The EVs with the best range.

There are almost 200k gas stations in the US.
How can you compare that when more than 75% of EV charging is done at home? And another 20% for those who charge at work. 5% charge on the road.

So for road trips, we need 5% of EV chargers compared to gas stations even if everybody was driving an EV. Locations are more important than the numbers of EV charge stations. Unlike gas stations, EV charge stations near home are usually useless.

Not many have a gas station in their garages. And most people drive less than 30 miles per day.

We will never have the need for as many charge stations as gas stations, not even if we were 100% EV.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
How can you compare that when more than 75% of EV charging is done at home? And another 20% for those who charge at work. 5% charge on the road.
If everyone had an ev those numbers would be far lower.

The majority of people who have bought evs to date have a lot of money and can afford to install chargers at home. Going forward people who buy them wont always be able to do that.

If people had to charge from a 15a 110 circuit what % do you think will charge at home?

A lot of that charging is because they have no choice.

Just because you have tbe money and interest to jump through hoops to make an ev work doesnt mean everyone will.
 
@DonTom how much did it cost to have those fast chargers installed? A quick search shows the tesla powerwall costs just under $10k and then another $5k to $10k to install.

How are people supposed to afford $110k for a cybertruck, then triple the insurance, then another $20k to charge them at home?

EVs are clearly for those that have money. There are a lot of those people in the US and prices are slowly getting in line with ice ownership, but they arent quite there yet so dont expect everyone to rush out and jump on the bandwagon.

I do think we need to move to evs but it is still premature to force everyone to do so
 
@DonTom the house i am in right now doesnt even have an exterior outlet and there is no garage so we park our cars in front of the house near the street.

I just looked up how much a fast charging cable costs. Home depot has a 25ft listed for around $500. I would have to install a charging outlet and i would probably need a 50ft cable to reach it even if i installed the outlet at the absolute closest place on the house to where we park the cars.

Think about the tens of thousands of older cities and towns across the US where people have to park on the street and fight over parking spots in the winter. How are all those people supposed to charge at home?
 
I can buy an 80 zillion g tablet that will do anything that matters for $100.00. 25 years ago it would have cost the national debt. The cost of an EV and home charging set up, like Moore's Law did for tech, will sort out.
 
A quick search shows the tesla powerwall costs just under $10k and then another $5k to $10k to install.
The Tesla Powerwall has nothing to do with EV Charging. It is normally part of a home solar system. I have a Tesla Powerwall on this house. Even without solar, it can be helpful here in Auburn, such as charge from the grid (when no solar) when the electric price is a lower rate and then set it to use when the electric rate is at the peak price. Or charge it from solar as I do on sunny days. I can control what charges it with my Tesla App. A Tesla Powerwall is just a battery to run a house with. It will also keep the house running when the power goes out. If the power was out right now here in Auburn, I would not even know unless I look at my app. There is not even the slightest flicker if the power goes out. I can also use the app to turn off the grid to this house and run on 100% battery.

All that is needed is a 240 VAC outlet for reasonable home charging. Like @Viajeros does with the cable that comes with the EV. Charge at 32 amps (7,680 watts) overnight. Full charge by morning.

I do have the Tesla Wall Connector at both my houses and I can charge my EVs at 12KW. That is helpful for a faster day charge, but makes no different if one charges mainly at night.

Even a 120 VAC outlet would work for many as long as it is charged every day and night when home.

. I would have to install a charging outlet and i would probably need a 50ft cable to reach

Fifty-foot 240 VAC extension cords are not a big problem.

But yes, there are a few who have no reasonable way to home charge and I have mentioned that before, such as here.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
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Think about the tens of thousands of older cities and towns across the US where people have to park on the street and fight over parking spots in the winter. How are all those people supposed to charge at home?
BTW, here in CA, all new houses must be "EV Ready" to meet the building codes. I think it only means there must be a 240 VAC outlet in the garage.

The same with new apartments, they must have charge stations. They have been doing this for years here in CA. I have noticed the same in NV, but I don't know if it is law there, just that the newer apartments have an EV area with charge stations. Some are for residents only--others are open to everybody. Mainly depending on how many charge stations they have compared to EVs.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
How are people supposed to afford $110k for a cybertruck,
Then buy one of those cheap used EVs from Hertz or whatever. Don't need to blow 110K$ to have an EV these days. They will soon cost less than the average ICE vehicle, as I predicted years ago.

