Towing a 33' Travel Trailer w/a Half-Ton Truck

[COTraveler]

Hi everyone,

My wife and I are planning to full-time in an RV for a couple of years before we settle down to start a family. Because we just recently purchased a 2015 F150, we're looking into travel trailers that are large enough for full-time living, yet light enough to pull behind our truck. Any thoughts or opinions on the below setup (which we're still looking at) would be most appreciated!

Tow Vehicle:
2015 F150 S-Crew 3.5L EcoBoost
Rated towing capacity = 10,700 pounds
Payload = 1900 pounds
Rear GAWR = 3800 pounds
Estimated passenger and cargo weight in truck = 500 pounds
Hensley Anti-Sway Hitch weight = 190 pounds

Travel Trailer in Consideration:
2016 Dutchmen Kodiak 291RELS
GVWR = 8900 pounds
Tongue weight at 15% of GVWR = 1335
Length = 32'4"

My biggest concern with this setup is the payload limit on the truck. By the time you factor truck cargo/passenger weights and the Hensley hitch weight, we're at 690 pounds. Then, add the weight of the fully loaded trailer tongue and we're at 2025 pounds. Even if we don't fully load the trailer, we're still right at the maximum payload rating. If we didn't already own a truck, then I'd be looking for an F250 with a 3000+ payload to handle the load, but... 

Does anyone have experience with this type of setup? If so, how did you maintain your payload rating on your truck? Thanks in advance!

-Scott

 

[Jennifercks]

Seriously, get a smaller, lighter trailer. You are going to HATE your life pulling that thing around with an F-150.

I have an F-350 with a similarly sized, but lighter weight trailer and it's no picnic. The truck does not care, but the sheer size of this thing is just no fun to maneuver.

We tried it with our older F-250 that had similar tow capacity as your numbers for your new F-150 ... we went about 50 miles and said No More!

For just the two of you with no kids, you can find a lot of trailers that are shorter and lighter weight and still roomy inside. Look for something 25-ft or under and GVWR of around 6,000 to 7,000 and you will be much much happier.

 

[sadixon49]

Jennifer is correct, the easiest answer is to buy a smaller trailer. If you are really sold on this 33' trailer, then remember you can reduce your tongue weight to no less than 10%, but that should get you into at least a legal position. Again, the real answer is get a smaller trailer, or get a bigger truck. I know that's harsh, but sometimes you just got to deal with reality.

 

[Gizmo]

Without knowing what your needs are it is tough to advise which way to go.  Likely the easiest solution as others have said is to get a smaller lighter TT, but you mention full timing which brings in another set of considerations.  First is, how much space will you require or like to have?  So you will have to consider is a smaller TT in your best interest?  Generally speaking a lighter TT which typically translates to lighter less robust components is generally not a good choice for a full timer.  My suggestion would be to bite the bullet and get at least a 3/4 ton, even better a 1 ton pick-up and then get the TT that will best fit your needs, wants & desires.  If you are absolutely set on keeping your truck, then as others said your best option is to look for a smaller lighter TT.

 

[RVRAC]

You would have too much weight, but more important the TT you are considering is too long for a 1500 truck.

This is what someone who had an F150 stated in this forum sometime ago:

"Up until ~3 months ago I had a '13 F150 Ecoboost FX4 Screw 4x4 w/3.73's and tow package. By the book, I was able to tow up to 11,300lbs?

? but I quickly learned that: "just because it can, doesn't mean it should".

Our 2010 Sprinter 311BHS is around 8250lbs dry, and adds a couple of '000lbs loaded. She's also almost 36' hanging off the rear bumper.

On the flat or inclines, that truck had power to spare - a phenomenal little motor (sure, gas mileage was appalling, but for outright power, it was unbelievable). BUT get me on the freeway and amongst tractor trailers, and the trailer sway was ridiculous (even with anti-sway & WD hitch & LT tires on the truck). Likewise, coming down even moderate hills I'd often be riding the trailer brakes much of the way to prevent the trailer trying to push the truck off the road and into a ditch.

That little F150 is a great truck for many reasons, but I lost sight of the fact that it is (and always will be) a half-ton truck with half-ton brakes and half-ton weight."

