Sway Bars and WDH for a 25 BHS Trailer

[Ex-Calif]

Just bought a FR 25 BHS. I haven't weighed it but empty is listed around 4800#. Loaded will likely be around 6000"

I will likely also carry a generator in the truck bed.

Tow vehicle is 2019 Ram 1500 Tradesman Classic 5.7 hemi with 100k miles, 8600# rating and 1800# payload.

Trailer brake module installed.

In the storage bay are sway bars. My question is how do they hook up and work?

I am slightly familiar with load distributing hitches and this is not that.

I towed about 140 miles home. On state highway at 60 I got 12mpg.

On the freeway at 70 I got 8.5mpg.

I slowed to 65 and got 11mpg. I think that's gonna be my target speed.

I had zero sway issues even when wind plowed by semis. I did get a little porpoising when I hit a weird dip but no side to side instability.

Also monitored oil, coolant and tranny temps. 225, 204 and 185 respectively on a 95 degree day so we'll pleased.

Any thoughts to this newbie tow captain is appreciated.

 

[John From Detroit]

There are Sway Bars and Load equlizer bars (they also limit sway and are sometimes called Sway Bars)

The difference.. I used the first.. ti's a single bar with adjustable friction that mounts to a smaller ball next to the big ball hitch on a trailer.. Worked to control sway on my 2,000 pound trailers.

The fact you said "Bars" suggests load equlizers. These come in pairs. They mount UNDER the hitch and you put tension on the m to pull the hitch UP. thus transferng some of the trailer's tongue weight to the FRONT axle on the tow vehicle (Equalizing the load between front and rear.,

You want the two vehicles to look like this - - Not this \ / and that is what they do.,

 

[Jackiemac]

We have only used ours a couple of times in high winds....

 

[Lou Schneider]

Sway is usually caused by the trailer's center of gravity being too far back, i.e. not enough weight forward of the axles (tongue weight).

Equalizing bars are designed to bridge the joint at the hitch ball, applying leverage to the trailer tongue to raise the truck and trailer back to a level configuration. In the process it compresses the truck's front springs, increasing the front axle's weight on the road.

A sway bar is a friction element that reduces the ability of the trailer to move away from a straight line by restricting the ability of the hitch to pivot side to side. You have to be careful about how much sway resistance you dial in because the friction works both ways, both opposing the trailer moving off-center and returning to a straight line when the turn is finished. Most advise against use on slippery surfaces so the truck and trailer can't get locked in a perpetual turn if the truck's rear axle loses traction.

 

[Primerump]

if you are towing 6000+ with a 1500 then you will most certainly need a weight distribution hitch.
sway, as mentioned above is mostly due to insufficient load on the hitch. aim for at least 10 to 12% on the tongue.

 

[Ex-Calif]

Thanks for the tips so far. I googled sway bars and realize I am missing half the kit.

The only pieces I have are the sway bar a-frame brackets, the sway bars and mini cheek ball. All the truck reciever side stuff is missing.

I towed 140 miles yesterday and it was very steady. I am about to launch on 2400 mile road trip. I will evaluate en-route.

 

[John From Detroit]

Sounds like you have it all.. Thew mini ball goes on the Truck the A-Frame bracket should also have a ball on it.

Some times you do a different Truck mount Depending on if you are bumper mounted or receiver mounted On a bumper if there is a hole oh about an inch over from the main ball that's where the mini ball goes Use locktite on the nut.

If you use a receiver there is a bracket you can get that goes between teh ball and the receiver

Or an aircraft rated welder can weld one on for you.

 

[Ex-Calif]

Sounds like you have it all.. Thew mini ball goes on the Truck the A-Frame bracket should also have a ball on it.

Some times you do a different Truck mount Depending on if you are bumper mounted or receiver mounted On a bumper if there is a hole oh about an inch over from the main ball that's where the mini ball goes Use locktite on the nut.

If you use a receiver there is a bracket you can get that goes between teh ball and the receiver

Or an aircraft rated welder can weld one on for you.

This is the bit I don't have. The part that goes in the reliever and accepts the bars.

Thi is a $215 Harbor Freight setup and looks identical to the bits I have.

 

[John From Detroit]

Ah that is the equlizer type.. Yes you will need to visit a Hitch or RV store to obtain that.

I'm told they really do improve the ride but I've never needed them due to light weight (I could lift the tongue w/o the jack) trailers.

 

[Babe2201]

Towing that kind of weight you might want to consider a WDH like a Blue Ox system. They recommend that on half tons for anything over 5,000 lbs.

