Trim sealant

[msw3113]

I need to re-install about 10 feet of L-shaped metal trim that screws into the sidewall and supports the horizontal sheet metal of the "chin" area of our 5er.  Guy at the local (independent) RV repair facility advised against using Dicor, saying it is reserved for rubber roof applications.  He suggested using butyl tape formed into the crook of the "L," screwing the trim piece in place, scraping off the squeeze-out with a putty knife, and sealing the edge with a bead of Loctite Poly Seam Seal.

To me it sounds like a reasonable belt-and-suspenders method.  I'm just unfamiliar with the sealants and don't want to make an irrevocable mistake.  But I also want to keep the water out.

What say the experienced posters here? 

 

[SpencerPJ]

I'm not an expert, but this is my favorite adhesive / sealant, for most everything.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044F9KNU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A37KLPQG0QTZGU&psc=1

But an actual picture of your project might get better advise from the true experts, 

 

[ChasA]

What's the "chin" area?

 

[grashley]

The king pin is in the middle of the chin.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The Dicor brand lap sealant comes in a self-leveling form (501LSW) for roofs and a Non-Sag formula (551LSW) for other uses, so the 551 would be the choice for your purpose.  However, I agree that there are better, or at least easier, methods.  I would do as the guy suggests with the butyl tape sealant  and then seal the top edge with any quality caulk, either clear or matching the sidewall color.  The general purpose Polyseamseal is probably fine, but I would choose Geocel Proflex RV, 3M Body Seam-Seal, or the Dicor 551LSW, all of which are tailored for that application.

 

[Old_Crow]

Gary, I've seen you recommend that 3M body seam sealer before.  I've used a lot of that in the past at my restoration shop, but that was all on body seams or maybe underneath the car when replacing floor pans and such. 
In all these applications the sealer gets several coats of primer and paint over it.  Just wondering how that stuff will hold up when exposed to the UV instead of being over-coated? 

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I've not had any problem using 3M Flexiclear Body Seam Sealer on my RV, and 3M includes RVs exterior seams and all unpainted seams in their product recommendations.


https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Flexiclear-Body-Seam-Sealer/?N=5002385+3293194145&rt=rud

 

[Old_Crow]

Okay, same name, different product.  We used the 8500 Autobody sealant.  It's white and water based.  Probably not the tool for this job.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Yeah, they seem to use "body seam seal" on a whole line of products. I was talking about the Flexiclear. It's pricey when bought by the single tube, but an excellent product that applies nicely and lasts well.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/3m-4307/paint---body-repair-16614/sealers---adhesives-25204/adhesives---seam-sealers-19575/c0e374631c2a/3m-flexiclear-tm-body-seam-sealer/08405/4462114

 

[Old_Crow]

I'll try it. I like and trust most 3M products to do what they say they will.
I need to clean the silicone off the tops of the outside window frames and re-do them sometime this winter.  Noticed 3M makes a product for removing silicone caulk too, but I'll probably use GooGone, since I've got a brand new bottle of it already.
All this rubbing and waxing on the exterior of the coach is really getting to my shoulders.  I'd almost rather mow my lawn.  At least I could do that sitting down.  8)

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

It cheaper on Amazon than at auto parts stores. Even better on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Flexiclear-Body-Seam-Sealer-08405-/131146609147

 

[Old_Crow]

Funny you should post that ebay link.  I had an account with that seller(not through ebay)for like 5 years.  I'm still getting their catalogs in the mail.