I traded her back in March for the bigger 3/4 ton truck I *should* have bought to tow that trailer with in the first place, and haven't looked back yet. If you're already contemplating a truck upgrade, I'd suggest considering something bigger/heavier than the F150. From a purchase standpoint, there's not much in it (cost-wise) anymore, and travelling with the trailer will be far less 'uneventful' (and that's a good thing!)"

 

[COTraveler]

Without knowing what your needs are it is tough to advise which way to go.  Likely the easiest solution as others have said is to get a smaller lighter TT, but you mention full timing which brings in another set of considerations.  First is, how much space will you require or like to have?  So you will have to consider is a smaller TT in your best interest?  Generally speaking a lighter TT which typically translates to lighter less robust components is generally not a good choice for a full timer.  My suggestion would be to bite the bullet and get at least a 3/4 ton, even better a 1 ton pick-up and then get the TT that will best fit your needs, wants & desires.  If you are absolutely set on keeping your truck, then as others said your best option is to look for a smaller lighter TT.

Thanks for the feedback! Your points about full-timing are exactly my concerns with going smaller. My wife and I are both F/T working professionals, and need space for desks, etc. Plus, I'm very concerned about the quality of most lightweight trailers in a full-timing setup (not to mention most don't have the insulation and cold-weather packages that we'll need). We're going to go look around again today at the lot, but I don't see us going smaller on the TT, only bigger on the truck if absolutely necessary.

Thanks again for your feedback!
-Scott

 

[keymastr]

Take a look at Outdoors RV.  They have true four season trailers that have much better insulation and better build quality than many.  They also make Arctic Fox.

Many of the brands that advertise as 1/2 ton towable are not really half ton towable although the salesman will tell you you can tow anything on his lot. A trailer made well enough for full timing will be much heavier than a half ton will safely tow in almost all cases, especially if you want a larger trailer. What they do to make them lighter also makes them flimsier. That may be fine for someone who leaves it at their lake property all year but not so good for people who are on the road all the time. Potholes and bridge approaches really take their toll.

 

[COTraveler]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all of the feedback and opinions! Very helpful. I full-timed previously when I was managing a resort here in Colorado, and swore I'd never get a 5th again because of the size. But after thinking it through, we're most likely going with a 35' fifth wheel with an F350. The overall length will be less, it's more stable to pull, and the truck will be able to handle it. Not to mention, the fifths that we're looking at are meant for FT use. We didn't want to take that big of a plunge, but with both of us working FT, we need the space and setup.

Thanks again,
Scott

 

[sadixon49]

Glad to here that. It sounds like a reasonable approach.

 

[grashley]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all of the feedback and opinions! Very helpful. I full-timed previously when I was managing a resort here in Colorado, and swore I'd never get a 5th again because of the size. But after thinking it through, we're most likely going with a 35' fifth wheel with an F350. The overall length will be less, it's more stable to pull, and the truck will be able to handle it. Not to mention, the fifths that we're looking at are meant for FT use. We didn't want to take that big of a plunge, but with both of us working FT, we need the space and setup.

Thanks again,
Scott

Good Decision!!

Your FT needs and quality concerns for "lite" campers are very real.  The ? ton truck would be completely unable to safely pull the camper you want and need.

The F350 SRW (Single Rear Wheel) should handle any FW up to about 15,000# GVWR.  Next year's models will probably raise that number.

Come back with any and all questions as you continue the quest.

 

[Jennifercks]

You will love the F350! Good decision, glad you decided to move up!

 

[Gizmo]

Good decision, best of luck.

 

[Hatchee]

Not wanting to start a Ford, GM, Dodge war but have you driven a GMC3500 or Dodge 1 ton.  I have always been a Ford man.  My 6th F150 is in my driveway with 246k miles and going strong.  But DW & I decided on the GMC after driving all three. To be honest, the F350 was our last choice.  YMMV.  Either way, you are making a good decision to move up.

 

[Frizlefrak]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all of the feedback and opinions! Very helpful. I full-timed previously when I was managing a resort here in Colorado, and swore I'd never get a 5th again because of the size. But after thinking it through, we're most likely going with a 35' fifth wheel with an F350. The overall length will be less, it's more stable to pull, and the truck will be able to handle it. Not to mention, the fifths that we're looking at are meant for FT use. We didn't want to take that big of a plunge, but with both of us working FT, we need the space and setup.

