Driving a 2016 E-450 withV-10 Triton engine. Have around 13000 miles on it. Have been noticing a rattling/almost knocking sound when traveling at around 60 mph. Doesn?t loose power and goes away at around 65 mph. Sometimes happens at around 30 mph, but not all the time. Told certified ford service tech about it and he said it?s normal in the V-10 Triton. I hav e not found many other comments about it. Anyone else experience something similar.
V-10 engine rattling noise
- Thread starter twadleigh
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Lou Schneider
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Try running a tank of premium gas. It's probably just pre-ignition (engine knock) and if it goes away with the premium gas there's nothing to worry about and you can go back to using regular.
Engines are most efficient when they're right on the edge of knocking so modern engines use sensors and variable spark timing to keep them there. An occasional, slight pre-ignition knock is nothing to worry about, it only causes damage if it becomes heavy and continuous.
Engines are most efficient when they're right on the edge of knocking so modern engines use sensors and variable spark timing to keep them there. An occasional, slight pre-ignition knock is nothing to worry about, it only causes damage if it becomes heavy and continuous.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I second what LOU said.. And add two more things
1: It might be something ELSE... (Low probability but hey. IT might be)
On facebook I see adds for assorted "Fix your car" Devices.. Also on TV and in print. Most of these are OBDII to Bluetooth adapters.. I have 2 of 'em one in car one in Motor home.
ON my Android devices is an app called TORQUE that links to the OBDII adapters and lets me view every sensor, Error code, and such on the engine.
Ignition timing (Advance)
Vacuum
Load sensors
RPM
Fuel Economy
IT will show both vehicle speed as measured by teh sensor and GPS speed as measured by the 'droid (If it has GPS)
Acceleration
And much much more.
IF there is an ERROR code it will read it (Literally it reads it to me "Error Pxxx No Activity O2 Sensor 1 Bank 1" for example also loggs it for the mechanic
And it will CLEAR error codes (But keeps 'em logged) turning off the check engine light if the code was one that fixed itself (Some do) had that work.... once.
NOTE there are several competing apps for the phone. Apps for IOS devices and widders (Windows) and more TORQUE is the one I use... Not recommending any specific app.
NOTE 2: NOT all OBDII adapters will work.. Some do Some do not. TORQUE warns about a "Cheap E-Bay Adapter" says it will not work.> The show a photo of it.. The photo sure looks like what works for me.
That said. I sure shortens trips to the shop.
1: It might be something ELSE... (Low probability but hey. IT might be)
On facebook I see adds for assorted "Fix your car" Devices.. Also on TV and in print. Most of these are OBDII to Bluetooth adapters.. I have 2 of 'em one in car one in Motor home.
ON my Android devices is an app called TORQUE that links to the OBDII adapters and lets me view every sensor, Error code, and such on the engine.
Ignition timing (Advance)
Vacuum
Load sensors
RPM
Fuel Economy
IT will show both vehicle speed as measured by teh sensor and GPS speed as measured by the 'droid (If it has GPS)
Acceleration
And much much more.
IF there is an ERROR code it will read it (Literally it reads it to me "Error Pxxx No Activity O2 Sensor 1 Bank 1" for example also loggs it for the mechanic
And it will CLEAR error codes (But keeps 'em logged) turning off the check engine light if the code was one that fixed itself (Some do) had that work.... once.
NOTE there are several competing apps for the phone. Apps for IOS devices and widders (Windows) and more TORQUE is the one I use... Not recommending any specific app.
NOTE 2: NOT all OBDII adapters will work.. Some do Some do not. TORQUE warns about a "Cheap E-Bay Adapter" says it will not work.> The show a photo of it.. The photo sure looks like what works for me.
That said. I sure shortens trips to the shop.
Old_Crow
Well-known member
John, did you upgrade to the paid Torque app? If so, what did you gain over the freebie?
S
sightseers
Guest
That's the sound of cheap gas.
it's called pre-ignition and it's not a good thing on your engine.
either let up on the gas pedal...... or start buying higher octane gas
it's called pre-ignition and it's not a good thing on your engine.
either let up on the gas pedal...... or start buying higher octane gas
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Old_Crow said:
yes and a few more sensors I am able to read that I could not with the Free app.. Frankly I did the upgrade a long time ago (like 2015) so I am not sure what I gained any more other than a few sensors.
Koodog
Well-known member
John From Detroit said:
X2.
Great device to have. I've done the same.
I think my OBDII device was like $15 and TORQUE app was $5.
Money well spent.
I have the app loaded on a 7" Kindle Fire which I keep on the dash to monitor MH and also use kindle as a gps device.
Very easy to move between vehicles.
Old_Crow
Well-known member
John From Detroit said:
Okay, maybe I'll stop being such a cheapskate. Overall, I like the free app, but as a retired service tech, I know there's so much more available that the free app won't read.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Well Crow. You can read the documentation on line and see if the added sensors are worth it.. I think they list the differences.. Somewhere.
Old_Crow
Well-known member
I hear you. I'll figure it out one of these days.
