Tires, TPMS, blowouts, etc.

[Mountain high]

Yes, I know how to read the tire codes.

What I was asking is how old should I expect a new tire to be and if a date code 1.5 years old is within reason for buying a new tire.

-Don- Borrego Springs, CA

Yes.

"brand-new tires may not always be accessible. In this case, as long as they are at most 18 months, purchasing a set of tires older than one year is a good idea."

How Old Should New Tires Be When You Buy Them? Understanding the Age Factor When Buying

Get the expert advice you need to ensure you get the most out of your new tires

www.autopadre.com

 

[DonTom]

Yes.

"brand-new tires may not always be accessible. In this case, as long as they are at most 18 months, purchasing a set of tires older than one year is a good idea."

How Old Should New Tires Be When You Buy Them? Understanding the Age Factor When Buying

Get the expert advice you need to ensure you get the most out of your new tires

www.autopadre.com

Thanks, that was a very informative link.

But one thing I wondered about is if the ageing is a little slower when the tire is not yet used. IOW, when it is still new in the shop, where there are no weather extremes, no sun shining as well as no weight on them. I have a hard time buying there is no difference between such perfect conditions and being mounted and used.

-Don- Borrego Springs, CA

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

What I was asking is how old should I expect a new tire to be and if a date code 1.5 years old is within reason for buying a new tire.

There is no cut & dried answer to that; it depends on the brand, type, & size of the tire. Obviously the preferred age is less than 6 months, but tires are made in big batches and a size or type that is not widely used might only get a new batch every 12-20 months. If you buy near the end of the batch cycle for that size & model, you might have to accept a much older date. Or buy a different make/model of tire.

It's not unusual for a motorhome to use a size that is not common on commercial trucks, and some owners have a brand preference or desire a tire with a softer ride than a high-mileage truck tire. That may lead them to a tire than is not sold in high volumes.

Some RVers look at tire age with religious fervor, but I think some latitude is appropriate. I agree with you that a tire that has been stored in a climate-controlled warehouse is somewhat less aged than one that has been sitting in the sun or cruising a highway. Just how much difference that makes is a judgment call.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Sorry Don, i clearly didn't read your question properly.
If you're not already doing so, use tyre dressing to help prolong the tyre's life, it will slow the UV degradation issue, not just the "prettiness". You can have shiny (yuck) or matte finish stuff.

 

[Ray-IN]

Sorry Don, i clearly didn't read your question properly.
If you're not already doing so, use tyre dressing to help prolong the tyre's life, it will slow the UV degradation issue, not just the "prettiness". You can have shiny (yuck) or matte finish stuff.

That is not how Michelin recommends. Virtually every tire storage website lists #1 as washing and drying the tire and do not use a dressing chemical.
This is Michelins long-term storage information: Tire Storage - Learn How to Store Tires Properly | Michelin

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

That is not how Michelin recommends. Virtually every tire storage website lists #1 as washing and drying the tire and do not use a dressing chemical.
This is Michelins long-term storage information: Tire Storage - Learn How to Store Tires Properly | Michelin

I would love to say, Michelin don't know what they're talking about, but...

I think what they're referring to is the old school actual chemical stuff - you should only ever use water-based dressings, i don't want anything interfering with the rubber.

I personally use 303 Protectant, gives a good matte finish and works well, i have also used CarPro PERL but normally just leave that for other plastics, the 303 goes on my tyres and tonneau cover.

 

[BrunoMTP]

Note that the maximum tire pressure reading is 87 PSI. That rules out usage on many RV's, particularly larger motorhomes.

In reading through the details and reviews, this TPMS appears to be yet another unit that doesn't provide any tire info until the vehicle has been underway for a few minutes. That prevents pre-trip checking of the conditions. There are TPMS that read while standing still, such as the TST 507 units. Pricey, but many of us have been quite happy with their performance.

The actual max PSI reading on this unit it 99 PSI as documented in the user reviews. I've had it installed and have been using it for a little over a year with no issues - rear tires set to 75-80PSI and fronts around 55-60PSI on a Tioga Class C. Thusfar am happy with it's price / performance. Haven't had to change the batteries or fool around with it since installation as it's only active when the rig is in motion.

 

[DonTom]

and fronts around 55-60PSI on a Tioga Class C.

Why so low in the fronts? I use the same PSI in all six wheels on this Y2K Tioga 24D. I have been using 77 psi cold in all six.

-Don- Borrego Springs, CA

 

[BrunoMTP]

Why so low in the fronts? I use the same PSI in all six wheels on this Y2K Tioga 24D. I have been using 77 psi cold in all six.

-Don- Borrego Springs, CA

When I weighed the 26Q at the CAT scales under a full load of equipment and all tanks full (fresh, grey, and black water) to test the worse case load scenario, the rear tires / axle was about at max capacity. The front axle and tire load was over 1000# below the max capacity. Referencing the load chart for my tires (same size as yours but Toyos instead of Hankooks), it called for 55 PSI for the tires for that amount of load.