If you care about resale values, do not buy an EV. They will continue to drop in price.

I don't care at all about resale values, but many do. An even worse investment is to buy a new motorhome as I also did.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
BTW, here in CA, all new houses must be "EV Ready" to meet the building codes. I think it only means there must be a 240 VAC outlet in the garage.

The same with new apartments, they must have charge stations. They have been doing this for years here in CA. I have noticed the same in NV, but I don't know if it is law there, just that the newer apartments have an EV area with charge stations. Some are for residents only--others are open to everybody. Mainly depending on how many charge stations they have compared to EVs.

-Don- Auburn, CA
They still havent been able to get rid of lead in houses after decades of trying. It will be a very, very long time before evs are a good solution for everyone. There are literally millions of people who couldnt make them work no matter how hard they try. Giving canned responses to real challenges doesnt help
 
This is a long message, but I have no doubt it will be worth your time to read perhaps even a few times.

By default, in the Audi you have no deceleration regen.

But you do have it if you want it. Even if you want one pedal driving, you have it. See here.

"Audi e-tron
On the Audi e-tron you can set recuperation to manual (MMI -> Vehicle -> Efficiency Assistant -> Recuperation). Then every time you start a drive, set recuperation to the max with the steering wheel recuperation paddles, and then it will regenerate every time you lift your foot off the “throttle pedal” and works as “one-pedal-driving.”


BTW, your deceleration regen (any setting--including none) will slow your car down if you get too close to the car in front.

Now, I will explain a bit about regen. It will only help increase range when one of these three things are happening:

1. You MUST stop.
2. You MUST slow down.
3. Going downhill very slowly, even if at a steady speed (if you're going slow enough).

Perhaps a better way to word the first two is "less loss than not having deceleration regen." You lose most of gain after you accelerate again. But that is a lot better than an ICE car that loses efficiency on both ends. EVs gain a little when slowing down, but it is mostly lost again when speeding back up to the same speed you had.

Other advantages (a big one, IMO) is to NOT need to brake much when going down a steep, very curvy road. Many hills around here. EVs are safer in the hills because they will not speed up on their own when letting go of the pedal. That is if you have your regen on.

BTW, by law, there is a place where all truckers must stop to check their brakes WB on I-80 just before a very steep downhill section starts for several miles. There is a sign that say so and you can also read it here. If the day ever comes when all trucks are EVs, they will be able to remove that sign as well as the requirement.

If you set your EV for the very max regen, you can still have ZERO regen. This is done my never releasing to accelerator pedal and putting it at the exact spot where you get no regen gain and no power loss. For an example, my Tesla regen line changes color for power loss and power gain. But between the two where there is no color because there is no line. There is nothing to show when there is no gain and no loss. That is how you then coast even with a max regen setting. The only real disadvantage of too much deceleration regen is that you cannot let go of the pedal and coast. You can still coast the same but with the pedal halfway down or wherever. IOW, it is touchier, and you need to get used to it. And you should, IMO.

FWIW, I never heard of an EV car or motorcycle where you could not have deceleration regen. However, defaults are different between EVs. IMO, Audi was smart to do it that way, as by default as it gives ICE drivers what they expect during a test drive. But you CAN change yours, but you will have to get used to NOT letting go of the pedal when you want to coast. Your coasting will be the spot where no power is loss or gained.

BTW, I like the Chevy Bolt method of regen the best of all. Very low deceleration regen, but all you want by a level on the left side of the steering wheel. Adjust as you want to slow down or stop. Also has PROGRESSIVE regen with the brake pedal. Press the brake lightly and get 5 KW of regen. Press hard on the brake and get perhaps 85 KW of regen. I doubt if I would notice any difference if they removed the brake pads in that car.

Tesla's default is the opposite of yours. Max deceleration regen by default. But there is a setting to lower it, so it will feel much more like an ICE car.

So the choice is yours. If I owned your car, I would keep it at max regen except for when I have passengers. High regen usually doesn't have any effect on who is driving, but it can make passengers feel sick because of what happens when you do let go of the pedal. Such as in city driving. See here for Tesla Motion sickness. More common with Teslas because of their very high regen by default. But Tesla's way is to put everything at max by default, lower it if you want. Both with the power and the regen.