I'm finding I don't have as much time to play on the 'net as I used to. Who knew managing 18 campgrounds would be more work than hosting at just one? Managing a bunch of old, retired, set-in-their-ways people is turning out to be really similar to herding cats. My 5 boys didn't talk back as much as some of these "adults".
I'm finding I don't have as much time to play on the 'net as I used to. Who knew managing 18 campgrounds would be more work than hosting at just one? Managing a bunch of old, retired, set-in-their-ways people is turning out to be really similar to herding cats. My 5 boys didn't talk back as much as some of these "adults".
Willandgiselarv
Well-known member
Kindle doesn't have a true gps, just beware.
Most likely caused by bad/inferior gas or timing. Switch gas stations because some owners knowingly buy inferior gas. Modern engines rarely need higher octane unless the computer is not able to adjust the timing properly. Valve/bearing rattle can also be caused by the oil. If the engine is running too hot the oil thins out and can't support the hydraulic valve pressure. Or if your oil is old and broken down or not the right viscosity or quality. Oil passage ways or the filter could be constricted by sludge or blockage. Could be the wrong oil filter or the filter is too restrictive. Not likely at 13K miles but the oil pump is failing or there is leakage around its gasket.
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I didn?t have a rattling sound nor any abnormal sound on mine. Going up hill as normal engine turning 4500 rpm and on other side at 2500 check engine light started flashing. When rpm increased light would stop flashing. Did this couple of times than a loud rush of air. No bang no clunk just a dead engine. This happened April 26 2019. Home is still broke as ford decides what to do. They have said that the number 5 piston is in the oil pan. I know I?m out in the middle of Montana but they should be able to do a better job of fixing my home. They say it will take another month to fix. I find this totally unacceptable. I?m calling ford on Monday to ask why. I have a 2015 chassis with a 2016 Georgetown sitting on it with 25500 miles.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Once I made arrangement to fix my Engine (Replace in other words) it was at least a couple (i think 3) months I stayed at the shop.. Now I had a good shop. I got to stay there in the rv while we removed and replaced the engine... Turned out to be a bit easier than anticipated by many other mechanics but the guy I had ... Well you talk to him you get the impression (False) that he's a bit slow.. Slow like a Rocket he is. Sharp as a tac and absolutely knows his business.
twadleigh said:
I am having the same issue! Ford only allows you to use regular unleaded for the Ford V10. Ford uses a knock sensor that reads the engine and adjust the timing. Warranty is voided if you use anything but regular unleaded. At 55-60 mph when traveling on a flat road I don't have the noise but when I hit a hill or have to pass the noise returns. Engine performance is not hindered. Has anyone had this diagnosed?
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Old_Crow said:
yes I did and more sensors is what you get. Also it has been a while so I have the ability to store multiple vehicles. Do not know if ther FREE one can do both car and MH.
As it happens I don't use it that often. only when I feel the need.
8Muddypaws
Well-known member
Intake manifold leak. Get a squirt bottle of water, even a squirt gun, and squirt the joining surfaces of every gasket on the intake system. If the idle changes at any time you've found a leak.
wae
Well-known member
sandersd said:
I'm curious what you mean by regular unleaded. If, by that, you mean 87 octane then the 2017 E-series owners manual actually calls for a minimum of 87 octane but a recommendation of 91. The 2016 F53 owners manual says the same thing. In 2000, they specify 87 octane, but (a) you're way out of warranty on anything older than a 2016 by now and (b) I would be interested to see any case where they successfully defended against a warranty claim where the owner used a higher octane fuel than was recommended. Lower octane - absolutely a problem, but you're not going to cause any problems at all with a higher octane fuel.
What year engine and what chassis are we talking about here? Earlier motors were prone to having spark plugs loosen up due to aluminum heads with only a couple threads for the plugs. A plug that's getting loose sounds *exactly* like lifter (or in the case of a pushrod engine, rocker arm) tick. One of the things that all the Triton motors are somewhat famous for are the exhaust manifold studs breaking. When that happens you get an exhaust leak and that will almost always sound just like rod knock. It's a good way to get a cheap truck if you don't mind spending hours screwing around with extracting the old studs! In my own experience it doesn't seem quite as common on the 10s as the 8s, but that might just be a sample size problem.
Personally, I would go up to a 91 or 93 octane fuel and see if that cures the problem. If you wanted to get sciencey about it, you could pull and log the live OBDII data and watch the spark advance to see if it retards when you're hearing the noise. It's not a perfect test because knock sensors can get fooled, but my guess is that you would see it pull timing a bit until the clattering stopped and then it would advance it back out.
Or you can run it real low this one time and then fill it up with 93 and see what happens. If the noise is gone, there's your problem. If not, my money would be on either exhaust studs or a loose plug.
Larry N.
Well-known member
Many of us grew up in the days of leaded gasoline when the choice at the pump was Regular or Ethyl (HiTest), before the days of unleaded, etc. So regular unleaded will be the lowest octane choice, usually 87 at lower altitudes, and 85 in higher places such as Colorado and Wyoming.
