Waste water valve leaking

[twukker]

We've got a Grand Junction 35TMS that the black water waste valve has started leaking. I really don't want to pay over $100 an hour for the local dealer to fix it, so I'm hoping I can get some help. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so ability isn't my fear. The problems that I am running into is that I haven't done anything on an RV before. It looks to me like I will have to remove the stuff on the belly of our rig to get to the offending valve. Does anyone know if I will have to remove all of it, just a small portion, etc? After that, what is the best way to get to the valve and remove it? It looks to me like the valves have a cable attached to the handle, but I'm not sure how long they are, or if I will even be able to find a replacement for it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Frizlefrak]

Not sure I'm understanding....a waste valve is just 4 bolts and it's out.  Can you post a pic of what you're up against?

 

[twukker]

That is exactly my problem too! I haven't done anything with it, cuz I want to have an idea what I'm up against before I tear into it. The handles to dump the tanks are on the side, inside the compartment where the water hookups are, but they feel kind of flimsy, like they are a cable pull, rather than the slide in/out valves that I've seen when I've looked at getting a replacement valve. I've never had the bottom cover off  of the trailer, so I don't even have an idea of where the tanks and valves are

 

[tvman44]

On our 5er the belly liner is in 3 or 4 pieces, just remove the one under your valve.

 

[Jeff Brown]

In this case a picture is worth far more than a thousand words.  Post some photos of what you can see before you dig in and we can help a bit better.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Like my RV did the same thing. All I did was drop the belly cover under the valve and removed the 4 bolts and nuts and pulled the valve. Now I replace one valve thinking that was the issue. Come to find out it easier to replace the o-ring seals. Because I had the other grey water valve leak then. So this time I pull the 2 seals out clean them in hot soapy water and re-installed no leak. So replacement is not always required but maybe a fresh set of seals will help or cleaning the seals up.

 

[Foto-n-T]

If you're lucky there's an access panel covering the valve itself, if not you'll have to at least partially pull the belly pan.  In that case I would recommend dropping the belly pan and locating the valve then cutting your own access panel to make it easier to get to.

Now...if this is on a grey tank that has it's own line that doe's not coincide with a black tank you "could" put a bayonet type blade valve on the end.  I did this on my galley tank a couple of years ago simply because I didn't want to lay in the fire ants to change it, it's still there and I love it.

 

[Frizlefrak]

simply because I didn't want to lay in the fire ants to change it, it's still there and I love it.

Joe....I can't imagine why not  LOL 

 

[Foto-n-T]

Those little buggers (fire ants) could be used as a weapon of war. Yesterday my wife asked me to plant a couple of her small flamingos of the side of our patio slab since we're set up to stay until spring. In doing so I managed to stand on a small nest in just about the only spot that I hadn't spread boric acid ant bait. My left foot is now so swollen I can't even wear flip flops!! I guess I was too busy watching for rattlesnakes that I missed that little ant hill, lesson learned I hope. I love Texas but ya'll have some critters down here that us northerners aren't used to looking for. My training will continue.