Using a Harbor Freight Meter to Check Doorbell Wire Continuity

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Original Member Title: Voltmeter question for you electrical experts
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A member wanted to use a Harbor Freight multimeter to check continuity on house bell wire for a doorbell and Ring doorbell setup, but was unsure which dial setting to use. Members consistently pointed him to the resistance/ohms settings, especially the lowest 200 ohm scale, explaining that a reading of “1” indicates an open circuit or infinite resistance, while a very low reading when the probes touch indicates continuity plus test-lead resistance.

After the meter showed 2.8 ohms with the...
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That seemed a little on the high side to me, but I wasn't sure on such a cheap meter.

I now have the same model in my hand. It has a new 9V battery.

I go to the 200 ohm scale (pointer straight down, the dot pointing at the yellow off /on switch) and I short out my test leads, tight together, for ten seconds to let the reading settle.

The reading I get is "00.4" which seems much more reasonable that your 2.8 ohms. When I remove the leads, it shows as "1 ." .

The "00.4" is the resistance of the test leads, 0.4 ohm.

Anyway, try again, short the leads tightly together for at least ten seconds on the 200 ohm scale and see what your readng is.

-Don- Reno, NV
I changed out the battery because I thought the old one was weak. With a new battery and the dial set at 200 the reading is 42.5. When I separate the leads it goes to 1. Maybe it’s time to junk my meter
 
I changed out the battery because I thought the old one was weak. With a new battery and the dial set at 200 the reading is 42.5. When I separate the leads it goes to 1. Maybe it’s time to junk my meter
Something is wrong. Those meters are junk, I own more broken ones than working ones. Test leads break, cannot be replaced as well as many other issues.

HFT does sell some decent cheap VOMs. I suggest buying one like this. Then forget about ohms. Just set it for SOUND and then check your wires. The sound selection is just above the "10mf" position.

Note it says "Audible Continuity". That is all you need to test wires.

-Don- Reno, NV
 
Testing bell wire is fairly straightforward, did your door bell stop working or are you trying to connect a Ring door bell?
 
Something is wrong. Those meters are junk, I own more broken ones than working ones. Test leads break, cannot be replaced as well as many other issues.
Yes test leads break



And
 
Depending on which model of ring door bell you have, it will not "ring" the bell in your house. I bought one and had the same problem you do. It wouldn't ring the "bell" in the house. Some models will only work with one of their chime modules. Which model of door bell do you have.
 
I have the one with mini chime kit. I’ve installed ring button and the mini chime kit. My grandson is going to take it from here. He’s a techy type person, I’m not
 
And IIRC, the banana style used on HFT's cheap meter are NOT standard. They are smaller than the standard size so others will not work.

Or have you found test leads that work on the cheapest HFT meter?

-Don- Reno, NV

I've used them in my Fluke meter with alligator clips soldered to them. They work fine.
 
Well if you disconnect the wires at both ends and twist them together at one end, you should get continuity at the other end. Also, check the transformer,there should be approximately 16-24 volts AC give or take. You should also have the same, or very close voltage at the chime between the splice in the wire nut and the transformer screw inside the chime. Note that this is AC, do not use your DC setting or you will get an erroneous reading.

There are generally 2 runs of bell wire, one pair from the transformer to the chime and a second pair to the button. The button pair is generally spliced inside the chime box to one of the transformer leads and the other end connects to the appropriate screw for front/rear door. Some houses have a back door button as well but extremely rare in the last 40 years or so. Some newer houses have the transformer located in a recessed box directly behind the chime, but the wiring is the same.

Well there you have it, everything you always wanted to know about your door bell. Maybe you already knew this though, but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway.
 
My Ring doorbell rings our original chime, a Ring Chime, and my phone all at the same time! I have the chime kits all over the house and in the garage to boost the signal on all our Ring devices, I have the one in the TV room and garage set up to alert us to the doorbell as well.
 
Yes, the Fluke is stanadard on the banana plug side. The cheap HFT one is nonstandard.
I have two of those heap HFT ones One close enough to grab.. Standard banana plug on the meter (Well it's a right angle one but standard straight works just fine)

And I have repaired broken leads when the end "Disconnects" (Usually the probe end)

And given the cost of the meters... If the leads break.. Toss it and get a new one if you don't what to order new leads.
 
Yes, the Fluke is stanadard on the banana plug side. The cheap HFT one is nonstandard.
I use the HF ones on my Fluke. Never had a problem.
Also used the Fluke ones on the HF meter.
This way I don't have to keep changing the probe ends.
I put alligator clips on the HF leads.
I've had two HF meters die, but kept the leads.
 
I think I have a Fluke around here somewhere. I will have to check mine to see if the leads fit my cheap HFT meters.

-Don- Reno, NV
 

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