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Tom
Administrator
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- Jan 13, 2005
- Posts
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Straight from the horse's mouth Karl, thanks.
To accumulate or not?
- Thread starter Tom
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
justpassingthru
New member
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2007
- Posts
- 3
hi guys
heres my 2 cents worth. the value of an accumulator tank is to allow the pump to slowly ease into operation. without the tank the pump would immediately be called into service at a faster rate.this is a significant reason for the loud hammering noise one hears when flushing the head in the middle of the night. This is only a partial fix for a noisy pump problem. the rest is directly related to the configuration and materials used in the coach fresh water system. every time the pump is activated(on) it is pumping against all of the hard 90 degree turns to distribute water thru the system. each point of resistance will produce a low level of hammering noise. count up your corners (and there will be alot) and you will see that there is alot of points in the system that combined will make for a noisy pumping of system water. there is also noise produced at the pump itself. the remedy is to dampen the hammering into the system and also rid noise and vibration into the coach at the location of the pump itself (big noise here) that is, the way the pump is mounted and how it is connected to the system here is critical in overall noise reduction.
the fixes are as follows:
for the pump problem - install the pump on a 3/4" piece of plywood, paying attention to the way it is mounted above and below the wood. mount the legs with screws tightened only enough to secure it while allowing the rubber insulator in the pump mounts to do its job. i added a small round piece of rubber From an inner tube(a few layers here) between the leg ad the plywood .i also put a few pieces of heavier rubber material from the hardware store (osh or ace) and made sure it was soft enough to dampen the plywood against the floor where it is mounted. the plywood was sized an inch over the pump footprint and screwed down at the corners. that will isolate the pump vibration alot or completely, thru to the coach structure.
next, purchase some braided water supply lines from home depot . they must be at least 24-30 inches to work best. also pick up some hex shouldered close brass nipples (also home depot in the watts section of fittings). install the nipples at the pump, also on the water system lines from the rank to the pump, and at the line to the system(after pump). if you are using an accumulator tank, install them here too and at each side of tank at water system connection. use teflon tape on all threaded connections. one can feel the tightness of the connections best with a small crescent wrench when assembling. this way you can tell if your about to strip the threads. snug is good too tight is bad. also, loop the Water lines 2 or 4 times and wrap them snugly with nylon ties before installation. this is how to best dampen the pump from the system and the structure.
a word about the accumulator tank here. install at least 22" from the pump assembly and before the first fixture. i would recommend a thru connection for least resistance and best water flow.
about water flow. i used 1/2" id (5/8 od) pex water piping thru out my system. here is the best benefit to this type of material. they use plastic type push to Connect fittings made in all conceivable types of fittings. one just cuts the pipe to the desired length and plug the end inti the fitting. its that simple. the system uses plastic radius supports at all bends/ turns so u eliiminate the need for elbows. (big big noise reduction here) on the road repairs are quick ( minutes) and simple(no tools).
i also installed a 3 way valve at the water service door and now i don't hear the pump at all and i only have one knob to turn for all of my fresh water needs. mo motor pump noise from the night trips to the head! the pipe is rated at 170 degrees at 125 psi, well above rv pressures. secure piping at all locations and thru bulkheads as best as you can i used rubber pipe insulation on all hot water pipes and at bulkheads.
p.s. the fittings are in the rv catalogues and are made by seatech, 3 way valve is from flair it, the pex pipe was cheapest thru ace hardware. 50.00 for 100 ft. don't bother with colors, you wont see them after installation is completed. i did a little section of the system each week end and it went together quickly. good luck - mike
sorry for the numerous typos this window doesn't allow fixes!
heres my 2 cents worth. the value of an accumulator tank is to allow the pump to slowly ease into operation. without the tank the pump would immediately be called into service at a faster rate.this is a significant reason for the loud hammering noise one hears when flushing the head in the middle of the night. This is only a partial fix for a noisy pump problem. the rest is directly related to the configuration and materials used in the coach fresh water system. every time the pump is activated(on) it is pumping against all of the hard 90 degree turns to distribute water thru the system. each point of resistance will produce a low level of hammering noise. count up your corners (and there will be alot) and you will see that there is alot of points in the system that combined will make for a noisy pumping of system water. there is also noise produced at the pump itself. the remedy is to dampen the hammering into the system and also rid noise and vibration into the coach at the location of the pump itself (big noise here) that is, the way the pump is mounted and how it is connected to the system here is critical in overall noise reduction.
the fixes are as follows:
for the pump problem - install the pump on a 3/4" piece of plywood, paying attention to the way it is mounted above and below the wood. mount the legs with screws tightened only enough to secure it while allowing the rubber insulator in the pump mounts to do its job. i added a small round piece of rubber From an inner tube(a few layers here) between the leg ad the plywood .i also put a few pieces of heavier rubber material from the hardware store (osh or ace) and made sure it was soft enough to dampen the plywood against the floor where it is mounted. the plywood was sized an inch over the pump footprint and screwed down at the corners. that will isolate the pump vibration alot or completely, thru to the coach structure.
next, purchase some braided water supply lines from home depot . they must be at least 24-30 inches to work best. also pick up some hex shouldered close brass nipples (also home depot in the watts section of fittings). install the nipples at the pump, also on the water system lines from the rank to the pump, and at the line to the system(after pump). if you are using an accumulator tank, install them here too and at each side of tank at water system connection. use teflon tape on all threaded connections. one can feel the tightness of the connections best with a small crescent wrench when assembling. this way you can tell if your about to strip the threads. snug is good too tight is bad. also, loop the Water lines 2 or 4 times and wrap them snugly with nylon ties before installation. this is how to best dampen the pump from the system and the structure.
a word about the accumulator tank here. install at least 22" from the pump assembly and before the first fixture. i would recommend a thru connection for least resistance and best water flow.
about water flow. i used 1/2" id (5/8 od) pex water piping thru out my system. here is the best benefit to this type of material. they use plastic type push to Connect fittings made in all conceivable types of fittings. one just cuts the pipe to the desired length and plug the end inti the fitting. its that simple. the system uses plastic radius supports at all bends/ turns so u eliiminate the need for elbows. (big big noise reduction here) on the road repairs are quick ( minutes) and simple(no tools).
i also installed a 3 way valve at the water service door and now i don't hear the pump at all and i only have one knob to turn for all of my fresh water needs. mo motor pump noise from the night trips to the head! the pipe is rated at 170 degrees at 125 psi, well above rv pressures. secure piping at all locations and thru bulkheads as best as you can i used rubber pipe insulation on all hot water pipes and at bulkheads.
p.s. the fittings are in the rv catalogues and are made by seatech, 3 way valve is from flair it, the pex pipe was cheapest thru ace hardware. 50.00 for 100 ft. don't bother with colors, you wont see them after installation is completed. i did a little section of the system each week end and it went together quickly. good luck - mike
sorry for the numerous typos this window doesn't allow fixes!
OP
OP
Tom
Administrator
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2005
- Posts
- 51,913
Jim, you don't see a Modify button alongside your message?
BernieD
Well-known member
Shayne said:
Shayne
The modify button only shows on the messages you wrote
