Towing a vehicle

Todd Studebaker

New Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2026
Posts
1
Location
30168
I'm brand new to RVing. I just purchased a used Winnebago suncruiser and I need to know what's the best way to tow a vehicle. My current truck can't be flat towed or with a car dolly. I'm pretty sure that I don’t want to purchase an aluminum trailer. So I'm looking for suggestions on vehicles to purchase and thoughts on flat towing vs dolly towing. Thx....
 
Towing a front wheel drive car with a dolly works well but it can sometimes be a problem where to park the dolly when in a campsite. While you see rear wheel drive cars towed on a dolly backwards, it is not recommended because of the stress on the front suspension. Most people who try flat towing a vehicle soon agree that it is the most convenient way to do it. But you do need to make sure that the chosen vehicle can be towed on it's wheels without damage and that it doesn't weigh more than your motorhome should be towing. A car that is towed behind a motorhome will track inside of the tracks of the motorhome so they are seldom a problem in turns but it does mean that you cannot safely back for more than a few feet. There are lists of vehicles that can be towed but the ultimate authority is the vehicle owner's manual. We hesitated to tow a vehicle when we first got our class A motorhome, but once we started we never looked back. We used a Blue Ox towbar and adapters for the three different vehicles we towed, and we also had a Brake Buddy ausiliary brake.

If you tow you should get an auxiliary brake system for the vehicle that you are towing, as well as brake & taillight provision, and It isn't inexpensive to get everything set up. Each vehicle that you tow must have it's own adapter plate installed, where using a dolly will allow the towing of any vehicle that will properly fit on the dolly with no additional cost.
 
I have towed a vehicle both ways, prefer flat towing, Right now I have a dolly. I wanted the car I have which I bought without a concern for towing it. When I replace it, it will be a flat tow car. Either way, you will need to buy some equipment, for a dolly, buy used. Get one with brakes. My current one has surge, I have had the electric as well. If you get a flat-towable car, you will need the tow equiipment, Blue Ox or Roadmaster are two top ones, I used Blue Ox. Then you need the car specific base plate. Next is an auxiliary braking system. All this new will be around $3-4000, but keep an eye on the used market. I sold all mine sometime back, and they are available. Probably do it all for around $1-1500. I actually bought my last braking system new, they weren’t really on used market yet.
 
Keep an eye out in the classifieds, right now there is a 2013 Jeep Wrangler that is already set up for flat towing. for sale in the classifieds.

Some vehicles are well suited to flat towing, some can but complicated setup each time, others simply cannot be flat towed. Keep it as light as possible.

I recall Saturn Vue's were popular flat tow vehicles, easy hook up and go, no flip this, push that disconnect something else, like some cars are.

Charles

My favorite TOAD..........................
1776386378199.jpeg
 
You say your truck can't be flat towed. If it's rear wheel drive automatic you can go with a driveline disconnect. We flat towed a 97 Blazer rear wheel automatic with a shaft disconnect for years.
 
I have, and have had, two Jeep Liberty's,, they were built from 02 until 2012 and are excellent flat tow vehicles. Both were fitted with air brake systems from G&M braking and are easy to install.. Four wheel drive with a transfer box that will shift in & out of gear with a touch of a button and a capable V6 cylinder engine..>>>Dan
 
Last edited:
There are guides listing the 4-down (flat) towable vehicles. It's handy for shopping but always verify in the owner manual for the vehicle before you buy. If the manual doesn't have Recreational (Dinghy) Towing instructions, stay away from it. Also, sometimes a year/make/model is towable only with certain engine & transmission configurations, so be cautious when choosing.

 
Then there are cars that have onerous limitations on them. I think its some model of Honda that limits you to 60 mph and every 3 hrs you have to stop, and start the TOAD up and run it for 5 minutes and cycle the transmission thru all the selector positions, then put it back in neutral (or however it is set up).

Many people will tell you all manual shifts are flat towable, which is not true. In a manual shift being towed, the rear main shaft is spinning and nothing else is, so there is no lube being thrown up by the cluster gear to keep the rear mainshaft bearing lubricated. Some vehicles get enough splash from bumps and shaking and others, like the little BMW Z3 two seat sports car, have the fluid level so far below the mainshaft that they cannot be flat towed.