My Chevy Bolt has a button I need to press for more power. Even less power can feel smoother.

-Don- Auburn, CA
I prefer it the way it is...I get max regen whenever I want it by pressing the pedal a little harder...and if I need more I press a little harder and get friction brakes. Completely seamless... the only reason you know is by looking at the gauge.... well technically I can tell if I'm paying attention.
The car does a thing within the first few miles of the day it will use friction brakes only with no regen for one stop. Purpose is to "clean" the brakes or wear them in.... I find that the friction brakes have just a little less stopping power compared with regen only, almost like the brakes have faded a smidge.

I didn't know that Teslas had a zone between where it would coast, but I suppose it makes sense. I suppose the few times I've driven them I just either never noticed, or it was set so high that the coast zone was too small to notice. No doubt it's like most things....use it long enough and get used to it and it'll be smooth.....
 
I didn't know that Teslas had a zone between where it would coast, but I suppose it makes sense.
Any EV. I was only using Tesla for an example. In my Chevy Bolt I would coast down a hill by pressing just enough on the pedal, so it shows 0KW on my display. IOW, not power gained, none lost. That is the same as coasting.

.I get max regen whenever I want it by pressing the pedal a little harder.
Same with my Chevy Bolt. I wonder if you also have that extra regen level. It cannot activate the brakes; it can only activate the regen. But it has some regen without even touching it. But very low. I only know because I see the KWs added when going slow down a hill. My Reno house is on the very top of a hill and a speed limit of 25 MPH. So I get a lot of regen going down the hill, but if I don't use the regen level it will speed down the hill. Very much like coasting. I normally only use the regen level to slow or stop, I touch the brake to add even more regen if I want to stop fast. I think the brake pads only come into play if I slam on the brakes very hard.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
the house i am in right now doesnt even have an exterior outlet and there is no garage so we park our cars in front of the house near the street.
No problem. Do what my buddy did who lives off grid in the mountains above Jemez Springs, NM (probably not far from you). Is entire setup to charge his Tesla is all outside, not all that close to his house.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
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They still havent been able to get rid of lead in houses after decades of trying. It will be a very, very long time before evs are a good solution for everyone. There are literally millions of people who couldnt make them work no matter how hard they try. Giving canned responses to real challenges doesnt help
I just noticed a mistake I made in message number 46, I just now edited it to clear up my mistake and to make it clearer, so you may wanna read it again.

The big mistake was where I used the words "Tesla Power Wall" for my "Tesla Wall connectors". They are not the same.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
My son is still driving a 2006 corolla that i bought new. It has over 275,000 mi on it. Never had tranny probs and everything on it still works. That was the most reliable and least expensive car i ever owned.
I never owned one, but I always thought Toyotas were great cars. If I were to buy an ICE car, I would probably check them out first. AFAIK, they still make several non-interference engines. I will not consider an interference engine if it has a timing belt.

Here is the list I would go by:

Toyota Non Interference Engine List

  • 1.5L (3E-E & 5E-FE) Non-Interference
  • 1.6L DOHC (4A-F & 4A-FE) Non-Interference
  • 1.6L DOHC (4A-GE & 4A-GZE) Non-Interference
  • 1.6L SOHC Non-Interference
  • 1.8L 7AFE, 4AFE, 4AF – Non-Interference
  • 2.0L Non-Interference
  • 2.2L Gasoline Non-Interference
  • 2.5L Non-Interference
  • 2.8L Non-Interference
  • 3.0L Inline 6 (Except 1998 2JZ-GE) Non-Interference
  • 3.0L V6 Non-Interference
  • 3.4L Non-Interference
  • 3.5L V-6 Non-Interference
-Don- Auburn, CA
 
BTW, here in CA, all new houses must be "EV Ready" to meet the building codes. I think it only means there must be a 240 VAC outlet in the garage.

The same with new apartments, they must have charge stations.

-Don- Auburn, CA
Hopefully the BS Red Tape that will be eliminated for LA area rebuilds. Absolutely stupid unethecical red tape regulation. For what? Nothing but control and meeting minority thoughts/desires.
 

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