Tire Change Procedure

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With an RV trailer, smart owners inflate the tire to the max load pressure shown on the tire sidewall unless they have clear evidence that something less is adequate, e.g. an actual scaled axle weight. The reason is that most all RVs come with tires that are just barely capable of carrying the rated axle loads, so they are running at their max capacity at all times.

Trailers built since 2008 will have a sticker somewhere showing the RV manufacturers recommended tire size & psi, but they often get obliterated after some years. Look along the outside left front of the frame or body.
 
As far jacking I have a 6 ton bottle jack and it’s always worked just fine. Fully compressed, it is 8 1/2” tall. With the extension screw backed out all the way, it is 11 1/2” tall.
It has 5 1/2” of travel. Fully extended with the extension screw out all the way, it measures 17”.
If you have a compressor, you could let all the air out of one tire and see what you have for clearance between the ground and the jacking point. Then just inflate the tire.
I would also figure using a 3/4 thick board in case your in soft sand.
 
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When placing a jack under an axle on a tandem trailer remember that if you lift both tires off the ground that single point of contact will now have twice the rated weight of the axle. Placing it under the round tube of an axle may not be the strongest point, that axle is only rated for half the load the jack will exert. You don't want half the weight of your trailer all coming down on an area the size of a quarter where your bottle jack meets your axle. Placing it under the shackle where the spring and axle attach, as mentioned earlier, is likely a better location. If you can get the flat tire off the ground without raising the other tire you will be carrying only half as much weight and far less likely to bend the axle.
 
+1 on having a correct lug wrench. I always carry a large breaker bar with the correct size socket and extension. 4 ways do not always fit trailer wheel lug nuts. Also check the nuts holding your spare tire on the camper. I found out the hard way that the engineers used a different size nut than the lug nuts. Fortunately my truck lug wrench fit.
 
I have a set of leveler blocks. Mine are Lynx Levelers.
To change a tire, first loosen the lug nuts a little while the tire is on the ground. Next, build a ramp of levelers for the good tire. Pull the trailer up the ramp and the flat one will be suspended. Change the tire. No jack needed.
One of the best ideas for raising the motorhome up easily for a quick need.
 
I agree. A breaker bar and correct socket is the way to go.
A 120 VAC impact wrench is a much better way to go. Use your generator or inverter to run it. For smaller jobs, such as cars and smaller trailers, a 12V impact wrench will usually work.

Even with a bigger job, the 12V impact wrench will still be handy after the wheel nuts are loosened, if it cannot get them off when on tight.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
When we did the brake job on my trailer, we discovered some interesting things trying to remove the wheels.
Due to the sculpted design of the wheels, the impact wrench the tech brought could not get in close enough. Adding a 3” extension fixed that but, that 3”s permitted enough twist that the impact was lessened to the extent that the lug nuts didn’t budge. Yikes.
My HF impact wrench had a narrower nose and fit without the extension. Off came the wheels.
My4 way lug wrench had socket walls too thick to fit so I carry the right socket and breaker bar (I also added a big socket to fit the axel castle nut just in case).
 
build a ramp with the lego leveling blocks and drive the good tire up the ramp until the bad is off the ground, loosen lugs before driving up, snug down the spare tire, tighten lugs after driving down. Recheck in 15 -20 miles. Check the spare tire pressure before you leave, often forgotten until you need it.
 
Buy an impact driver from Amazon and carry that for the lug nuts. I carry a DeWalt which works great, but there are tons of others. Also a set of sockets for the driver. You'll be glad you have this if you need to change one.
 
A 120 VAC impact wrench is a much better way to go. Use your generator or inverter to run it. For smaller jobs, such as cars and smaller trailers, a 12V impact wrench will usually work.

Even with a bigger job, the 12V impact wrench will still be handy after the wheel nuts are loosened, if it cannot get them off when on tight.

-Don- Reno, NV

That's one tool that I don't have. Christmas is coming though!
 
The 12v one I have will loosen up the lug nuts if you give it a few seconds. Never had to loosen them up with another wrench first.
 
The 12v one I have will loosen up the lug nuts if you give it a few seconds. Never had to loosen them up with another wrench first.
Seen them used and they work well. I hit the age where I push the phone button for CoachNet and tell them I have a flat. Soon a guy shows up with the 12V impact and changes the tire, I don't get dirty. ;-)
 

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