Unknown Fastener

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Minnichds

New member
Joined
Sep 11, 2022
Posts
4
Location
California
Hello.

I am currently installing a 48V solar inverter charger and was taking off the bottom apron/insulation on my trailer to run wires and found this unknown fastener holding the apron to the trailer frame. Does anyone know what this is called? I would like to reinstall like hardware but could always use tel screws I suppose.

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You can replace it with a metal or plastic grip cap from the roofing section at most any hardware. Used for nailing felt.
 
Is it possible that its some type of screw but with the threads all stripped off
How would you drive it? It's likely what Mark described, no plant worker is going to hammer drive a nail and there's no belt fed fastener like that for a screw gun. At any rate the OP can accomplish the same with a grip cap nail.
 
Those power shot nailers Mark mentioned are also made to shoot into steel. We had one at work that took .22 LR blanks to shoot a nail into an 8" I-beam. For lighter stuff it used .22 short or long blanks. If the gun was not square with the I-beam ricochets were a chance so we couldn't use it around people.
 
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They have sheet metal self tapping screws with a washer built into it, use that or a self tapping screw with a flat washer. Use the same hole your nail came out of.
 
Powder actuated fastener. Try drilling the frame - it might be tempered steel and you won't be ab to drill so they used the powder fastener.
Try drilling bed frame rail and you'll have the same problem.
 
My travel buddy's trailer has the coroplast held on with those. They are driven into the frame with a .22 caliber nail gun, which I find is insane to secure something on a trailer. Self threading or tek screws are the best bets. I cannot imagine how the engineers dreamed up this way of installing the coroplast. Great way to start cracks in the frame.

Charles
 
My travel buddy's trailer has the coroplast held on with those. They are driven into the frame with a .22 caliber nail gun, which I find is insane to secure something on a trailer. Self threading or tek screws are the best bets. I cannot imagine how the engineers dreamed up this way of installing the coroplast. Great way to start cracks in the frame.

Charles
And how do you remove them for maintenance like overhauling a tank drain valve. I think this is a cheap and quick way for factories to attach the belly and they don’t care about the future needs.
 
Right, this is all about speed and convenience in production, not service down the road. You encounter tempered steel in some vehicle frames but I would suspect for a trailer it's not, and in that case a shot nailer would be OK. I have one I've used to secure wood framing to concrete but didn't know they could be used for steel until I saw some contractors at work poking them into some steel channel. If you look up some of the specific nails ("pins") they will state if they're optimized for steel or concrete. Maybe they have a different taper or hardened tip or something.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
And how do you remove them for maintenance like overhauling a tank drain valve. I think this is a cheap and quick way for factories to attach the belly and they don’t care about the future needs.
Have them on my camper and you cannot get them out very easily, if at all. Had a slide actuator arm fail and had to cut the underbelly material to get access. Used zip ties and Eternabond to seal back up.
 
At least two of our rigs have had the same fasteners to secure the underbelly. Speed/expense is the only consideration when putting these things together.

About the drilling comments, I have successfully drilled a frame to install my SteadyFast stabilizer system so it can be done fairly easily.
 
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Our rig's underbelly coroplast came from the factory held by those fasteners. 1-inch Tek screws are far more easily replaced. I re-use the original washers.
How did you get the original fasteners out, and could you remove them without damaging the coroplast?
 
Twist with a vise-grip to loosen the fastener, then a short pry-bar will lever it the rest of the way out. It's not a fun job; grunts and curses play a big part.
Coroplast is tough stuff. It may have crushed here and there but didn't tear.
 
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