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It's likely going to cost $250-300.00 per hour for the lowboy and that's out and back 1200 mi. each way including time off the road ( and yep you have to pay him to dead head back, he's not doing that on his dime ) + the cost of an escort out and back ( height?) + the cost of a crane on both ends. Not one cent of which is recoverable. All for an estimate?
An estimate can be done right where it sits. If your insurance company handles RV's it either employs, contracts with or contracts with a broker who can dispatch adjusters who handle RV related claims. I'd get my horses back out in front of this cart.
Is this the same RV you were recently complaining Camping World damaged?
 
Oh my goodness.

Okay, now ya gotta tell us what you really want the insurance company to pay you.

If nothing was you fault and it was parked, you will just have to get the negligent party's insurance to pay ALL the Bills.

Do you want them to total or rebuild? What are you really hoping for?
 
It's likely going to cost $250-300.00 per hour for the lowboy and that's out and back 1200 mi. each way including time off the road ( and yep you have to pay him to dead head back, he's not doing that on his dime ) + the cost of an escort out and back ( height?) + the cost of a crane on both ends. Not one cent of which is recoverable. All for an estimate?
An estimate can be done right where it sits. If your insurance company handles RV's it either employs, contracts with or contracts with a broker who can dispatch adjusters who handle RV related claims. I'd get my horses back out in front of this cart.
Is this the same RV you were recently complaining Camping World damaged?
You dont have nearly enough info to know what you are talking about on this one. You are letting previous disagreements affect your responses to my posts. I am respectfully asking you to be civil going forward.

My insurance will pay for what my coverage dictates. To have any chance at all of recovering anything else i need full details on damages and expenses my insurance wont cover.
 
Regardless of what i want to have happen, I can only expect my insurance to cover what the contract says. I am just trying to get out of this with as little out of pocket expenses as possible.

But to answer the question because i will no longer use the rv it would be far easier if the thing were totaled. Small chance of that.

Thanks for the info on heavy haulers. They are one of the xompanulies i am working with
 
Whatever you do not use Allied. They do house moves, general goods, and have a group that does autos.
Had to move across country once and they upped the price $1000 as the goods were in route. They would not release my stuff at the destination until I paid the additional cost. I told them we had a contract and their excuse was that the guy that wrote the contract was no longer with the company. For some reason they did not understand that contract was with Allied Inc. and not the guy who wrote the contract. Had to sue the bastards in small claims to get my stuff. Represented myself in Court and won. SOB's.
 
You dont have nearly enough info to know what you are talking about on this one. You are letting previous disagreements affect your responses to my posts. I am respectfully asking you to be civil going forward.

My insurance will pay for what my coverage dictates. To have any chance at all of recovering anything else i need full details on damages and expenses my insurance wont cover
Well if uncivil is telling you how the cow eats the cabbage how about, good luck with all that then, be sure to let us know how it works out.
 
We just had a 6X6 Military LMTV shipped to Arizona from Illinois on a low boy. The company is called, "Get Loaded Transport, LLC." They're out of 806 E 134th St in Grandview, Missouri 64030. I dealt with "Anita" Her number is (417) 231-5082.
Kev
I just got off the phone with Anita and she was extremely knowledgeable. Thank you for the referral
 
Well if uncivil is telling you how the cow eats the cabbage how about, good luck with all that then, be sure to let us know how it works out.
i talked to 12 companies so far and not a single one charges by the hour.

i have never had to trailer an rv this large before so i dont know what is involved but i need to do the due diligence to find out and decide the best path forward. Sounded like you are trying to convince me this is hopeless and a waste of time.
 
There are literally thousands of bridges and low hanging power lines between you and Elkhart. You will need 15 ft or so clearance. Interstates only have to have 13 ft 6 in if I recall. One thing that almost for certain will have to be done is to have the air conditioner units removed from the roof, and the openings sealed over with heavy plastic sheet, gorilla taped in place.

Charles
 
There are literally thousands of bridges and low hanging power lines between you and Elkhart. You will need 15 ft or so clearance. Interstates only have to have 13 ft 6 in if I recall. One thing that almost for certain will have to be done is to have the air conditioner units removed from the roof, and the openings sealed over with heavy plastic sheet, gorilla taped in place.

Charles
You beet me to it Charles. I was just thinking on the same lines as you. The more I think of it, I’m not sure this can be trailered. You should take a measurement of the height of the trailer at the highest point which may be the front. I agree with Charles as far as the AC’s. . Then take a look at the typical low boy trailer. I’d be willing to bet that the lowbrow would be at least 3’ high. Add the height of your RV and come up with a number. It can’t be over 13’ or else you’ll be in trouble. The transport company is also going the need the height measurement of your RV
 
I know a little about the oversize business.
Hourly charges for local moves--This would definitely be charged by mile or the flat fee quote will likely be based on mileage. IF pilot cars were required that would also be added. If it were a super slow move with several pilots day rate would apply, but this is not the case either
Big rigs average 13'5"tall. Interstate overpasses "average" closer to 16' tall. (One could argue 14'-16') Anything lower will be clearly marked and company will know to ramp the exit or take alternate route.
Before any AC's would be removed, if needed wheels would likely be removed so trailer could be lowered 6-12" on blocks and chained down.
I am confident this can be done--Think of all the HUGE tractors, Rock Trucks, Dozers, Excavators, etc that are moved all over. It just takes the right company and some money.