 

[Ex-Calif]

Towing that kind of weight you might want to consider a WDH like a Blue Ox system. They recommend that on half tons for anything over 5,000 lbs.

This trip is 2400 miles. I will really evaluate on the trip.

MGVWR for the trailer is 6661 and my truck is rated at 8600 so I have good headroom. Base weight ranges from 4800 to 5500 so cargo weight is tbd. I am not a packrat and don't carry heavy toys so we'll see where it lands.

When I finish provisioning I am hitting the Cat scale to see where I'm at loaded for the road. Full gas, 2 passengers, I am bringing a generator in the bed cuz we'll be boondocking some. Basic tools in the truck toolbox. These won't affect the trailer but add to truck payload and total rig weight.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

if you are towing 6000+ with a 1500 then you will most certainly need a weight distribution hitch.

I have to dispute that. Most any 1500/F150 will have enough cargo capacity (Payload) to readily handle a 6000 lb trailer (approximately 600-700 lbs of tongue weight) without use of weight distribution. Many trucks in that category will have 1500-2000 lbs of CCC, leaving plenty for trailer tongue weight. Even Colorado, Ranger, & Tacoma are often capable of that.

 

[Ex-Calif]

I have to dispute that. Most any 1500/F150 will have enough cargo capacity (Payload) to readily handle a 6000 lb trailer (approximately 600-700 lbs of tongue weight) without use of weight distribution. Many trucks in that category will have 1500-2000 lbs of CCC, leaving plenty for trailer tongue weight. Even Colorado, Ranger, & Tacoma are often capable of that.

Welcome back Gary. Discharge is great!

I agree with your input here.

 

[Babe2201]

I have to dispute that. Most any 1500/F150 will have enough cargo capacity (Payload) to readily handle a 6000 lb trailer (approximately 600-700 lbs of tongue weight) without use of weight distribution. Many trucks in that category will have 1500-2000 lbs of CCC, leaving plenty for trailer tongue weight. Even Colorado, Ranger, & Tacoma are often capable of that.

It does not matter what the truck will handle. It is still recommended to use a WDH when towing over 5K with a half-ton truck no matter what that truck's towing capacity or payload is.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

It does not matter what the truck will handle. It is still recommended to use a WDH when towing over 5K with a half-ton truck no matter what that truck's towing capacity or payload is.

Recommended by whom? Let me guess: a WD hitch manufacturer?

 

[Lou Schneider]

Recommended by whom? Let me guess: a WD hitch manufacturer?

How about someone who's actually towed a trailer with a WD hitch?

 

[Babe2201]

Recommended by whom? Let me guess: a WD hitch manufacturer?

I actually have a customer that tows campers from the factory in Indiana to dealerships in NE and even though he has a 1 ton that is well equipped to tow most campers told me he uses his WDH even if it is a camper that weighs under 5K so I am sure he would and he does not make or sell them.

With all due respect you seem to be pretty knowledgeable on a lot of things but you seem to be pretty stubborn on this one for no valid reason. With most RV's costing thousands and thousands of dollars and most tow vehicles costing what houses did a couple of decades ago it would seem logical to spend less than a thousand for a quality WDH to make it tow way easier and safer especially on a half-ton truck,

 

[gwinger]

Plus, the better WDH's have built in sway control. Lighter weight trailers are more prone to swaying, especially if being passed by or passing a large vehicle, or driving in windy conditions.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I actually have a customer that tows campers from the factory in Indiana to dealerships in NE and even though he has a 1 ton that is well equipped to tow most campers told me he uses his WDH even if it is a camper that weighs under 5K so I am sure he would and he does not make or sell them.

With all due respect you seem to be pretty knowledgeable on a lot of things but you seem to be pretty stubborn on this one for no valid reason. With most RV's costing thousands and thousands of dollars and most tow vehicles costing what houses did a couple of decades ago it would seem logical to spend less than a thousand for a quality WDH to make it tow way easier and safer especially on a half-ton truck,

Yeah, I guess I am pretty stubborn on some things. Broad generalizations presented with great certitude but no supporting facts is one of them.

 

[Ex-Calif]

As the OP I will say we just finished 1300 miles in 3 days from Florida to NE new york.

Rig weighs 12100# - Mbgwr is 15000#.

Rig was flawless hit many bad sections of freeway and had a few big jounces. No one indication of wag or fishtail. I reckon the truck with payload is probably 6000 and the trailer is also 6000.

As of this time I see no reason to add any stabilizing system. Would it be better? Absolutely. Is it necessary? I personally deem not.