Others, such as some late model JEEP products with electric boosted steering, may require a special wiring harness from the dealer to power the steering during tow to prevent damage to the steering system.

When I had the motor home I looked into a TOAD but it meant more insurance, maintenance, etc and for my limited traveling, I could not justify it. I finally found that a motorhome, even the small class C I had, simply didn't fit my traveling and camping style. I sold it and bought a pickup truck and travel trailer. Everyone has different styles of camping and traveling and there are configurations of RV's that suit them best.

Charles
 
Last edited:
It becomes an extra vehicle. It might be insured while it is connected to the MH but the moment you disconnect it, it has to have its own insurance. I would not be able to get a tag/registration without insurance on it. In Georgia every motorized vehicle has to have insurance in order to register it or renew the registration.

Yes, I have insurance on my Travel Trailer, even though it is not required, however due to the value of it, I consider it a "necessity", however it is no where near as much money as an auto or jeep or truck would be.
 
Last edited:
It becomes an extra vehicle. It might be insured while it is connected to the MH but the moment you disconnect it, it has to have its own insurance.
Each vehicle has its own insurance policy, just as with any two vehicles. That is true even if never towed. But it is also true for your truck and fifth wheel. Nothing unique or unusual about that. The only difference is that you don't drive the fifth wheel so have RV insurance. Any time that a person owns two motor vehicles that are driven, each must have its own insurance policy that meets the requirements of the state of registration.
 
Last edited:
The point I was making is that the insurance on a TOAD would have been about double that of my trailer (which doesn't actually require any at all as it is covered by the tow vehicle's insurance while hitched).

The insurance on the truck is similar $$ to what the MH insurance was.

Basically I was money ahead to go to a truck and trailer, one drive train to maintain, plus trailer tires and wheel bearings, and I don't live with the nagging fear of the early Sprinter's notorious engine and transmission issues and failures.

Many factors entered into my decision to change the way I RV...... and maintenance cost of keeping up the motorhome drivetrain, plus hassles of my not having a TOAD all pointed toward a truck and trailer.
 
Last edited:
Ah yes but the advantages of a towed
Driving from point a to b in a heavy rain I pull into a rest area in a class A walk back to the "Facility" and return to the seat and continue. YOU Get to go for a walk in the rain.


Once set up at camp I need to run to the store for milk, bread meat, whatever. or point of interest, or church 30 MPV v/s half that if I'm lucky.

Heaven forbid a breakdown. Round, round, get around, I still get around. The Motor home however is parked at the shop.
 
The point I was making is that the insurance on a TOAD would have been about double that of my trailer (which doesn't actually require any at all as it is covered by the tow vehicle's insurance while hitched).
That is still an overstatement. A towed vehicle of any type is covered only for liability (damage to others) while under tow. Damage to the towed vehicle itself still requires it's own insurance. You can choose to ignore that risk, but most owners don't want to gamble that much. And if the vehicle is financed, the lender will insist that it have its own collision & comprehensive insurance coverage.
 
Damage to the towed vehicle itself still requires it's own insurance.
And that is true of damage on the road or while sitting in use or in storage. And there are many hazards that are only covered by RV insurance for a towed RV, such as hail, theft, fire, and lots more. The only part that you do not need that a towed vehicle does is the liability coverage.
 
The point I was making is that the insurance on a TOAD would have been about double that of my trailer (which doesn't actually require any at all as it is covered by the tow vehicle's insurance while hitched).

The insurance on the truck is similar $$ to what the MH insurance was.

Basically I was money ahead to go to a truck and trailer, one drive train to maintain, plus trailer tires and wheel bearings, and I don't live with the nagging fear of the early Sprinter's notorious engine and transmission issues and failures.

Many factors entered into my decision to change the way I RV...... and maintenance cost of keeping up the motorhome drivetrain, plus hassles of my not having a TOAD all pointed toward a truck and trailer.
When the pickup/towing vehicle insurance is used to cover a trailer, the ins. is only liability, no comprehensive for the trailer. That's my understanding anyway.
 

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom