To recaulk or not

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Paul T Wentworth

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Aug 12, 2018
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I recently purchased  a 1997 Rialta. I have looked at the calking on all the penetrations including the seam between the cab top and the coach roof. For the most part the caulking looks old but most of it seems to be in ok shape.  it appears to be rugged,but old. So here comes some dumb questions.  If you decide to recaulk or reseal the existing caulked areas, you would first remove the existing caulked areas and recaulk or can you should you as a precaution,  caulk over existing caulk just to increase the life of the existing seal that is working properly.  Or should I leave the existing sealed non leaking areas alone altogether even though they are old.

In addition, I found an issue that is apparently common to many Rialtas ( documented on other websites) of this age which is that there is supposed to be 17 self-tapping screws holding the top cap to the coach roof, but on mine as many others, there were none, only 4 threaded 3/4 screws, 2 on either side. ( I found this out when I dropped the ceiling insiode the cab) There is a ton of lap sealant outside on the top seam where the top cap meets the coach roof which spreads out to the leftt and the right where it terminates about 6 inches from the edge of the roof on either side.  This was done I guess to keep the roof cap from separating/leaking at the seam. Good news is that cap did not separate from the coach roof and there are no leaks at that seam!! So I re drilled 17 holes, each one next to each existing hole which were too big for the appropriate screws and buttoned up the ceiling.  But Should I go up on the roof and remove the old caulk and recaulk?  I am thinking if it aint broke don't fix it?

> What do you think?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Im thinking its really up to you.  Either way there is a risk. 

I have sealed around windows on top of old caulk but i made sure to scrub the old stuff with a toothbrush and light soap, rinse, and let it dry first so that the new stuff will stick to it.  But that does not always work depending on type of caulk. 

Then removing the old caulk could create a leak if the new caulk does not seal properly. 

I would prefer cleaning it first and then recaulk unless its a horrizonal surface that can be easily scrapped and recaulked.

Also be sure you use masking tape around the caulking target area (ie window), this will leave a much cleaner professional result.  Just remove the tape before the caulk sets.
 

AndyDanTheMan

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Aug 23, 2018
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I'm a professional roofer, so my knowledge is based on houses, but it's best to work from a clean permanent surface. Pull the old caulking out anywhere it looks a bit rough, use 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around a small dowel stick to scuff any contact surface and pack the seams. Keep a cup of water handy to wet your hands, silicone won't stick to wet skin, so you can really keep it looking clean. Let it dry over night and put a second cover layer spanning about 1/4 to 1/2 over both sides. Make sure the second layer doesn't have any air bubbles to avoid delamination. Clear, flexible dry is probably the best way cosmetically.
 

darsben

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May 30, 2018
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AndyDanTheMan said:
I'm a professional roofer, so my knowledge is based on houses, but it's best to work from a clean permanent surface. Pull the old caulking out anywhere it looks a bit rough, use 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around a small dowel stick to scuff any contact surface and pack the seams. Keep a cup of water handy to wet your hands, silicone won't stick to wet skin, so you can really keep it looking clean. Let it dry over night and put a second cover layer spanning about 1/4 to 1/2 over both sides. Make sure the second layer doesn't have any air bubbles to avoid delamination. Clear, flexible dry is probably the best way cosmetically.

NO SILICONE
 

jackiemac

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http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php/topic,113627.msg1029429.html#msg1029429
 

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