off I go in socks to get it.

One thing I kind of wish I did was to have a second sewer connection. I have to pull mine out to dump someone else's. We have done that a couple times. Easier to drive to my Mom's a couple miles away her dump is outdoors, done that too. 

 

JerArdra

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Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Posts
1,814
ennored,

When we lived in California our outdoor sewer connection next to the house was not near the coach.

We could use it with the "Sewer Connection" which is a "water powered" dump system.  It worked even though it had to pump about 15-18 feet horizontal and 12 inches vertical distance using a 1" diameter hose..  Google Sewer Solution.

Also, I imagine that if a person had an electrical powered macerater they could dump over an even longer distance.

JerryF
 

Betty Brewer

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Joined
Mar 10, 2005
Posts
4,756
Eagleman,

We pretty much followed Jerry's suggestions for our 50 x20 foot  garage.  One nice feature for us that DH lined up all windows in garage to match windows in RV.  The  windshield faces a window the size of our front windshield yielding a view of our golf course.  So when we are inside the garage we can see out.  It is less of a cave that way. VERY VERY convenient to go get the  syrup or sweaters.  We  need not unload it  completely as all of our stuff is  right there. Go for it!
 

garyb1st

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Dec 31, 2010
Posts
3,931
Location
Southern California
Just read a post in another forum about an owners hindsight regarding what he would have done different.  Lighting as Jerry mentioned is important.  His was all on the ceiling and didn't provide adequate lighting for the sides of his motorhome.  His suggestion was to have the lighting about 8 feet high along the sides as well as lighting overhead.  Another point was to have hookups on both sides.  Sometimes he likes to pull in forward and is unable to connect when he does.  Backing in was a challenge because of the lack of light.  Another suggested some kind of lighting markers at the back of the garage on three foot stakes which would provide targets for backing in.  Another thing to consider is a pit.  Any diy is sure to find that handy.
 

taoshum

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Joined
May 21, 2009
Posts
2,679
Location
Taos, NM
Another suggestion... if you add solar PV panels to the roof, there's a chance that you can get a 30% tax rebate for the solar facility that provides shade for some vehicles... BTW, it will also offset the CO2 from the diesel fuel you burn when you are gone....
 

johnandcarol

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Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Posts
132
Location
North Brookfield MA
I am very happy with my 24'x41' garage from Eagle Carports. My 28' class C goes on one side and my towdolly and pontoon boat on the otherside. I wired it up with 14 standard florescent lights. 7 per side. Cost 7k for the concrete foundation and floor and 10k for the building. I  have a single 12'x12' door. I even got married in it on Sept.15th.
 

Superstock

Active member
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Posts
32
Here is what I believe is the right way to do this. Size and floor won't matter much, a small heater in the MH and most important a dehumidifier. The dehumidifier is the key, depending on how much and what kind of wood and metals are in the structure is very important. You can find out online what best suits your application if you search for humdity information . I have approx. 2000sqf. and maintain 55 to 60 percent humidty. No rust no problems with concrete or wood work, I reside in the northwest so different regions may have different needs. By the way I run a hose from my dehumidifier to the outdoors, I need to clean it out about once a year and thats it. I'm not an expert only stating from experience.
Gary
 

sugarbear

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Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Posts
20
Haven't built mine yet but plan on putting a pit in it with a slide top. ( tornadoes are bad in this area.) Also on the pad I have now is a yellow stripe where the wheels track with a stopping stripe. It helps the spotter know exactly where it needs to go without hitting anything or having to walk around it to make sure it is right.
 

ArdraF

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Feb 12, 2006
Posts
10,674
Re: lights in a motorhome garage.  As Jerry mentioned we got a lot of them!  The electrician thought we were nuts and kept asking if we really needed all those lights to which we replied "YES".  We love them and are so glad we didn't listen to him.  We can work out there at night or on overcast days and see what we need to see.  As to ceiling vs. wall - you need more above so you can work on the  roof with good light.  We don't have any on the walls and don't miss them after 12 years.

The one thing we missed is two places that need electrical receptacles.  We thought we got enough but missed those.  So lights and electrical receptacles are two items you cannot have too many of in an RV garage!  ;)

ArdraF
 

ArdraF

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Feb 12, 2006
Posts
10,674
To paraphrase Winston Churchill, I am easily satisfied with the very best.  ::) ::)  Seriously, though, if you're going to go the expense of building an RV garage, you want to make sure you get what you need because it's too hard and expensive to retrofit later!  We were lucky that our builder's husband wanted to build an RV garage at their new house.  As she said, she knew how to build it, she just didn't know the specs and what to put where.  She loved Jerry's drawings and lists.

ArdraF
 

mphy98

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Jun 30, 2008
Posts
244
build as big as you can on your land.  my pole barn is 75' by 150' with cement floors and 20' high ceilings.  it is barely big enough for all the different toys and cars.  it started out that way but as a bigger boat came in then jet skis, and 4 wheelers with trailer, vette mustang gt convert, work shop etc.  the back 3rd is insulated with a 9' ceiling that has storage overhead with a real stairway to it.  I can heat the back half in 10 minutes from 0 to 65 with just a small heater so it is only heated when I work on something back there.  I wish it had a hyrdonic heat in the floor when built but I did not build it so now would be cost prohibitive.  So remember that when you build it, you will in a year or two wish it was bigger.
 

therealsimpsons

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Joined
Aug 23, 2009
Posts
1,403
Location
1 mile south of the Cheddar Curtain
johnandcarol said:
I am very happy with my 24'x41' garage from Eagle Carports. My 28' class C goes on one side and my towdolly and pontoon boat on the otherside. I wired it up with 14 standard florescent lights. 7 per side. Cost 7k for the concrete foundation and floor and 10k for the building. I  have a single 12'x12' door. I even got married in it on Sept.15th.

Congratulations on your marriage! A nice story for the grandchildren, "yes, we really did get married in an RV garage!"
 
P

PatrioticStabilist

Guest
We built an 18 X 44 motorhome garage.  The land slopped so much and we had to do so much fill it would have been difficult to make it wider, but I kind of wish we had.

We have to have it wired yet and Tom has lots of lights put in so that will help also as we will need lots of light.
 

George Lewis

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Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Posts
117
Location
Boerne, TX
I have two 30X40 barns with 16 wide, 13' high doors.  One for Bounder, motorcycles, 4 wheeler, etc.  The other has my tractor, farm trailer, riding mower. etc.  Figure what you need and add 30%....put in a 120v outlet every 8-10' and a 30 or 50 amp outlet for your coach.  Figure what the largest motorhome you will ever own and store in your building and build accordingly...I have mine so I can extend the length as needed...I doult I would ever need a m/h longer than 36' or so.  I put in transparent panels in the roof so I don't need lights in the daytime.  I also but in a nezzanine on one side, 8' high with stairs...lots of storage for stuff I will need next week and have not touched in five years....ha ha  Lots of fun.
 

huntnski

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Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Posts
122
Location
Arkansas
My choice was a 24 x 40 metal shop w 14 x 20 door and was all we needed till now. Trading in or 34 ft 5th wheel for a 40+ ft class a has me now adding 6 ft in length. I have awalkin door and no windows. The choice of no windows keeps thugs guessing if I'm home or on a trip. 30amp and 20amp plugs and a sewer dump in floor for those last few times we need to go when heading home on a trip. Ample lighting along with opening large door has allowed us to bed out of state visitors while using ac.That's my choice for a garage.
 

ArdraF

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Joined
Feb 12, 2006
Posts
10,674
The main thing to take into account is that you probably will change to a longer RV at some future time and you will no longer be able to fit in the current garage.  OOOPS!  We had a 34' when we built ours and within two years moved up to a 40' which really is over 41'.  Luckily the garage is 50' long but we wondered when we brought the new one home whether we'd have to find another place for all the stuff stored at the front of the garage.  It fit!  ;D

ArdraF
 
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