Toad and/or Motorcycle

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ghunnicu

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Oct 27, 2012
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Howdy Y'all. We recently purchased a Fleetwood Discovery and plan to become full-timers in a few years when I retire. It would be nice to have the option of being able to take our Harley and/or a toad with us. I'd like to ask for advice on the best way to do this.
Mud & Linda in Texas 
 
We towed a 2008 Ford Ranger 4x4 Auto years ago with our Road King in the truck bed. Truck had the seven foot box, and was great to tow. We no longer have the Ranger or Harley, but do still have the tow bar, and the Ford neutral tow kit we will sell reasonable if someone is interested.
 
Several friends use a  rig like this so they can also tow their vehicle. Several others tow with a the bike in the pickup bed, like Becks, and several others tow in an enclosed trailer.

There have been several threads in the recent past here, probably in the towing section, where some of your questions could be answered.
 
We towed our touring bikes to the east coast last year on a flat deck trailer behind my mh. It worked fine, but a few times the bikes got pretty dirty. I recently bought an enclosed trailer so this will eliminate that problem. The other problem we had was the flatdeck trailer only had atv type ramps, so getting the bikes on and off was a bit of a nailbiter. My bike weighs 900 lbs, and I had visions of it flipped over, trying to get it down those thin ramps. My enclosed trailer has the drop down rear ramp gate which will eliminate the ramp issue.  It also has tie down locations along the floor for attaching the bikes. The only other think I was thinking of adding is maybe a camera inside the trailer so I can keep an eye on things as we travel. Never hurts. Good luck and happy trails.
 
My husband and I are facing the same dilemma.  We are going to be fulltimers, and we want to have the Harley and the toad with us.  We are getting a motorcycle lift installed on the back of the RV.  We have it narrowed down to either the Cruiserlift, or the hydralift. We found both of these on line.  Good luck with whatever you decide.

Beth
 
We went the enclosed trailer route.  We mainly used the trailer for carrying our sand toys to the desert but over the past several years we started to use it to haul the Jeep, our Harley and our son's Buell when we travel.  It is nice to have all of the toys with you plus have a full workshop, especially when we go with our Jeep club,  never fails someone always needs something repaired.

Mike.

First picture is loading the Jeep at home.

Second pictures is of the Jeep and bikes unloaded in Ouray, CO last August.
 

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Been fulltime for 3-1/2 years but not yet retired. Run away from NE Winters Jan. - early April, have only ever brought my Harley (in an enclosed 6' x 10' trailer). On the rare occasions when it rains I take a "down day" and enjoy the imposed quite time. The plan is in a few years (upon actual retirement) to buy a Tour 42QD or similar floorplan, and tow a larger all aluminum trailer (for reduced weight and corrosion resistance) that could house 2 bikes side by each and a Smart car. That setup would only tip the scale at about 5,500 - 6,000 lbs. Right now, I don't nearly get to ride as often as I wish in the summertime, so I'm content to have only the bike for now. Usually put 4,000 - 6,000 miles on it during my winter break.
 
Hey Michael,
You will find (as I did) that an all alluminum trlr will weigh MORE than a standard trlr. Alluminum has to be thicker to hold the same amount of weight.
 
deerwinnie said:
Hey Michael,
You will find (as I did) that an all alluminum trlr will weigh MORE than a standard trlr. Alluminum has to be thicker to hold the same amount of weight.

Not necessarily.  But it won't be the weight savings that you would think.  I looked at T&E trailers prior to us ordering/purchasing our 2008 Haulmark Edge and the weight savings was less than 20%, closer to about 17%.  The real issue was the cost @ 230% that of my Haulmark.  I loved the T&E and it was in a class by itself, but it came at a cost.

Mike.
 
Good morning, I'm including the "makes and models" so you can do your own fact checking if you wish.

Haulmark TST85X20WT2 (steel)      OAL - 23'6"; inside L - 20'5"; W - 96"; curb wt. - 3,245; gross - 7,000
Rance RECH818TA2 (all-aluminum)  OAL - 24'6"; inside L - 21'4"; W - 96"; curb wt. - 2,550; gross - 7,000

The Rance has a foot more interior length and weighs almost 700 lbs. less, the math says thats over a 21% reduction. 700 lbs. is significant, it could mean a full tank of fresh water, or a third bike in the trailer, or tools, etc. Weight wasn't my only concern, it was a benefit. Corrosion resistance and quality are my two main concerns. In a way it's very similar to the gasMH vs. dieselMH issue, when you buy a diesel you don't just get a gasMH with a diesel engine. Most all-aluminum trailers are simply made better than the steel ones. Heck, Featherlight has a 10 year warranty on theirs, you don't see that from any steel trailer manufacturer.  ...and yes, all-aluminum trailers cost more than steel.

trailer          2,550
bike                750
bike                800
2008 Smart  1,650

Total            5,750 lbs. (looks like between 5,500 and 6,000 to me!)

There is a reason Boeing doesn't make planes out of steel!
 
Nice comparison Michael. Just out of curiosity, do you have any idea what the price differences are between the two?  It would be interesting to see a "price per pound" comparison as to what you get for your money.
 
No hard figures this time... just an opinion I've come to hold after doing ongoing research (you could call it ?window shopping?!) for about a year now.

With all variables comparable - length, GVW, etc. I?ve been looking in the 18? ? 20? range. All-aluminum ones fall in the $9,000-12,000 zone, and steel counterparts are $4,500-6,000. But there are so many options it?s difficult to compare trailers on lots, finished/unfinished inside; toolboxes; cabinets; aluminum decking/Advantech decking; side entry door/no door; etc. I think it?s safe to say you?ll spend close to double for an all-aluminum one. That said, if you get 20 years out of an aluminum and 10 years out of a steel, then it would be about the same. ?and if after 10 years you bought another steel the price perhaps has doubled, so now you are considerably behind.

Basically it?s no different than buying a car or motorhome, all the same logic and criteria will apply, quality, style, functionality, cost, etc.
 
I will agree with Michael's analogy on the trailers he is comparing.

That said, the trailers that I was looking at or comparing at the time we were looking were a T&E 26' aluminum race trailer weighing 3950 pounds and cost was $49k.  The steel 26' Haulmark Edge race trailer I was looking at was 4600 pounds and cost was just over $19k, 257% difference in price.  Not the same as the comparison given by Michael but yes the aluminum is lighter.  However, can it justify the cost difference?  Yes to some people, no to others.  Would I love to have an aluminum T&E, hell yes.

Choices are what make this country great.  Whatever someone wants to spend on whatever someone wants to buy.

My 26' Haulmark with nothing loaded, weighs 5500 pounds now that I have my air compressor and toolbox/tools loaded.  With the Jeep (5500 pounds), Harley (665 lbs.) son's Buell (400 lbs) and spare fuel parts the trailer is weighing in at 12,400 pounds.  Hooked to the back of a 36k pound coach for a total of 48,400 pounds.

Compared to what a T&E trailer which was 650 pounds lighter than my Haulmark, that 650 pounds would not even be detectable behind the coach.  48,400 (Haulmark) vs. 47,750 (T&E) completely loaded combined weights for my pocket didn't add up to enough to constitute the $30k difference. 

Mike.
 

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