Termites!

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Ricky & Lucy

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I made the mistake of putting my RV in storage in St. Augustine, FL and it got infested with dry wood termites! Because I'm from Virginia I had never even heard of termites getting into an RV. I was in Myrtle Beach, SC when I realized that the little buggers were eating up my travel trailer. In a panic I towed her to a local exterminator who charged me MANY THOUSANDS to tent my RV in his lot. I then towed her back to Virginia and realized she was still infested! The exterminator refused to answer my phone calls. SO... I closed up my RV and blasted her with bug bombs. Two different kinds and way more than recommended. Left her closed up tight for several weeks and then aired her out thoroughly for another couple of weeks. Termites gone!
So my advice is don't leave your RV in a storage facility anywhere that dry wood termites live. And don't panic like I did and fall prey to a con artist exterminator. Buy $50 with of bug bombs and do it yourself! (Of course I washed dishes, cookware, and everything else in the RV afterwards.)
 
Thanks for the info on using bug bombs to kill termites. Never would have considered that option.
 
Welcome to the forum.
Glad to hear that you won.
If you plan on staying here for a while, you’ll find that we’re a great group of people with lots of knowledge and experience. So if you have any questions, feel free to ask away now matter how small they may seem to you. No question is a dumb question. If you don’t know the answer, it’s not dumb to ask. All we ask is that if you have several questions, please start a separate post for each question.
Also it would be helpful if you go into your profile and create a signature of yourself telling us a little bit about you especially what you have for a rv.
 
I use Taurus SC around my home as a termiticide. Also use it on the back lanai to treat individual ant mounds.

Taurus contains Fipronil which they walk through, then clean themselves and ingest some, and then when feeding the queen poison her. Withing two weeks, the colony dies off, even when hidden in the walls. Plus, the Fipronil remains active for about 8-10 years. Read the instructions well and do not use it as a general spray for insects. It is for specific uses using specific methods and will kill all colony insects including bees, so don't leave it/apply it where bees might encounter it.

The "professional" that tented the RV had the same problem that most bug bombs will have - namely, the termites (and ants) are well ensconced in the walls and woodwork and will not be killed. I'm hoping OP had great success - but thought to post this advice that can also be used to protect you home, woorkshop, garden sheds, etc. against termites and ants.

BUT - READ THE DIRECTIONS! YOU DON'T NEED MUCH WHEN TREATING A SMALL AREA - SUCH AS INJECTING INTO INFESTED WOOD...
 
Many years ago, like 40+ when I was on Active Duty, my small studio apartment got infested with fleas - not sure how - but I got 2 or 3 of those bug bombs, lit them off in the kitchen and living room/bedroom, then went to the mall for a few hours. When I returned I opened the doors and windows to air everything out, then cleaned all the dishes. I bet I swept up 5 dustpans filled with dead fleas. But the problem went away.
 
I use Taurus SC around my home as a termiticide. Also use it on the back lanai to treat individual ant mounds.

Taurus contains Fipronil which they walk through, then clean themselves and ingest some, and then when feeding the queen poison her. Withing two weeks, the colony dies off, even when hidden in the walls. Plus, the Fipronil remains active for about 8-10 years. Read the instructions well and do not use it as a general spray for insects. It is for specific uses using specific methods and will kill all colony insects including bees, so don't leave it/apply it where bees might encounter it.

The "professional" that tented the RV had the same problem that most bug bombs will have - namely, the termites (and ants) are well ensconced in the walls and woodwork and will not be killed. I'm hoping OP had great success - but thought to post this advice that can also be used to protect you home, woorkshop, garden sheds, etc. against termites and ants.

BUT - READ THE DIRECTIONS! YOU DON'T NEED MUCH WHEN TREATING A SMALL AREA - SUCH AS INJECTING INTO INFESTED WOOD...
Fipronil is the termitocide Terminix uses, but the best ever was Chlordane, only problem was it killed everything else. You can crawl under pier and beam on ground that was treated with Chlordane 50 years ago and still smell it. I've trenched and treated with Fipronil on two houses to kill subterrainean termites but for dry wood termites you've got to locate where they're active, since they nest in the structure. Sub. termites travel from their nest into the structure and back picking up the Fipronil along the way.
 
Fipronil is the termitocide Terminix uses, but the best ever was Chlordane, only problem was it killed everything else. You can crawl under pier and beam on ground that was treated with Chlordane 50 years ago and still smell it. I've trenched and treated with Fipronil on two houses to kill subterrainean termites but for dry wood termites you've got to locate where they're active, since they nest in the structure. Sub. termites travel from their nest into the structure and back picking up the Fipronil along the way.

I used Chlordane in the garage at the house we bought. It was infested badly.
I ended up sistering all the studs. The garage has never had another problem since.
Chordane was a forever product.
 
Having lived here in Florida for a while now you will learn that termites are also "migration al." Meaning in the summer they move up and in the Winter they move down. "Into the ground" The best way to control them is to spray around the baseline of your home, so they must cross the line. Sadly, you cannot stop them. The badest of the bad are "dry wood termites" You can bring a new door frame into your home and "BINGO" New neighbors. Truly you have to inspect the wood and look for little pin holes. Press on the wood and you may find it soft. meaning they have eaten away a lot of wood under the pinhole. They are ridiculously hard to kill. drywood-termites-prevention-and-control-3.jpgtermites.jpg
 
Having lived here in Florida for a while now you will learn that termites are also "migration al." Meaning in the summer they move up and in the Winter they move down. "Into the ground" The best way to control them is to spray around the baseline of your home, so they must cross the line. Sadly, you cannot stop them. The badest of the bad are "dry wood termites" You can bring a new door frame into your home and "BINGO" New neighbors. Truly you have to inspect the wood and look for little pin holes. Press on the wood and you may find it soft. meaning they have eaten away a lot of wood under the pinhole. They are ridiculously hard to kill. View attachment 173968View attachment 173969
Subterrainean termites ( Eastern Subterrainean in Florida) travel from their nest into the structure and back continuously regardless the season. What they do seasonally however ( spring to early summer)is swarm to establish new colonies. Dry wood termites nest in the structure and don't leave as long as there's a food source.
Spraying around the perimeter of a structure won't stop termites, they ( E. Sub.) travel underground 6-12" under the surface. The most effective method for stopping sub. termites on slab built homes is trench and treat, ie., dig a ~12" deep trench along the slab and pour in Fipronil ( while wearing a spacesuit), then treat the backfill as the trench is filled. Concrete driveways, sidewalks, patios, etc need to have holes drilled every 12" or so and Fipronil pumped into the ground underneath. Pier and beam requires treating around every pier as well as the perimeter.
Those termite bait stations which are sold with the the maintenance contracts are worthless.
 
I have an ozone generator. they say ozone will kill every living thing on this earth so it might be and option if all else fails.
 

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