I have had a problem a couple of time with my tow bar binding when I go to unhitch. ?I have a Roadmaster Falcon 5250. ?It has a button on the top of each arm that is supposed to loosen the arms so that there is no tention. ?The last time I was at a campground it was so tight I started to wonder of I was ever going to get the car unhooked. ?Has anyone had this happen? ?Do you have a tips or tricks to keep this from happening or to releve the tention if it occurs?
Tow bar binding
- Thread starter Rollie
- Start date
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Tom
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Rollie,
Roadmaster provides a lever so you can easily depress the button when it's tight. Roadmaster calls it a 'quick release tool'. If you didn't get one with the tow bar, give them a call.
Their all-terrain tow bars use a pair of small cam levers to do the same thing.
Roadmaster provides a lever so you can easily depress the button when it's tight. Roadmaster calls it a 'quick release tool'. If you didn't get one with the tow bar, give them a call.
Their all-terrain tow bars use a pair of small cam levers to do the same thing.
Tom
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Rollie,
Were the coach and car way off kilter? I've never failed to get mine released, although I've had to use a hammer and punch to remove the hitch pins on a few occasions even though the buttons were depressed.
Were the coach and car way off kilter? I've never failed to get mine released, although I've had to use a hammer and punch to remove the hitch pins on a few occasions even though the buttons were depressed.
rhmahoney
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I'm always having trouble with my Roadmaster Falcon binding. For least hassle always make sure the coach and car are in a straight line. If they are angled, you will bind.
Set the gear in park/emergency brake on.
If the pins do not come right out:
start engine
turn steering wheel all the way to one side
try pins again
turn steering wheel the other way and try again.
If no go, I then put car in gear and edge foreward.
then I use the breaker bar to depress the button on tow bar arm.
Best is to have an assistant move the car foreward 2-3 inches while you hold the release buttons down.
Set the gear in park/emergency brake on.
If the pins do not come right out:
start engine
turn steering wheel all the way to one side
try pins again
turn steering wheel the other way and try again.
If no go, I then put car in gear and edge foreward.
then I use the breaker bar to depress the button on tow bar arm.
Best is to have an assistant move the car foreward 2-3 inches while you hold the release buttons down.
Karl
Moderator Emeritus
I have the same problem with my Roadmaster Sterling. No button, but a lever you raise. At least that's the theory. They replaced it a couple years ago at the Albuquerque FMCA convention, but it wasn't long before the new one did the same thing and more often than not have to use the Russ method to release it. Bummer.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I have a Blue Ox and the only time it won't release is when there is serious tension on the bar
(It uses cam levers)
Lubricaiton might help, I don't know since I have a Blue Ox
Now: Why did I choose Blue Ox over Roadmaster... Simple, My dealer is a Blue Ox Dealer, not a Roadmaster Dealer
Am I happy with the choice.. VERY, thei customer service when I had a problem was fantastic, The only issue is they claim the problem was not their fault (And as it happens I agree with that assesment, I mean their reasons for feeling that way are things I personally observed so I have not choice to agree with them) Still, they gave me a new tow bar without question and paid to have the old one returned Fed-Ex both ways
(It uses cam levers)
Lubricaiton might help, I don't know since I have a Blue Ox
Now: Why did I choose Blue Ox over Roadmaster... Simple, My dealer is a Blue Ox Dealer, not a Roadmaster Dealer
Am I happy with the choice.. VERY, thei customer service when I had a problem was fantastic, The only issue is they claim the problem was not their fault (And as it happens I agree with that assesment, I mean their reasons for feeling that way are things I personally observed so I have not choice to agree with them) Still, they gave me a new tow bar without question and paid to have the old one returned Fed-Ex both ways
I think Russ hit for me ... the car was at an angle to the coach when I have had the problem. Of course when you pull into a site you can't always pull in far enough that the car will track straight. Thanks for the tip of turning the steering wheel ... I will try that. I tried moving the car a little and eventually I got it to loosen up. As Tom stated I have also had to beat the hitch pins out even with the buttons released. Maybe the best is to unhook before getting to the campsite so you can pick a point where all is straight in a line.
Our Blue Ox Aladdin has never needed any force to release the tension, even when the car is at quite an angle. At worst, a tap with my hand will release the locking levers. Once the tension is released, the pins should slide right out if everything is working correctly.
However, as stated, it's easiest to unhook while straight and level before arriving at the campsite if there could be a problem.
However, as stated, it's easiest to unhook while straight and level before arriving at the campsite if there could be a problem.
Tom
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Next time we're at a rally or camped with you I'll show you how to get your tow bar to bind 
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Rollie,
If it looks like you can't pull in straight, unhook the car before pulling into the site (just like you would do if its a back-in).
However, you should not have that much trouble depressing the buttons, especially using the "persuader" tool. Give each button a shot of WD40 or other light lubricant and work the buttons a bit. Should do wonders for them.
If it looks like you can't pull in straight, unhook the car before pulling into the site (just like you would do if its a back-in).
However, you should not have that much trouble depressing the buttons, especially using the "persuader" tool. Give each button a shot of WD40 or other light lubricant and work the buttons a bit. Should do wonders for them.
Gary,
I will do the WD40 ... but it doesn't seem to be the buttons that are the problem .. with the persuader I can get them depressed but the arms don't budge. I have just sent an email question to Roadmaster .... I'll report back with their response.
I will do the WD40 ... but it doesn't seem to be the buttons that are the problem .. with the persuader I can get them depressed but the arms don't budge. I have just sent an email question to Roadmaster .... I'll report back with their response.
RoadMaster got back to me ...
When unhooking, the car needs to be in neutral--no brake. Then unlock
arms. Set brake or put in gear, then remove base pins.
Thank you,
Jody
RMI Technical Support
Hummm ... I know I had it in Park ... what do you think ...
When unhooking, the car needs to be in neutral--no brake. Then unlock
arms. Set brake or put in gear, then remove base pins.
Thank you,
Jody
RMI Technical Support
Hummm ... I know I had it in Park ... what do you think ...
Tom
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Rollie,
Their procedure would be a challenge if you were parked on a hilll - all that weight pushing forward (or pulling back) would mean the pins would be tough to get out. If on level ground, their procedure should work.
Their procedure would be a challenge if you were parked on a hilll - all that weight pushing forward (or pulling back) would mean the pins would be tough to get out. If on level ground, their procedure should work.
Our procedure is to put on the park brake, if not on a level surface, tap the levers to release the arm tension, then roll the car forward a few inches to make removing the pins a simple job. No tension on them at all this way. If I left the car unbraked on a downslope, then released the tension (which could be done, but not as easily as when the car is braked) the car would completely compress the tow bar arms and probably break my leg
Whoever thought up that RoadMaster procedure must never have used a tow bar.
Whoever thought up that RoadMaster procedure must never have used a tow bar.
The reply that said to put the car in park, set the parking brake and start the engine to turn the wheel one way and then the other is right on the mark for the Falcon 5250. I have had the same towbar for eight years and this procedure works for me every time. If you are so far out of level that the bind isn't released by doing that, move the rig forward a bit. I just rattle the two sides of the bar to see when they're loose.
Happy Trails
Jarhead 2
San Jacinto CA.
'96 Rolls Air
Saturn Toad
Happy Trails
Jarhead 2
San Jacinto CA.
'96 Rolls Air
Saturn Toad
