Troubleshooting LPG Tank Remote Shutoff and Solenoid Coil Issues

[billbenham]

I have a belly-mounted LPG tank with solenoid valve and remote shutoff switch on my 2022 diesel pusher. Just discovered the 12-volt feed to the switch is missing. Probably a blown fuse somewhere but nowhere on any of the diagrams I have can I find what feeds the 12 volts. That's no big deal -- I can improvise a new feed if I have to. But on further investigation I found the plastic housing on the valve coil cracked (from overheating or just old age?) When I put battery power directly to the coil I get no click and no propane (yes, the tank is almost full.) The coil draws about a tenth of an amp -- I see the new Manchester tank valve on eBay has a coil rated 12 volts and 10 watts so this is almost a full amp. So my coil is most likely bad and I need to scrounge one up somewhere. Replacing the tank valve is problematic since the tank is full. Does anybody have a coil lying around they can part with? I could post a picture of my coil if needed. Thanks in advance!

 

[John From Detroit]

The 12 volts to the solenoid passes through the propane (Explosive gas) detector inside the RV usually. There may be a switch on the detector,

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The 12 volts to the solenoid passes through the propane (Explosive gas) detector inside the RV usually. There may be a switch on the detector,

That hasn't been true for a couple decades, John. None of the more recent LP gas detectors have auto-shutoff capability. The OP is talking about an owner-operated remote shutoff switch inside the RV that is used in lieu of the manual shutoff on an embedded ASME tank under the coach. The manual valve on the tank is inaccessible without crawling under the coach, so a remote shutoff is provided for convenience.

 

[billbenham]

I have a belly-mounted LPG tank with solenoid valve and remote shutoff switch on my 2022 diesel pusher. Just discovered the 12-volt feed to the switch is missing. Probably a blown fuse somewhere but nowhere on any of the diagrams I have can I find what feeds the 12 volts. That's no big deal -- I can improvise a new feed if I have to. But on further investigation I found the plastic housing on the valve coil cracked (from overheating or just old age?) When I put battery power directly to the coil I get no click and no propane (yes, the tank is almost full.) The coil draws about a tenth of an amp -- I see the new Manchester tank valve on eBay has a coil rated 12 volts and 10 watts so this is almost a full amp. So my coil is most likely bad and I need to scrounge one up somewhere. Replacing the tank valve is problematic since the tank is full. Does anybody have a coil lying around they can part with? I could post a picture of my coil if needed. Thanks in advance!

Well now I have egg on the face. The coil is good even though the plastic housing is cracked. Problem was just a blown fuse. Checked the load side of the fuse holder before replacing fuse and it showed open circuit -- so far all good -- can now switch the propane on and off via the original installation. I was really getting worried about possible expense of emptying the tank and replacing the solenoid valve.