Thanks again,
Scott

Very wise decision.  Good thing you checked in here before pulling the trigger on a setup that won't work. 

 

[COTraveler]

Not wanting to start a Ford, GM, Dodge war but have you driven a GMC3500 or Dodge 1 ton.  I have always been a Ford man.  My 6th F150 is in my driveway with 246k miles and going strong.  But DW & I decided on the GMC after driving all three. To be honest, the F350 was our last choice.  YMMV.  Either way, you are making a good decision to move up.

Thanks for opinion! I haven't yet driven all three. I've heard great things about the Chevy/GMC in terms of comfort and engine noise. I've also heard great things about Dodge diesels. My family have all driven Fords for as long as I can remember, and I, too, have an F150 sitting the garage. That said, I'm just not loving the 350! Thanks again!

Scott

 

[blw2]

can't add much to what has already been suggested
except to suggest to get real weights.
no matter if for the current F1500 or a new F3500, or wherever you land

Just because the book says "tow rating", that aint the full picture.
that rating of 10,700# you mentioned in the 1st post is almost meaningless.

In your OP, you did good in estimating the adds
but in my experience when looking at towing something significant like a house, it's wise to get real data

I think it's smart to load the truck up as close to possible to how it will be towing, full gas, cooler in the back, family in seats, etc... and weigh it.  You'll still have to estimate a few things such as tongue weight, but you'll have a much tighter handle on things.

Then don't look at the "rating"
instead look at the towing tables in the manual
cross referenced to your exact equipment (engine, tranny options, rear end gear options, etc...)
to get the ACTUAL GVWR and GCVWR

I did this exercise for my 1/2 ton silvy with factory tow package, and was surprised on how much less that the "rating" I can safely tow.

 

[Gizmo]

I think it's smart to load the truck up as close to possible to how it will be towing, full gas, cooler in the back, family in seats, etc... and weigh it.  You'll still have to estimate a few things such as tongue weight, but you'll have a much tighter handle on things.

No need to factor in a full tank of fuel as that is already included and assumed in the ratings and on the newer trucks a passenger up to as I recall 150 pounds is also factored in.

 

[Tom Hoffman]

As you can see by my equipment list, I have a larger rig than average, that being said, I have had a couple of seriously butt puckering moments towing especially over mountains.  Lost the brakes on  the trailer on a 7K elevation down slope just as I started down going N to Flagstaff.  If I hadn't had a 1 Ton with fresh brakes, I doubt we would nave made it to the bottom. 

Why are newbies fascinated with getting the biggest trailers with the lightest trucks?  Makes no sense to me.  I guess they believe the salesman.

 

[grashley]

As you can see by my equipment list, I have a larger rig than average, that being said, I have had a couple of seriously butt puckering moments towing especially over mountains.  Lost the brakes on a 7K elevation down slope just as i started down going N to Flagstaff.  If I hadn't had a 1 Ton with fresh brakes, I doubt we would nave made it to the bottom. 

Why are newbies fascinated with getting the biggest trailers with the lightest trucks?  Makes no sense to me.  I guess they believe the salesman.

GREAT TESTIMONIAL!! This is why I harp on having enough truck!!

Reading between the lines - the manufacturer clearly states the truck brakes are designed to stop the truck GVWR  ONLY.  Trailer brakes are also required.  Without trailer brakes, you were able to safely get down the hill, but it was absolutely no fun!

 

[longhaul]

Actually brakes on any vehicle on the road are the function of the GAWR's not the GVWR. 

Copy and paste from a previous FMCSA home page article on commercial vehicle inspections;

NHTSA says this about components of the GAWR:
"Gross Axle Weight Rating is the rated load-carrying capacity of an individual axle and wheel assembly. (It represents the load that may be steadily sustained by the components in the system; i.e., tires, rims, hubs, bearing, axles, brakes, suspension, sub frame, etc. with the GAWR limited by the components with the lowest working rating".  eoq.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Dexter axle;

The Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of your running gear is determined by the lowest rated component in the assembly. The capacity of the wheel, tire, axle, brake, springs/rubber and hub are all considered.

In many cases such as a 3/4 ton truck the brakes can be the same capacity as the same brand one ton SRW trucks.