Temporary RV Roof Sealing Before Applying Dicor

[Trooper#1]

Hi all,
My question is....I removed some calk from my trailer roof last fall, and now need to redo it, but the temperatures are not conducive to using self leveling calk....10c daytime but down to 0c at night. Can I use tape temporarily until the temperatures warm up and then self leveling over top?
Thanks.

 

[Kirk]

You could probably get by using duct tape temporarily. Eternabond does not come off easily.

 

[Derby6]

I’d use tape or flex seal for now. I would remove tape before applying the new self leveling caulk.
If you used flex seal, I would (and have) applied self leveling over the top when weather permitted.

 

[IBTripping]

I used Eternabond on the roof seams of a 1996 travel trailer. Never leaked. Finally gave it to a friend and it's still not leaking.

 

[Trooper#1]

Thanks guys....I'll go with the flexseal, but which particular Flexseal should I use? The liquid......the tape?? or does it not matter if I'm covering it after with Dicor self levelling?
Thanks

 

[Rene T]

I would wait till the weather improves then apply the Dickr and let it dry then apply the eternal one tape. It will outlast you

 

[TheBar]

Thanks guys....I'll go with the flexseal, but which particular Flexseal should I use? The liquid......the tape?? or does it not matter if I'm covering it after with Dicor self levelling?
Thanks

Flexseal is much thinner and lower quality than Eternabond. There isn't enough difference in price to justify using Flexseal except for a temporary emergency repair.

If you are one of those people who caulk their roof you are wasting your time and risking damage to your RV. Just because the factory uses caulk is no reason to continue using an inferior product.

12 years ago I covered up all the original roof caulk around all vents, roof openings, all 4 sides of the 30' roof, and even sealed the curved part of the overhead cab on my Class C with Eternabond. My roof seams are sealed 10 times better than any caulk for 20+ years.

I haven't needed to touch my roof in the 12 years since then. My liquid rubber roof is stained from dead leaves over the winter. But the Eternabond is still flexible and looks new and white after sitting outside for 12 years in the hot Mississippi sun. I don't expect to do any roof maintenance until the Eternabond and liquid rubber is over 20 years old.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

If you are one of those people who caulk their roof you are wasting your time and risking damage to your RV. Just because the factory uses caulk is no reason to continue using an inferior product.

I'm a fan of Eternabond & similar tapes and have had good success with them, but will take exception to caulk being an "inferior product". Like most things, there are pros & cons to each alternative. IMO, a quality lap sealant (caulk) performs better in some applications:

• Curved seams (easier fit around corners and no gaps or wrinkles)
• Seams subject to a lot of flexing or separation. Quality roof caulks have better stretch performance.
• Deep seams (fill the gap with sealant and then tape over it).

Use the right tool for the job at hand!

 

[TheBar]

I'm a fan of Eternabond & similar tapes and have had good success with them, but will take exception to caulk being an "inferior product". Like most things, there are pros & cons to each alternative. IMO, a quality lap sealant (caulk) performs better in some applications:

• Curved seams (easier fit around corners and no gaps or wrinkles)

I included a picture of Eternabond applied around the overhead bunk on my Class C. 2" wide Eternabond CAN be stretched without gaps or wrinkles. Note my curve has a 2"wide strip around the curve and another strip around that edge to cover up the screws that would eventually rust and fail. Mine has held up perfectly after a dozen years.

• Seams subject to a lot of flexing or separation. Quality roof caulks have better stretch performance.

I would definitely say caulk is way less stretchy than Eternabond. As I mentioned and others have as well, Eternabond remains flexible and stretches for 20+ years. Caulk hardens to a rock in a few years.

• Deep seams (fill the gap with sealant and then tape over it).

Use the right tool for the job at hand!

I agree. The old factory caulk should not be removed because tape should not be applied over air gaps.

 

[Kirk]

The liquid......the tape?? or does it not matter if I'm covering it after with Dicor self levelling?

If temporary, use something cheap and easily removed. I would recalk the joints sparingly, then cover with a quality tape after the caulking has cured for a permanent solution.

 

[Rene T]

If temporary, use something cheap and easily removed. I would recalk the joints sparingly, then cover with a quality tape after the caulking has cured for a permanent solution.

Don’t ever use silicone caulking.

 

[klook]

Don’t ever use silicone caulking.

But Winnebago does.....

 

[RayIN]

But Winnebago does.....

Which might be why Winnebago says to redo seams periodically. Silicon caulk is normally the cheapest on the shelf; there must be a reason why.

 

[Rene T]

Silicone caulk, so I’m told, will not stick to itself so if you try to recaulk something a year or so later, I believe you would have to remove all the old silicone before applying new silicone

 

[zulutron]

. . . the temperatures are not conducive to using self leveling calk....10c daytime but down to 0c at night. Can I use tape temporarily until the temperatures warm up and then self leveling over top?

If you plan on using EternaBond tape in these temps, the manufacturer recommends using EternaPrime if temps are below 40 degrees F (4 C).