You should be able to find some documentation for your Y2K listing the recommended PSI for front and back tires - try the driver's side door panel - it should list the recommended PSI's from the manufacturer. It's often lower for the front tires on these Class C's and your rig will handle better with the proper tire PSI set.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Tire shine ruins tires. My motorhome had relatively new Firestone Trans Force tires when i bought it, but the outside sidewalls had been slicked with tire shine. The tires were beginning to get fine cracks in the rubber then. I eventually installed a new set of Michelins, and it rode ten times better. I had two different shops tell me they hated tire shine, it was messy, it will not come off, ever, and it sucks the oils out of rubber and the tires crack and split. Only the areas with shine had the cracking, I installed one of the inboard rear tires in the spare position when I did the Michelins.

Charles

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Tire shine ruins tires. My motorhome had relatively new Firestone Trans Force tires when i bought it, but the outside sidewalls had been slicked with tire shine. The tires were beginning to get fine cracks in the rubber then. I eventually installed a new set of Michelins, and it rode ten times better. I had two different shops tell me they hated tire shine, it was messy, it will not come off, ever, and it sucks the oils out of rubber and the tires crack and split. Only the areas with shine had the cracking, I installed one of the inboard rear tires in the spare position when I did the Michelins.

Charles
View attachment 161693

Needs context.

Tyre shine, a generic term, cannot be said to ruin tyres.
I think i know the sticky, nasty-ass chemical crap that you had on your tyres (were they actually nearly new? date code?) some places use that stuff all the time, especially to cover up problems, it's a chemical, it's bad news for tyres, you can still find it it you try hard enough, but it's bad for rubber, don't ever use it.

Nothing made for tyres in the last 30 years actually kills tyres, and again, it should be water based, it's job is only 2-fold, to made the rubber appear more appealing and to protect the tyre from the UV rays of the sun.

 

[viceprice]

That's a $600 bill (with sensors) and I don't know if I like it or not. Given the number of RV'ers that endorse it I'm sure it's "good", but for me I'm not sure $600 worth of good (mine was spendy in it's day too and I would never recommend it). "What price safety" is then the consideration, a poor system may be no better than none. Once I immerse myself in the nuances of different units I can come up with a feature matrix and pull the trigger on something, but it's annoying to have to do the deep dive on this stuff just to discover the warts.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

I have not found any warts with the TST system. I took the advice of folks here before making a decision and have been happy with it.

 

[Larry N.]

Why so low in the fronts? I use the same PSI in all six wheels on this Y2K Tioga 24D. I have been using 77 psi cold in all six.

Don, if you do as many have recommended here and use pressures from the manufacturers tables for the weight they carry, you may well find improved handling. On the two coaches where front pressures were too high when I got them (the coaches), each improved in handling when I adjusted the pressures according to the tables.

 

[NY_Dutch]

The actual max PSI reading on this unit it 99 PSI as documented in the user reviews. I've had it installed and have been using it for a little over a year with no issues - rear tires set to 75-80PSI and fronts around 55-60PSI on a Tioga Class C. Thusfar am happy with it's price / performance. Haven't had to change the batteries or fool around with it since installation as it's only active when the rig is in motion.

That's better than the advertised max pressure then. The lack of readings until in motion would be a deal killer for me though. I want to know the status before getting on the road.

 

[DonTom]

Don, if you do as many have recommended here and use pressures from the manufacturers tables for the weight they carry, you may well find improved handling. On the two coaches where front pressures were too high when I got them (the coaches), each improved in handling when I adjusted the pressures according to the tables.

I don't think this thing can handle and feel any better any better than it does now. It is smoother with the new tires.

Nevertheless, I do want to get this thing weighted and then look at the tire charts and adjust the tire psi as recommended.

-Don- Borrego Springs, CA

 

[BrunoMTP]

That's better than the advertised max pressure then. The lack of readings until in motion would be a deal killer for me though. I want to know the status before getting on the road.

FYI - Lightning Deal active on this item (Tymate, 6 sensor) on Amazon right now - $112

 

[Ray-IN]

Needs context.

Tyre shine, a generic term, cannot be said to ruin tyres.
I think i know the sticky, nasty-ass chemical crap that you had on your tyres (were they actually nearly new? date code?) some places use that stuff all the time, especially to cover up problems, it's a chemical, it's bad news for tyres, you can still find it it you try hard enough, but it's bad for rubber, don't ever use it.

Nothing made for tyres in the last 30 years actually kills tyres, and again, it should be water based, it's job is only 2-fold, to made the rubber appear more appealing and to protect the tyre from the UV rays of the sun.

Talk about tire shine; when I was in high school(1950's) I worked at a filling station as the car wash guy. The station owner mixed 1C black paint into ½G gasoline and had me paint the tires after washing and drying a car.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Yeah, that'll eat the rubber alright

 

[Knobs]

Talk about tire shine; when I was in high school(1950's) I worked at a filling station as the car wash guy. The station owner mixed 1C black paint into ½G gasoline and had me paint the tires after washing and drying a car.

Did he also sell tires?

 

[Ray-IN]

Yes, sold tires every day. I was just a 35 cents an hour car washer, what did I know?