Isaac-1
Well-known member
As long as the wire is the proper size I don't see where it matters much, though you will want to include a solar disconnect for when are doing maintenance
I can see the logic. It makes some sense. It's just not a shortcut I'd take unless the wire run was too far to the batteryIt's not so much the run as it is eliminating the step of having to drill a hole through the floor and run a separate line to the batteries. Just wondering if this would bypass that step.
Character flaw on my part. I tend to overthink and overbuild things. I already bought the 8awg solar wire and the 4awg welding wire so I might as well use them.Let's get a few things straight. It would help to know if you have a "Progressive Dynamics PD4645V charger and stock inverter" as you said, or if you have a Converter/Charger. Perhaps you misspoke about the "inverter."
How much solar do you plan to install? I ask because the current coming out of your solar charge controller generally is not all that large. So, using heavy gauge "welding wire in conduit" is overkill unless you're installing 800w or more of panels. Typically, on a Class C you'd see something like 400w and that produces less than 30-amps max coming out of your charge controller.
What charge controller are you planning to use, and are you wiring in Parallel, Series or a combination of both?
I haven't seen the YouTube you mention, but I'd have to guess that that guy just used the battery connection at the charger simply for wiring convenience - not actually using the charger for anything. It's very unusual and your plan to wire directly to the battery bank is the right way to go - just reconsider the very heavy wiring from controller to the batteries. For 30-amp you'll be fine with 10ga wire unless it's a long run and then consider 8ga.
that's exactly what I thought about the 30a plus 30a. Thanks for clarifying.I would install buss bars. Then crimp on ring connectors on the 3-pairs of wire; one pair from solar, one pair from converter/charger output and a third pair from the battery bank. Then give each wire their own post on each buss bar.
In essence you will not be adding any extra amperage. When plugged into shore power your converter/charger will take on charging your batteries. When not connected to shore power your solar charge controller will take on charging your batteries. The solar charge controller reads your battery voltage and applies charging based on that voltage. When your converter/charger is charging your batteries at 13.7v (or more) your solar charge controller is smart enough to read that voltage as battery voltage and stop nearly all charging.
People mistakenly think if they are plugged into shore power and charging a battery with 30 amps from a converter/charger and also are parked in the sun that their solar charge controller is adding another 30 amps for a total of 60 amps. But in my experience, my 300w of solar only applies it's charging amps when no other charger is present. This includes while driving and getting a charge from the alternator.
In most cases, I believe this to be true, but in cases of batteries that could accept more than the max output of your charger/converter or charger/inverter, then I believe you would see output from your solar array going into the batteries as well. I am particularly thinking of lithium iron phosphate batteries that have a very high acceptance rate.I would install buss bars. Then crimp on ring connectors on the 3-pairs of wire; one pair from solar, one pair from converter/charger output and a third pair from the battery bank. Then give each wire their own post on each buss bar.
In essence you will not be adding any extra amperage. When plugged into shore power your converter/charger will take on charging your batteries. When not connected to shore power your solar charge controller will take on charging your batteries. The solar charge controller reads your battery voltage and applies charging based on that voltage. When your converter/charger is charging your batteries at 13.7v (or more) your solar charge controller is smart enough to read that voltage as battery voltage and stop nearly all charging.
People mistakenly think if they are plugged into shore power and charging a battery with 30 amps from a converter/charger and also are parked in the sun that their solar charge controller is adding another 30 amps for a total of 60 amps. But in my experience, my 300w of solar only applies it's charging amps when no other charger is present. This includes while driving and getting a charge from the alternator.
If the LFP batteries are being charged they show the charge voltage being applie on any voltmeter. They don't show the actual battery voltage, just the charge voltage. The solar charge controller is wired directly to the batteries. It monitors battery voltage directly. Hence, when the battery voltage is displaying the charge voltage THAT is the voltage the solar charge controller sees and acts upon.I am particularly thinking of lithium iron phosphate batteries that have a very high acceptance rate.