From what I've read, it can't be moved on its own. Therefore insurance adjuster needs to come to unit for estimate/appraisal. If it can't move, then frame damage is significant, and it will be totaled. Just my .02
 
I will update info as i get it on how this will work. So far almost everyone mentioned rgn trailers, almost no one who had the dimensions and weight were thinking lowboys. Not sure why but my guess would be the length and clearance on the entire length of the rv. The one i am leaning towards so far suggested a landoll as the best option for loading and unloading.

The rv is 13ft 0in from the ground to the highest point when the rv is sitting level. The highest point is the front of the forward ac unit. I can reduce the height by at least a foot if the front landing gear was raised as far as possible but not sure if that is the best way to move it.

i got contacted by at least 50 companies by posting on shiply but their site isnt great for complex moves so i wont be able to get very far with most of those guys. I was amazed at how many really didnt seem to have a clue. So many quoted without even having basic info and just assumed they were gonna show up with an f450, hook up, and drive away.

still have lots of work to do but the guys in the lead talked about all the applicable trailer types, asked important questions, and has access to every type of trailer. They talked about the plusses and minuses of each and were the only ones who mentioned the possibility of needing both oversized permits for each state and escort vehicles.

the height will definitely be the challenge. I thought 14ft was the standard for clearance on interstates but you guys probably know better than me. You are allowed to tow taller with oversize permits which i was told are around $200 per state. There arent any low bridges, tree branches, or low clearance items between where the rv is and getting it on the interstates.

The landoll may avoid the need for specialized equipment to load and unload because of the hydraulics and loading ramp. I am going to do a little experimenting with the kingpin to see how solid it is. If i can set the rv weight on the truck and dont see any issues it will probably be good enough to load and unload, extremely gentle like. I just have to be very careful that the rv doesnt drop on the truck.

I am going to have an nvria inspector do a full inspection prior to moving it so i have what i need to verify what damage occurred when.

The only real options i think i have is fix it, salvage or part it out, or abandon it. Abandoning it is off the table for i think obvious reasons.

We all know how hard valuing used rvs can be but this one was still worth close to $100k. My head is spinning and i will figure this out but even if i have to spend $50k to get it fixed a $50k loss is better than a $100k loss. That is a seriously gross generalization and because the insurance will cover it my loss wont be anywhere near that.

I am about to find out how good my insurance is. So far so good. I have coverage for part of the transport, they will cover up to $500 for me for travel expenses so i can go to elkhart to get the repairs started, and my deductible is $500 with no cap on the maximum coverage. Fingers crossed the story doesnt change when the adjusters have all the claim info.

Been a busy day. Thanks to everyone for posting your ideas. I would be a lot more frantic without the help.
 
I was thinking landoll but was worried about height. Lil bit ago thought stepdeck and loading docks. Really not sure of the difference in height between Landoll and a stepdeck.
You got it — guys understanding permits loading unloading challenges — they get it and that’s what you want.
 
I dont think there is anything out there that will avoid oversize permits. I got a huge education today lol.

Found this article which seems good but i am not an expert on any of this. When i lived in pa i knew lots of guys with anything you needed some had serious acres of equipment i could borrow for free. I was spoiled cause all i had to do was tell them what i wanted to do and they gave me what i needed.

Does the info in the article sound accurate to you guys?

 
So what would it take to fabricate a temporary 5th wheel tongue and frame (assuming this is where the damage is) to bypass the damaged parts? Tie it into the main frame rails and tow the trailer on it's own wheels back to Elkhart.
 
From what I've read, it can't be moved on its own. Therefore insurance adjuster needs to come to unit for estimate/appraisal. If it can't move, then frame damage is significant, and it will be totaled. Just my .02
Apparently it's one of those insurance companies with no claims adjusters. Meantime, no insurance company is going to invest $50,000 to repair a 5th wheel RV with major frame and pin damage and in any case they'd make that determination on site and certainly are not going to throw good money after bad by transporting a wrecked RV 1200 miles to determine if it's even worth repairing.
 
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Apparently it's one of those insurance companies with no claims adjusters.
It certainly is an odd situation.

Must not be anyone else involved in the destruction of property but @rvlifer.

I was hoping someone else did the damage so that the other person's insurance would have to cover everything.

Oh well.
 

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